NovaPath

I saw those on the other thread, but unfortunately he isn't selling them yet. Yeah I'm not looking for anything fancy, doesn't even have to be shiny, just needs to be strong enough to treat like a rock slider

I think he meant even if the engine was seized it would still be a bargain. If that thing runs and drives halfway correct jump on it. Run over there now with the money.

Went ahead and purchased the poly bushings for the upper mounts, and I think I'm going to have new heavy duty lower rods fabricated locally. Oddly enough I think my upper bushings are shot and the lowers are okay, just have bent arms...Regardless I don't see myself slowing down with wheeling it so might as well make the investment now...

Bad idea to use the nail as a recovery point?

man..I'm going to have to take a picture of this thing just so you guys don't think I'm crazy aren't I? lol. I swear there is a nail welded to this stupid fin bracket on mine, as well as a mystery rubber pad. I can't find it in any of the pictures online, but it is definitely there on mine.\ Safe to say that fin bracket does next to nothing?

It is the fin like brace. Mine has a nail welded to the rubber block....lol mine definitely did not protect a thing and ended up smushed and mangled.

does anyone know what the bracket that sticks off of the lower trailing arms is for? This is the one that hangs down, has a rubber block with something that looks like a nail welded to it. I'd like to cut it off of the new ones I get so I can better reinforce them... Thanks!

If you get it from a reputable yard you can pull the Carfax and get a good idea. I used to sell used lkq engines at Toyota as an alternative when a customer had a blown one, only had one bad experience in 4 years and it was obvious before it was installed, so we were able to warranty it.

I've never had much luck with the sealer products, but maybe you will. I can definitely appreciate not being able to afford an unexpected large repair like that. Do yourself a favor, and start price shopping used engines though. Once the sealant has been put in it and run through it that engine won't be the same. If it works you will gum up the oil passages, if it doesn't you will continue to overheat it. Not what you want to hear I know but that is my thinking...

How was just the headgasket ruled out? Similar symptoms.

You may not want to hear this but at this point I'd consider putting it in a reputable shop. It sounds like you are now just tossing parts at it, which historically has a very low chance of success. If it isn't leaking coolant, but is loosing it at that rate, it must be going in the combustion chamber. Small amounts may not show up as white smoke yet. The amount you'd pay to have a shop diagnose it will be cheaper than continuing to throw parts at it. Good Luck, I hope you get it resolved!!

So I've got what sounds almost like a rubberized squeaking noise coming from the front left wheel. I have manual hubs, so it should not be the cv axle, and I have tested it with the hubs locked or unlocked and it makes no difference. The noise is speed dependent, but on one drive it may do it at speeds under 5mph, the next may do it from speeds from 10-30mph, and the next drive may do it not at all. It is definitely rotational though as the "frequency" of the squeak increases with speed. Also, the time of the drive determines how loud the squeak is, and at about the 30minute mark it becomes quiet but then starts squeaking louder once you are on the road past an hour. I've checked and replaced the brake pads with all proper anti squeal etc, and if I tap the breaks the noise still does not go away which leads me to believe it must be the bearing. I have checked the bearing for play, there is none. I have spun the wheel and the wheel seems to move smoothly with no binding. Short of just removing the caliper, and subsequent rotor and bearing assembly simply to repack and put together, does anyone have any easier suggestions to try? At this point I just don't want the wheel to pass me as I'm driving down the highway! Thanks in advance, -Ryan

So here is the question now, what would be stronger: 1. The rugged rocks offroad DOM links : https://ruggedrocksoffroad.com/hd-adjustable-lower-rear-suspension-links-nissan-pathfinder-1996-2004-by-rugged-rocks-p-3885.html?osCsid=64fk61qgt5ks4mbdlganbc6fp0 -Or- 2. Stock links with poly bushings and angle iron welded to the bottom? Price difference is going to be within 100.00, with the slightly cheaper one being the angle iron option... Thoughts?

Those are the problems I ran into in my head last night, too..ha ha. I was thinking about using multiple(like 6) and having the ubolts on the top with a slightly larger angle bracket with holes drilled...at any rate it doesn't matter too much work and I'm sure it would break. I'll look into the angle bracket and welding idea, though. Just have to find someone willing to weld them for me...

Interesting Idea! I was actually laying in bed last night wondering If I could do something similar but without the welding, and use some 1/4 inch thick angle iron and some U-bolts...

Fleury's: What is the price of those bad boys?

May or may not be useful, but check your skid plates. I had the most obnoxious noise that I could not figure out, similar actions would temporarily stop it, and it turned out my transfer skid was lightly touching.

Thats my thinking too Kyle, problem is I can't weld . Why are you thinking square as opposed to round, would square tubing be more resistant to bending? There is a fabricator that sponsor's my local club, I keep meaning to give him a call to ask him about this and just haven't done it yet..

So the fact that it rises at those temperatures rules out the viscous fan. There is a secondary thermostat on these vehicles as well that is a much bigger pain to get to. If you are overheating at load I would suspect the secondary T-stat. Other potential issues could be the water pump not flowing properly, collapsed radiator hoses, clogged radiator, or air in the system. Just noticed you are talking about a 2000, i'm not actually sure if they have the secondary thermostat so you may want to research that.

Ebay has a few listed for the 01 pathfinder, are you sure that your part # is correct? Are the other part #'s interchangeable?

Have fun!

So while underneath my truck today it appears I have bent not one but both of my rear trailing arms on rocks from one of my recent off road trips. A quick google search indicates that rugged rocks off road offers an HD option, but it seems a bit pricey for my current financial situation(broke). I'm wondering if anyone has retrofitted any other lower control arms into these rigs? In theory it is just a couple of bolts connecting a long piece of metal, as long as the length can be made the same it should be plug and play I would think. I'm not interested in going with new OEM equivalents as I'm sure within six months I will have managed to bend those up as well.. Thanks for the help! -Ryan

AK: Why do you need the rack and the pump?

Patrick, That turned out excellent my friend. I think if you fashion a gas shock to soften the opening especially on an incline/side angle, you will have a fool proof setup there. Great Job! Thanks for documenting this, I will be on the lookout for a spare from a junkyard now as well!

Haha, a backup camera may work, but chances are I wouldn't be looking at it when it happens anyways. I only tend to bump into things when wheeling. Many of the trails are pretty tight in the mid-atlantic. I have figured out that our rigs have a tighter turning radius than a JKU though, so that is a solid win! I agree, very nice job Patrick. Hopefully my questions did not take away from the fact I think this is awesome!