NovaPath

You can give the universal weathertech's a role of the dice. Alternatively, have you hit up Nissan to see if they still offer the OEM version? I have them in mine and aside from the driver's which wore out the rest are amazing. Last resort we picked up some goodyear brand from sam's club for the wife's odyssey last year, and they seem to be holding up great, cut to fit style.

I just ran a zip tie around the bolt/spacer on each side of the shock to keep it from moving fore/aft in between the upper mount. If the two outer "I" are the sides of the mount, and the II is the shock/grommet, I ran a zip tie around the = Not sure if that makes sense. Basement flooded and I got into the blizzard supplies a bit early to make me not care as much I=II=I II II

Pleased to report, the problem has been fixed. I went to Lowes tonight and bough the appropriate sized washers. I set to work in the parking lot after getting my tool kit out, and promptly pulled the bag of industrial grade zip ties out. From there, i ran a zip tie around each side of the shock. A test drive says this is fixed-permanently. And, if i'm wrong and the zip ties fail(can't possibly happen...), then when I stop being lazy I have the correct sized washers. In my defense, it is flippin cold out, and there is a blizzard coming. I had to make it to the liquor store as well, a man's gotta have priorities. Thanks for the help! In all seriousness even though this is obviously temporary I did it simply to confirm before dismantling. I will most likely wait until they inevitably fail before I install the washers, but for now it is so nice to drive a quiet truck again!

Thanks! Sounds like some washers on both sides of the shock should fix me right up

I can't remember what they looked like when I swapped out the OEM for the bilsteins. Should the upper shock be pinched tight in between the mount? Mine can move front and back about 1/2", and i've been chasing a rattle lately that sounds like it is coming from that area exactly. Thinking about just adding some washers and tightening it down, but unsure if it is supposed to be able to float fore and aft.... Thanks!

Ah! Yes the rear is drum brakes and uses shoes. It would not be a bad idea to open them up to inspect the wheel cylinders and clean out all the dust, but a quick visual is all that is needed on the shoes themselves. No need to replace unless worn or grease soaked(and then you have another problem!)

When was the last time the timing belt was changed? I have the 3.5, but as I recall the 3.3 is an interference engine. As far as brake pads, a simple visual inspection should be fine on those. If there is meat left, let it roll, if not, replace. I'm not sure what the reference to bands means though so perhaps I'm missing the point... I agree with CDN on the suspension, and while you are at it might as well lift it! Get some new shocks, struts, strut tops, sway bar links, shocks, and trailing arms and be done with it. The way these trucks drive when the suspension is tight is pretty awesome, you will be surprised. Good Luck!

Looking good! Although I'm not too happy about you stealing the same name that I call my old girl, but regardless . It is fun to see more and more of these trucks being modified and wheeled. I'm hoping, perhaps dillusionally, that this interest will start to drive the aftermarket world to support the similar to the WD-21 chassis. That being said, for now it is slim pickings on aftermarket support! What did you use to paint it? Mine is so pinstriped and dented that I'm about to just roll on bedliner the thing once I get a dedicated daily driver.

Can anyone tell me on the OEM sensor(post cat 02) what color is ground, heater, signal, and power? My amazing denso find on amazon for 35.00 turned out to be a universal with no instructions...joy.... Thanks!!

The old girl threw me a bone today in the form of a p0305 code. I've ordered the coil and will be installing tomorrow, hopefully that fixes it. It is a 80.00 gamble but I can't keep driving the thing like this...

Based on that, it also seems plausible that the code for the intake timing solenoid could in fact cause a misfire as well then right? I already have that part, just need to install. That code has been around for over 6 months, though......

It does right? I'm not planning on removing it, just cutting both of the "y" pipes and allowing the exhaust to settle back forward an inch or two. Will then be patching it back together where I took it apart.

