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Everything posted by mikestewart395
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Has anyone Done a carb/TB exchange
mikestewart395 replied to mikestewart395's topic in General Forums
Is there an update to doing this build? I am all for doing this, but it would be nice to have an exact parts list to go shopping with. -
What I'm asking is has anyone here taken out their Tb and went to a carb setup? I read in another forum someone with a hardbody did it, putting on a holly 2 barrel . I would very much like to take all the comp. crap out and go back to a classic setup. Every time I turn around its a sensor or some crap giving me problems. When I was in school and in my early 20's it was old 60s Chevelles and Nova's. I would like to go back to the simplicity of it. Some people will argue about mpgs , but honestly, I'm getting about 14-15 now, could it get worse? I think not.
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Won't Go Over 40 MPH, getting frustrated
mikestewart395 replied to mikestewart395's topic in The Garage
Yea, wiring is something I don't want to chase down, hopefully its just a part. -
Won't Go Over 40 MPH, getting frustrated
mikestewart395 replied to mikestewart395's topic in The Garage
Thanks Slartibartfast. A few months back I took my Pathy swimming and after a 2 week dry out it was doing the 2800 rpm thing. Now it has gone to 2200. Something weird though, last night I electronic cleaner sprayed the maf connector, injector connections and cleaned one of the sensors that connects into the side of the tb. I don't have my book with me, I can't name the sensor ATM. When I turned the key it started fast, like I snapped my fingers and bam! No spinning mor a couple seconds then firing. Anyway, test drove it. It got to 65 mph, I was like hell yea ! Then it started loping again until I dropped it to 2200. It's was fun for about 10 seconds. Tomorrow is payday so I'll go to advanced and buy 2 new injectors. Only one is bad, but just like headlights, change one might as well change both, the other will fail too. -
Won't Go Over 40 MPH, getting frustrated
mikestewart395 replied to mikestewart395's topic in The Garage
Yea, that's what it's doing. If I actually hit 2500 it will start bogging down after a min until I slow to 2000. I use 2000 loosely, it is 2200. Update though. I just got home, put new batt in my meter, now one injector is reading 1.4 ohm, the other is 1.0. This doesn't sound right does it? -
Won't Go Over 40 MPH, getting frustrated
mikestewart395 replied to mikestewart395's topic in The Garage
I'll ohm test it tonight. -
Won't Go Over 40 MPH, getting frustrated
mikestewart395 replied to mikestewart395's topic in The Garage
Yep. For a while it wouldn't go past 3k, now it won't pass 2k. But it is intermitten.<-- however thats spelled. Coming to work today it would actually go to about 2500, not stuttering. -
Won't Go Over 40 MPH, getting frustrated
mikestewart395 replied to mikestewart395's topic in The Garage
What is a CHTS? I cleared the ECM and getting the same injector circuit code, but I did find out it is in Limp mode, not allowing the engine to go over 2k rpm -
Won't Go Over 40 MPH, getting frustrated
mikestewart395 replied to mikestewart395's topic in The Garage
I'm thinking the same. I can not get the injectors until friday, so I will go home tonight and play with the MAF sensor and all connectors. -
Won't Go Over 40 MPH, getting frustrated
mikestewart395 replied to mikestewart395's topic in The Garage
$400 for a new sensor? lol. Forget that. I will get some cleaner and try it again. I'm going to chase the wires down tonight as well, checking the connectors. -
Won't Go Over 40 MPH, getting frustrated
mikestewart395 replied to mikestewart395's topic in The Garage
I cleaned the sensor a month ago, should I just get a new one? And where can I find a factory service manual? -
A few months back I ran into a problem where the engine won't go over 3k rpm. So at 55 the engine would shutter and back fire and no matter what it will not go past 3k rpm. The Ecm gave me the code "injector circuit" I commute through city traffic so not going over 55 was something I could live with for a while. Now going to work yesterday, it started doing the same thing, except now I can not go over 2k rpm, thats about 42 mph. When starting from a stop if I floor the pedal, or get down on it pretty good it will start shaking and stuttering immediately. It is almost like I have trash in the lines, but I put a new fuel filter on a couple weeks ago. I am really getting frustrated here. My plan is this weekend install new fuel injectors, then a couple of weeks new fuel pump, lines then tank. My idea is have everything from fuel tank to injectors be brand new.
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Good thing I researched it. New part at Autozone is only 14 bucks. Sweet.
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Brake carrier is what parts geek lists it as
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It's a Torque member, confirmed. Thanks.
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Sorry I don't have a pic, posting at work as usual.
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My front brake, what is the name of the part that the shoes attach to, not the caliper but the part that bolts to the wheel assembly. I have to get the broken bolts drilled out and tapped, I want to know how much that part would cost but I need the name of it. A machine shop might charge the same as a replacement, I want to research it but I don't know the correct part name.
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Rust is an understatement. My Pathy id a few years in the mountains of Germany. There isn't anything on it thats metal without rust on it. Yes I did use oil. It was basically stuck fast and in prying it it was a quick snap. On the second one I tried going easier but same thing. I used a ratchet, not and impact gun, etc. Time to buy that stud removing bit kit thing.
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I did, actually used a 2x4 and put the parts on it in a nice little row. Both brake caliper bolts broke so that is another issue. I have to research the best method of dealing with that, drill or use those crazy bits, i forgot the name of them.
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Awesome! Thanks Precise
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I bought the wheel studs to replace the broken ones a couple of days ago. Christ, what project did I get myself into. Every video I watched was a simple remove the brake and the hub will pull right off. Not so with my Pathy. I removed every bolt on the wheel/Hub assembly and it ain't budging. This is the first 4wd I tinkered with the front wheels. Do I have to remove the center cap and pull out all those clips etc to get the hub to come off, or is it just rust welded on. I should have took some pics before work now that I think of it.
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i personally do not use a torque wrench to tighten my lug nuts, and I never heard of anyone who actually does. I tighten them "snug" like I have for the past 25 years of driving and tooling with cars. The last person to handle my front wheels was a tire shop a few months ago. I do not think that was it. One of the lugs were finger loose, 2 were broke, which makes me think someone was fooling with it in the middle of the night. I had an old Lincoln that had brittle lug bolts due to age, wear and tear. My Pathy is 26 years old and 300k miles, I'm wondering if it isn't getting to that point as well, I don't know.
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Sweet!! Thanks for the size also. It will make it easier.
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I was doing my marry go round last night of bleeding the brakes, and found my front pass. side had 2 broken lug bolts and one was finger loose. My question is where can I buy lug bolts at to replace them?
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I thought about this for the past few days. I have the 2 door . Getting my suit muddy on the way to work, hmmmmm, not sure about it.
