NovaPath

hmm, I see your point. It seems like an L bracket made of 1/4" steel would be plenty strong for the rear sway bar, if you drill a hole in each end of the "L" you could in theory use any adjustable swaybar link of your choosing. This seems to simple, am I missing anything?

These are the ones that I was referring to. http://www.amazon.com/JKS-2000-Replacement-Swaybar-Disconnect/dp/B005TTZ64M/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1430960420&sr=8-5&keywords=swaybar+disconnects

I've read that many people have done that with no ill effects, but for my own reasons that is not something that I feel comfortable doing. I sincerely appreciate the input, but every other thread that starts out like this one turns into a battle between those for and against sways, so for this conversation lets keep it solely to how to get some disconnects that work

Thanks, those are good points. I found some on amazon made for a front end of a TJ that are adjustable and look like they utilize the same setup as the rear of our cars, I wonder if they would work? With regard to keeping the sway bar in check, couldn't you only remove one of the sides? That in theory would make it useless but still attached enough not to bang around....

From the looks of it with a torn off lower control arm. I hope I'm missing something but those bolts look way too small to handle that type of load. Also, is there any cross bracing inside of the subframe drop? It is obvious the OP has much better fabrication skills than I do, so I would assume this has been thought of, hopefully the pictures are just painting a bad image. I definitely admire the ingenuity and originality of this post, but I would like to hear that it is actually safe as well.

resurrecting a thread from the dead here, but would any of the xterra rear ends with the electronic locker fit our pathfinders?

Does anyone have first hand experience with these? I'm not interested in totally removing the rear swaybar, but would like to have the option to have it disconnected for wheeling trips. They look like they are solid in the pictures, but I've heard conflicting things. My main concern is that you have to drill out the holes in the swaybar to make them fit, so if they are junk and you want to go back to stock you'd have to replace the rear sway afterwards... Thanks!

I like this idea Fleury's, I always forget that option. I have ordered some manual hubs so it's not like I need to worry about lifespan as they will hardly ever be used unless I'm off road.

No worries. Any input on brand of axles to buy? Reman vs new?

Thanks Fleurys, but why would that show up immediately after the lift? The U joint angles haven't changed? Love the skid plate btw!

Thanks for the input guys. I've been thinking about it more, and I think it must have to be the CV joints. The front driveshaft, while symptoms are similar and certainly could be a culprit, did not change when I installed the lift. The angles of the cv joints, however, have changed considerably. I did double check all of the bolts and all is tight. Could it be the CV's binding?

So I engaged my 4wd today for the first time after my lift to pull out onto a slippery road, and noticed that I have picked up a pretty severe vibration above 30mph while on the gas, in 4wd. Logic tells me the only drive line mechanical change while in 4wd after the lift would be the cv angles, and I must have a bad cv. Anyone with experience on this? 4wd was perfectly smooth not more than 2 days before the lift; so I doubt it is a coincidence. Gotta be a cv axle right??

Post up the footage when you return!

Am: did you do anything with your rear brake line? I was able to install everything just fine without messing with it, but it seems like under severe flex particularly with the left wheel dropped it could be strained. For that reason alone I left the rear sway bar on still as that prevented too much droop. Oh yeah, I've got camber bolts in the top mounting point already, so I'm hoping they can straighten it all up for me. Thanks again

Looks like one of those "best guess" reprograming services. Will probably do the basic "chip" stuff like raise the rev limiter, make the throttle more touch(if drive by wire), and possibly toggle with the shift points if it is an automatic. The general consensus that i've come to after researching these is while they are better than nothing if you have intake/exhaust etc, they are far from a proper tune(I.E. custom dyno tune). Those things being said, I have done absolutely 0 research on that particular one other than clicking the link just now.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/138822-R50-Pathfinder-Progression-Trip-Thread Rather than cross posting between forums and hijacking your thread further, I thought i'd just clip the link to my build/trip thread over on expedition portal. Long story short, it went about as well as could be expected and the lift is on. Has HORRIBLE positive camber currently but i'm hoping that will get resolved tomorrow with the alignment. My measurements have me clearing with the roof racks on by about 3/4-1", but I may remove them just to be safe for my drive to work on monday and then can measure from the top of the car to the concrete bar. It is surprisingly difficult to measure a car's height!

Yeah I'll be wearing gloves 3 shirts and a ski mask haha. I too have a fairly heavy sub in the back as well as an additionally 50lbs of safety gear so I imagine we are similar. Also I sourced the springs used so the initial break in period should be over I hope(in other words they should already have sagged to their specd height).

No worries. I'd love to be able to install this in a garage, as it stands I will be installing in front of my townhouse in 20-25 degree weather. Yay.

Yeah but I'm not doing that every day! That would get very old...I think it will clear based on the stock height specs, my calculations, and based off the info that ak has given. The question will be whether or not the rack has to come off.

Thanks AK. So your tire diameter is almost 33 inches (like 32.7 or so), and mine are 30.5 Inches. So if I divide that difference by 2, and subtract it from your higher estimate of 6' 2.75", I should have an inch to spare if I leave the racks on. My doesn't haves rear spoiler either so if I remove the racks I should clear by 3" or more. I think it's safe enough to roll the dice on, although it would really suck to have to pull it back off!

Thanks AK. So your tire diameter is almost 33 inches (like 32.7 or so), and mine are 30.5 Inches. So if I divide that difference by 2, and subtract it from your higher estimate of 6' 2.75", I should have an inch to spare if I leave the racks on. My doesn't haves rear spoiler either so if I remove the racks I should clear by 3" or more. I think it's safe enough to roll the dice on, although it would really suck to have to pull it back off!

Currently sitting on almost 31's, so unless my math is failing if I remove the roof rails I should have a couple inches to spare, sound right?

Ak: did you have a chance to measure how tall the rig is yet? I'm going to be installing mine this weekend and am being paranoid it won't fit into my garage at work when i'm done!

Ok great thanks. If it is just a tick over six feet that'd be perfect. Just making sure mine will clear my 6'3 height for the garage at work when I'm done

Ok great thanks. If it is just a tick over six feet that'd be perfect. Just making sure mine will clear my 6'3 height for the garage at work when I'm done