mikestewart395

I got it! After taking one injector out of the circuit at a time I found the bad injector. I clipped one wire and it wouldn't start. I soldered it back on and it started. I clipped wire from second injector and engine started and ran exactly the same. So finally the mystery is solved. Bad bad bad injector. I will get that replaced pronto.

I got it! Sweet baby Jesus . I have a dead injector.

Yes, there is a rubber gasket there, I just looked at it. As a precaution I think I will use an RTV. I like the red stuff, it's heat rated to use on heads, so it should do the trick. I don't plan doing a submarine but like I said I have puddle jumped in known areas in the forest before, but had a butt puckering moment diving in and some jackaz with 44's had dug out the middle.

Sitting at work watching youtube, I see a lot of snorkeled vehicles going hood deep in the rivers, i was wonder about the air cleaner. My truck is old and even with the air cleaner bolted, clamped, and 2 fly nuts, it still wiggles a little. I'm not sure it would be water tight in a situation like that. A snorkel is in the near future, I'm not going hood deep, but I have crossed a couple of puddles that turned into an oh @#it moment. Anywho, should I use a liquid gasket to seal the cleaner basket to the throttle body? Getting the rest of the setup water tight is simple, but the cleaner kind of always seemed a weak link in the chain. Just wondering.

Oh my god, that is so ingenious , I'm going to do this. Could also add the other tools I only use in emergencies. Thanks for sharing.

Good idea. I have a soldering gun. Toiling with this for a couple weeks now. I'll get right on testing it tonight. I have troubleshot everything else. Now I will know if it is the injector for sure.

Anything below 1k the power is horrible. I have had it at around 800 before and just shifting through from stops and getting up to speed was sad.

Looked at it in discuss. It is falling apart and is becoming a money pit. The more I spend on parts the closer this thing is getting to going back on Craigslist.

I'm glad you asked this question as I plan on doing mine next weekend, 3" BL

7 marks like mine. Yes please chime back in with the results, as I am having the same exact issue.

LOL. My drive is at an angle, jack stands are scary there. Wheels chocked, only one wheel up at a time, that rim will stop a disaster. I got the drum off finally though. It took sever reapps of pen oil and about 20 min of hammering and a whole lot of curses.

I am full of questions today people. I have read to test which injector is bad you need to disconnect them one at a time. My injectors have a rubber boot on the top, peeling it back it looks like the wires are soldered on, and those wires run to one big connector that has a lot of wires hooked to it. I can't disconnect them one by one. If I were to buy them new(I will soon) how am I supposed to put the new wires on? Sounds silly I know. But in OHM testing I barely lifted the boot, I didn't want to tear it.

Oh Christ. It's one thing after another. I love previous owners. Love them!!! I'll just hard set it at 1k and leave THAT project for another day/month/year. Thanks for the info.

I want to go 12's basically because of my trail expeditions. A lot of sand and a lot of mud crossings.

Yea, the cab was flooded. I bought a ECM from Ebay . The last one was fried. Wouldn't start the engine.All connections since have been cleaned and Electric Greased.

With the issues I have been having with the Pathy not going over 3k rpm, I have been running through the whole list of things to check. This weekend I bought a new Light, clipped it on the #1 cylinder wire and proceeded to adjust the timing. My pulley has 7 marks on it. No numbers anywhere so I put a spot of white out on the middle mark and was going to adjust it to there. As you may know you twist the distributor to the right to get the mark to move to the right. Clockwise I should say. So twisted all the way to the right as far as it would go the engine was at about 500rpm idle but the mark was no where near the arrow. I mean it was about 2 inches or more to the left. I need some input as to what I am missing here.

What I meant was is the parts list readily available. The distributor it sounded like was in an experimental phase. In saying parts list I'm asking can I walk into an Auto Zone and order everything I would need? Sorry, I don't quite word things right sometimes. But I understand myself perfectly!!

Lol, I am lacking a puller as well. Every time something needs fixing it seems a Harbor Freight trip is in order. I did use Penetration oil. Guess I'll just beat the hell out of tomorrow.

I do not have a tap and die set

Oh man, grats on that!!! Watching videos of those little Samurai's is what bit me with the off-road bug. My buddy had a Geo Tracker years ago. Little thing was tough. Then I ran across my Pathy for 900 bucks. It served me well for a while. I woke up this morning and grabbed my tools to do my morning ritual of working on the Pathy and stopped. I think I am calling it quits. It's time to let it go to a younger more eager person. After I finish the brakes this week it is going on Craigslist. I simply don't have the energy anymore. So sitting at work now cruising the Craigslist ads for Trackers and Samurai's in the 2k range.

I oiled it, tapped it with hammer, mallet, then beat it, cursed it. It isn't budging. It spins freely so brakes aren't engaged. The 2 screw holes will not hold a bolt, threads are rusted and stripped. Am I missing a trick here? I have replaced shoes on drum brakes before, but this has me miffed. Also used a small torch to heat the center area , that trick didn't work either.

I have aftermarket rims, but my tire guy said I would need them. Putting a 12.50 on my current rims will make them balloon out an inch more on each side. Spacers I guess would be inner wall rub insurance. I think that was his thinking.

I'm going to move up from 31x10.50 to 33 12.50 My tire guy said I need spacers. I am curious as to how wide would be ideal. I like the 2 inch but I read somewhere there is a point where too wide would be murder on the bearings. I don't know. Along with this I am going to do a 3" Body Lift.

I believe it. A couple years ago I was with my Electric crew in TX working overnight rewiring a Target Store. Out back we had out Dually hooked to a trailer loaded with construction trash. Full view, I mean 20 feet from a surveillence camera, under spot lights. Came out the next morning,...gone. Police took the video, nothing was done. We rented a truck, bought a new trailer and had a new Kubota on the back. 3 days later, at 10am, same guys stole the whole setup. It's mindboggling the balls some people have.

OMG. On the way to work I figured out I am having this same problem. I posted about it but my Limp Mode problem was after I dunked it in the water a few months ago. After replacing the ECM it was always reading code 51, injector circuit. But today I noticed a pattern. I drive through the city on a 40 min commute . I noticed coming home it runs fine. Limp mode off, it will allow me to run at 60 mph and I can rpm it up to about 2800. On the way to work, I have a sharp u-turn then a min later its a slight incline over a waterway bridge. I noticed it ALWAYS starts limp mode after that sharp left u-turn, it will start stuttering and backfiring as soon as it hits 2200 rpm and won't go above it. As soon as I start a small climb up the bridge it really gets bad and won't go over about 38 mph. As soon as I start DOWN the bridge it levels out and after a couple min. I am able to hit 60 mph again and basically it runs fine, minus the issue I always had where it won't go past 3k rpm/65 mph. So I am very interested in what this turning /stall problem is. I was planning this past weekend to replace the injectors as the ECM was coding me about the. I had disconnected all connections under the hood, cleaned them and elect. greased them. Nothing was fixing the code/problem. It seems we are having the same problem.