Thanks for the response! I will take a look at that on Saturday. I've got the other two parts now so at least while i'm at this I can get the CEL fixed finally. If I don't see anything, I think i'm going to buy 3 coil packs(can be found for 30.00 each), and swap one bank of cylinders, if that doesn't solve it I will then take the original ones and swap the other side. Also, I forget what kind of plugs I bought when I swapped them 10k miles ago. Are these engines incredibly sensitive to a certain type of plug? I doubt I splurged on the "good stuff" Thanks!

On my last trip to Rausch Creek I managed to put a massive dent in my mid pipe muffler and in the process pushed it rearward about 2" so that it is now hitting on my hitch nicely. I'm thinking about just taking a hack saw, and cutting both sections before the mid pipe and installing two new flex couplings and at the same time removing 2" of material so that the exhaust fits back where it should. Two questions: 1. Does anyone see a downside to doing this? 2. Does anyone know off hand the exhaust diameter? Thanks!

So my pathfinder has been very rarely missing at idle for a couple of weeks now. It started so infrequently that by the time I thought I felt it the time had passed and I'd forget about it for a week until I was at a stop light and the same thing happened....until today. Now it is misfiring multiple times in a row, for as long as 15 seconds at a time. Typically at idle, but it has happened under light acceleration and cruising at 2k RPM or so. Under heavy load such as WOT it runs just fine. Obviously, something has gone badly. I checked the trouble codes, and they are the same two that I've been riding with(I know, I'll take my lashings) which are a rear 02 sensor and the driver's side intake cam sensor code P1145. Neither of these will typically cause a misfire. I'm going to go ahead and replace the 02 and cam sensor so that I can rule those out, but suffice to say I am less than optimistic about those solving it. Any ideas? I'd think a coil would throw a misfire code and a vacuum leak would cause a lean code, the only thing I can think of is a fuel pump on the fritz, but under load at WOT it still runs great. Open to ideas!

that is an understatement.... I've seen people do it with cigarettes at the dealership I used to work at, old mechanics trick. I don't remember exactly how they did it though....

600rpm sounds low. Should be idling around 700-750rpm on a warm idle. I mimic what others said, they look fine to me. On my bmw when the mount blew I actually got an indent in the top of the hood pad from the power steering resevoir, as well as a racked radiator neck from the stress...that was fun. Any codes?

I can't answer the interference vs. not, but a quick Google search should be able to. Timing belts are far from a 10, but definitely not a 1 either. If I had to conjecture a guess on this one I'd call it a 6. Does the 3.3 not have any removable covers to see if the belt has gone? How many miles on the rig and is it the original belt?

Check your front brake lines were they clip into the strut housing. I noticed on my 01 that both sides have started deteriorating. The outer rubber sheath is peeling away leaving just the inner rubber to support the pressure of the line. A quick Google search indicates I can get these lines for less than 15.00 each, I will be placing an order tonight.

For the seats it will require some work but all they should need is a 12v power source. Wire one up with some relays and that's done. Memory and comfort exit are not worth the time and expense, bypass that.

CDN: you and I are on the same page, however the OP has stated that he just wants a lift for the look. That indicates that he won't be carrying the hundreds of pounds of gear, beer, food, beer, spare parts, beer, straps, beer, and recovery equipment that we carry.

Although i'd think along the same lines as you, you may actually need the threads grounded in order to witness a spark. Otherwise, it is only completing one part of the circuit.

CNAM: How does your rig do on rocks? how limiting do you find the IFS setup?

That's time to pull out the FSM and start digging, or take it to a trusted mechanic and break out the wallet. Do you have a spare key you can try to at least partially rule out it being a key chip problem?

I can't hear the video, possibly because I'm on my tablet, but if it is cranking normally just not starting then it won't be the battery. Cars require 3 things to run, air, fuel, and spark. Air is normally a no brainer, and you've already verified that you have fuel, that leaves spark. For something like this I could suspect a crankshaft position sensor, key chip fault(do you have a spare key you can try?) or other ECM related issue. I'm sorry I can't be much help as I have not troubleshooter a no start on mine past messing with my alarm system. Oh, that brings up a good point though, do you by any chance have an aftermarket remote start system? That can cause issues with the chip key if it malfunctions(that's what happened to mine).