NovaPath

Thanks for the ideas fleurys, I think I will do something very similar. As far as the hot air vs cold air debate, that really only matters up until about 15-20mph, after that it is all the same or at least very similar. At any rate, i'm not worried about dealing with hot air off idle in this thing, it's not a rocket 0-60 regardless and never will be, I'd rather have the level of comfort that I will be able to drive home under my own power(even if it is slightly reduced!)

In looking at my air filter tonight, I saw a good bit of dried mud down in the bottom of the filter box. This tells me I've been playing on the edge a bit too much. It seems like I can simply plug the hole at the bottom, and drill a large circular hole into the air box top prior to the filter which would basically prevent hydro lock unless I decided to submerge up past my headlights. That being said, this seems to easy, and someone would have already had a DIY for this. What am I missing? Thanks,

01 Pathfinder, the center muffler is all sorts of dented from being treated as as rock slider, and then after my last wheeling trip the rear section finally fell off(rear bumper is not far behind....) Anyone else destroy their exhaust off roading? What did you do to fix it? This is not a high class vehicle any longer, and is more a daily driver/trail mule. I am just tired of the "tick tick tick" exhaust noise. Thanks,

That is better than what I get. 16l per 100 kilometers is roughtly equal to 14.9mpg for us state side folks. I average about 12.5 mpg/18.5 l per 100 k. I have manual hubs, but do have a 2" lift and 31" tires.

No timing belt on this one. My long term plan is to join the dark side with a jku Willys, but if I can keep this thing tickin for the next year or so it would help considerably. I said crystal balls welcome! Lol.

Thanks for the replies. To be perfectly honest I don't see myself fixing it, mainly just wondering how long before it becomes a debilitating issue. I'll try some high mileage oil next change. So far I only notice it when I start it after it has been sitting a few hours. Odd thing is I haven't seen it after it sits all night, but it could just be because it is early am and dark out.

01 pathfinder-160k miles, of which the past 40k have been very hard miles. Noticed the other day when it starts after sitting for a few hours it is blowing blue smoke out the exhaust. I know this means internal engine problems/excessive wear, I'm just wondering how long you guys think I have before this thing is on its last leg? Crystal balls welcome.... Thanks

When in 4wd it will not turn as sharp, and if on pavement it will seem like it is binding and the front is skipping during turns. This doesn't indicate a locking front diff, it just indicates that it is in 4wd. It is a very rare modification on these, and only done by those who *really* wheel them. I'd put $$ on it yours doesn't have one.

Nice looking Q! Fair warning when you wheel it a bit if those fogs are anything like the ones on the pathfinder they will end up very cracked. If you care about the way it looks I'd recommend you remove them before doing any mudding or serious wheeling. Also, I didn't realize that there was ever an option for a factory from locker, can you elaborate? Good luck with the build

is it possible the Smoke you are seeing is electrical? Odd that the starter makes a weird noise before you see it. Engine issues, unless really major, will normally cause smoke out the tailpipe not externally from the engine under the hood. Check your starter wiring and look for any burnt marks.

Mine does it too, I'm not going to lose any sleep over it. The oil pump needs RPM to spin the oil pump to create sufficient flow. That light is basically a flow meter/dummy light, if the car is on and there is not enough flow it will illuminate(just like before you start it). Unless it does it while idling regularly I wouldn't sweat it.

if you bought warn, you don't even need to lift the truck or take off the wheel. Super easy 15 minutes install...

Right you are. That and the D44 really isn't an upgrade in strength over the H233b. I haven't heard or seen of a single instance of someone snapping a rear driveshaft on one of these rigs, even locked on 35's.

