CO_pathfinder

I've given up on this shop completely. I asked for several specific things to be done when they did the exhaust header back, and every single thing I asked for was ignored and later addressed by saying "I can't make that work without also spending xxxx on xxxx." It was too much of a hassle to get them to do anything so I'm just going to do it myself... It would be great if they hadn't side piped it under the trailing arm bracket because now the first rock I drive over is going to rip the whole thing off

Just gotta swap in a newer console

Resbum, thats a heck of a lot of work. You should be proud Cut gaskets for my warn hubs, and felt my feet get hot because my new exhaust has a leak Deciding whether I want to deal with it myself or if I want to take it back to the PITA shop that did it..

Hey, still has the stock tailpipe - more than I can say... mileage? Oh yea, WELCOME! What part of CO?

Anybody know where I can get/ how i can make some gaskets/seals for my manual hubs... the ones on the truck i pulled them from were toast, and I don't feel like adding more grease every 200 miles as it slowly leaks out on the highway

I crushed a Jeep once and won...

New tires, new shocks, new bushings, fresh alignment, new fluids all around, new e-brake cable and drum pads, repacked bearings. Spent so much money and so much time that I am now officially broke - and officially plan on not spending another nickle on parts for this truck ever again.

Got something like 15 driver-side injectors today from the JY @ 50cents a pop... not a bad deal. I'm going to let them soak in Seafoam to clean all of the old fuel and grease off; before I go removing my upper plenum again to replace them, is there any way to test them for quality/performance when they are outside of the truck?

Finally finally finally found a pair of 33 spline Warn Hubs. Made the mistake of buying some 32 spline's last year, and have been looking ever since. Super happy with them already, and have seen a 1-2 mpg boost over what I had been averaging for the 2 years that I've owned the truck.

Getting close to needing new tires - not what I wanted to find out, because new tires is going to require me to get the front end aligned, which is going to require brand new parts everywhere, or decent JY parts

floor mop

Got mad at myself for how poorly I've treated the truck since I bought him 2 years ago. Also, turned my A/C off so that I could beat a 4Runner at a red-light on ramp. Got my ass kicked.

Well, compression isn't the issue- checked 1-5, couldn't get the hose to reach 6 so eff it. New y-pipe back exhaust, spent good money on it and the shop let their monkey do it ....... the tailpipe is a side exit, but its angled slightly forward and so it whistles on the highway . Taking that back to the shop soon to make them redo it, but I'm still not super pleased about having to make it a side exit. Positive note: trucks runs noticeably better, but the misfire is still present - at this point, I'm going to blame it on leaking injectors. Junkyard trip next week to nab as many injectors as I can get my hands on, and then to play Frankenstein. In other news, new shocks are in the works, finally, but I am still going to have to wait to replace my front suspension components because of budget restrictions. My tires are only good for another 10k anyways, so I'll worry about tires/alignment issues in the Spring. Hopefully getting fresh fluids for everything too, but still waiting to hear back from my guy on what sort of pricing he can get me. At this point, I'm trying to restore dignity to the basics of my truck before I do any true upgrades or drop large $$.

oooohhhhhhhh!!!!

Road-house!

Its a WD21, there's only 1 O2 sensor... Starting with Slartibarfast, leaky injectors are certainly a possibility. Is there any way to test them without pulling the upper intake to get them out? Something noteworthy: the truck does not start in 1-2 crank revolutions like it used to. It now requires me to actually let my injectors prime fully before starting. Could my fuel pump be going out (it makes a high-pitched whining noise when the truck is running) I'll pull my cap off to take a picture of it for you guys, but as far as I could tell last week when I was doing the plug change, the cap looked to be in fine condition, apart from what looked like normal carbon buildup on all 6 posts.. A far as fouling, I dont remember it looking like there was any on the plugs when I pulled them, but then again I'm pretty new to working on cars myself, so I'll have my dad take an up-close picture of the plugs when he gets home so that I can share them with you guys (I'm back in my college town) If I end up taking it in for a compression test, I'll probably be going all the way and having them work on it until the problem goes away, but that's big $$$ so obviously last resort. I'll try to keep my driving to a minimum Adam, thanks for letting me know that.

OH! And just to brag, but my ABS works now

6 shooter

Does anybody else's fuel pump make an audible buzz when on? Heard only from outside of the truck in the back, but def audibles. Narrowed my misfire issue down to the left bank (cyl 246), in particular, cyl 6 and sometimes 2, which means that my issue is restricted to ignition, timing or fuel problems... makes me feel a little better, knowing exactly where my misfire is coming from now. Not super sure what my next step is, but hopefully money wont be involved

Adam, thats because you have a magic 95 that likes to play nice Upon using a laser thermometer, it seems like the misfires are only occurring on the left bank (cyl 2,4,6). This was found because the manifold temps for cyl 2 and 6 were 25*F lower than the other 4 cylinders. So, that narrows it down to timing, fuel, and ignition issues on cylinders 2 and 6. Brand new plugs, somewhat new wires... would rotating the distributor fix this issue easily, or is it going to be a money gremlin that requires me to replace wires and the ignition coil? Is a trip to the mechanic for a compression test in order potentially? Also, found out through a real CARFAX that my truck does indeed only have 91k original miles!!! Not too shabby for a truck built in 9/1990. Probably explains why it doesn't have power loss, even with 2 cylinders acting up. Anyways, any thoughts or inputs are always appreciated.

I have indeed - that place scares me though, its like a graveyard.

In any case, my idle isn't great either, so it can't hurt to check them as well

More updates, because why not, it is my thread after all! Fixed the stupid vac leak that sprung up - check all the connections that you've done yourself! Clip that holds one of the older vac lines in place wasn't in the right spot, and so the hose slipped a bit and was leaking around the edges. Replaced the CTS, didn't start the truck after doing so though, because my new O2 is coming in tomorrow, and I'm just going to replace that as well before starting the truck up. If neither of those fix the misfire, I'm going to start looking at the vacuum based valve systems, namely EGR, IACV, and PCV. Here's to!

ahahahaha the vac leak was because one of the clips on the hose with the 70* bend that comes out of the intake tubing wasn't clipped in place, and so air was leaking around the sides of the connection. All fixed! (covered by the blue rag in your video above) Replaced the CTS today, O2 sensor is arriving tomorrow. Gunna replace it when it shows up tomorrow - if it doesn't fix the misfire, I'm going to start messing with the EGR, IAC, and PCV. With high hopes that all goes well, I think I'll finally have time to redo some of my light and accessory wiring thats nesting beneath my center console. Happy early Easter to all; I hope the weather remains civil for all of you!

alley cat