Just finished a 14 hour drive from Virginia to Florida. As a whole the truck performed great, but I did notice something that I had not before. After pumping gas, or running into a store, when I would start the truck it would misfire a bit. Revving it up solved the problem immediately and it ran smooth from then out. In running around town, it did not do it, until I drove for another couple hours to really heat everything up. It behaves very similar to a 4.0 XJ that has the fuel vapor issue, except less severe. I don't think it is running hot although I do only have the stupid on/off temperature Guage from the factory, so I have no idea what Temps it is actually running.... No CEL except for the passenger side 02 heater circuit that came on approximately one week after I fixed the drivers side. I swear this truck is a tank but I need to pull out the damn CEL bulb, fix once thing and then something else triggers it.... Thanks in Advance! Now FLpath.

is this the gauge you are using? https://ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/ultragauge_wired.htm?gclid=CN_Vyt_Et8sCFRY8gQod5icDuQ

This is exactly why I don't like these stupid buffered gauges. If it weren't for your diligence with an aftermarket temperature monitor, you would have never known there was an actual problem until you were on the side of the road. They might as well get rid of the gauge and just replace it with an idiot light....after all that is how they function. -rant over-

I went with Raybestos professional grade about a year ago-no complaints. They have seen some hard wheeling, and been bombed down fire roads at 20mph or more. I've only had them for a year, but they have been put through their paces(including daily commute into DC and around the city every day). My truck has lots of stuff that is wrong, but the strut mounts arent one of them currently!

If he wheels it that brush guard is useless and will create more problems. Ask the two dents on my quarter panel and the big gash in my front bumper if you want backup....I think it was a smart move to remove it. edit: Ditch those step bars for a visual 2" lift instantly.

Why did you add the louvers? Were you having heat issues while crawling? Love the interior light setup. With all this time spent on the pathy, I'll bet the poor S4 is getting jealous. I've always felt strongly towards those, kind of like having a crush on the crazy pyscho, but incredibly hot girl in high school. Fun for a night, but she will eat you alive if you try to stick with her

I accepted a promotion to relocate back to Florida, and just wondering if you any of you guys had been wheeling down there. I know there is hard rock in Ocala, as well as a place about an hour south of Sarasota on the gulf side. I know the wheeling will not be any where as good as it is where I am now in the mid atlantic, but I'm hoping that there is something to help melt the stress away. Thanks, Soon to be FloridaPath.

Your mechanic is right. The vibration will lessen over time as the springs settle, but the CVS are operating at extreme angles. Get some manual hubs and call it a day, that's what I did. I've beat the living snot out of my rig in 4wd low and haven't snapped an axle yet, even with one wheel air born at full droop in reverse and suddenly catching traction(although admittedly, I thought I was going to blow something!) You could try replacing the axles with some used factory units(are yours aftermarket?), but that may or may not help. Mine has settled considerably over the past year that i've had the lift on, but it is still noticeable if you are gunning it and get up to over 20mph.

Install is no different than the ome kits, they are all springs. Easiest to install is Fleurys, great quality product but I chose to use springs as mine were already wore out, instead of spacers.

4x4parts.com automotive customizers lift. It is what I run, the strut top out issue is way overblown.

Wow! Never intended for my comment to cause such a raucous! That being said, never use a hitch ball as a recovery point for the reasons above. I have a D-Ring receiver that plugs in that I use, and I've also used the front tie down points many times with good success. The point is to do it as safe as possible, I use properly rated nylon straps(not chains) and always have a weight in the middle. Also, whenever possible we do not "snatch" we pull slight tension on the strap before trying to pull the vehicle out. In the end it comes down to knowing your equipment, knowing your vehicle, and having common sense. I do stand by my comment though, without an aftermarket rear bumper, on the R50, a hitch is the ONLY quasi safe place to recover from. I used it along with my D-ring receiver to pull a large box truck out of a snow bank during the blizzard of 2016 here recently, even. There appear to be only a handful of people on this forum that really push these R50's, and I think it is safe to put myself into that category. I've personally had solid luck with the front tie downs and the hitch as a recovery point.

Without a hitch you have no rear recovery point. This is a unibody truck so unlikely a hitch would cause you any problems, I'd personally put that back on. In my opinion armor before lift. I did it the opposite and regret it. A lift will allow you to get places you shouldn't be without under carriage protection. There are options for the front skid, I recommend Fleurys, but for the center 4x4 parts seems to be the only gig around.