Nissanland

Btw..does those come in Red instead of blue? All the poly I've been getting are red. Just curious

Yea...I think I will be ordering those for the ever increasing to be done list..LOL it never ends does it..? BUT it should be like a new truck/suv when I get the work completed..just might take me another 10years to do it..but hey that's half the fun isn't it

Shouldn't the tension rods bushings get changed at same time as control arms. I think it would be better time and insurance. Cheap enough to do and the alignment would last longer. I don't know but think that they're thr original bushings. Not loose though.

I think he misspelled. LOL I think he was trying to spell squirrel stock....

Installed the part last week. Came with the lift kit. Good advice for the poor souls who don't know about that part..not everyone has the information.

Back to topic...so running around wo bump stops isn't going to be a issue..cool money saved...I was thinking about the rear sway and thought that I could just remove the bolts from the frame rods and replace them with some quick release snap pins like we use to hold chains on our big rigs. Then I could have them on while on highway but disconnected while off road. Would/could that cause the sway bars and frame rods hit during axle articulation?

Oh come on. LOL I know you can't be that old..and heck you live in the golden state. Never gets cool there...You gotta try leaving Vegas at 85' and few hour's later be chaining up in the snow @ 14' that's when you get the feeling of your bones shattering in your skin and oh, your still wearing shorts from Vegas when you get in the snow storm...LOL But on the serious side of the issue is my illnesses. I have 5 degenerative disks in lower back, pain at time is so unbelievable. I have full body neuropathy and micromyalgia. I have a great deal of non-narcotic medicine in order to do this driving. So any and alll of the things that we all have I can sympathize with...

That's what I thought, but I thought it would be better to ask you guys of the know before I waisted the time and money on it. And NO I'm not at all the dukes of hazards type.LOL just slow and steady (or boring) this all costs to much to jump on it...But I'm willing to have fun with it. Just within maturity of the old man I'm becoming..the bones/body are starting to feel it....8-)

Offended you...see I can't fix mistakes or add information. Grrr

Precise1 is there a reason I can't PM you or why I can't edit MY post any more...says you can't get PM from me..? I don't think I attended you did I....

Thank you guys it diff helps. The torsion bars are marked on the end L&R respectively. SO I'm guessing that I would be time ahead with torsion first. Makes sense to get the hardest part first, I have a full array of Lucas oil product's from fuel treatment to the thickest grease known to man. Truck stops do get me some benefits.LOL anything bad news for the products? What I thought I'd try is to mark/scribe both ends of the bars and then copy the mark to new bars, this way I'd have a good idea of where the re-index points would be. Bad idea?

Well....I have the new heavy duty torsion bars and the new upper control arms, bushings, and new shocks. I was hoping to find out if it were better to get the torsion bar's swap done before or after. My line of thinking is if there was a better order of things it might go easier/faster. I'm sure it's not a big deal. But I also have this saying ( the only stupid question is the one that you didn't ask ) as you know, I'm only home couple days a month so I have to be planned out to get anything accomplished since I'm doing all the work myself in the driveway. ( can't get into the garage, it's full of tools and toys) thx though no education is ever waisted, but it is earned..LOL

Won't it cause issues with bottoming out, not sure how these are yet as I never had a rear coil sprung truck before and haven't yet got it ready for trail riding either.

Both of the stock bump stops on the frame are gone, I have come across two different styles to replace the stock one's. The first is the stock style that bolt on and comes in one to four inch size. Then there are the style that you install inside the coil springs themselves. They are about three inches long. They just ride there until the spring is compressed down and stops bottoming out. They are available on 4x4parts site. I'm just trying to get some thoughts about the pros and cons of each kind.

Before I got the truck from daughter she had the HID installed by a Nissan shop and all it has is one setting. I like the light BUT wish it had hi/low. The hi beam indicates on all the time also..

What's the brand? Where did you get them? Are they the best, highest resistance wire's available? Might need to get a refund and get from a different supplier..they shouldn't glow/spark off the wire and with the boot covering plugs you shouldn't be able to see the spark there either..

I get the how to part of doing a front lift on these pathys, what I don't know is it better to replace the torsion bar's first or the uca/bushings. I have looked all through here and haven't been able to find out if it's better to do the upgrades in either order, just how to...I know it may sound stupid, but I just want to get the job done in the simplest way as time is always against me. Maybe I should bribe some Puget sound ares members for some magic..LOL meanwhile just laugh and dish me out some good ol' fashion sound advice....

Yea snow up here in Montana on the highway passes. We're running across I-90 trying to get away from the winter storm coming in. They're calling for 9-13 inches by Tuesday morning from butte to billings..

I forgot to mention to replace the fuse after the truck dies...LOL my bad..that's what I get for responding in wind and snow. Glad we have 45000lbs of salt in the trailer. We might be laying on the side otherwise...8-)

Start with the fuel filter, here's how. Start by locating the fuel pump fuse in the fuse panel, then start truck and then pull the fuse and allow the truck to keep running until it dies. This de-pressurize the fuel line. Now change the filter located on the right side of engine bay. Afterwards restart the engine and check for leaks. My truck had a similar situation and changing the filter fixed it. Hopefully the information helps you back to the road with some new found smoothness.

I concur with fuel/air filters are the first thing I would be changing. Cheap insurance and easy process to get verification of fix.

At the moment it is faded sand dune color with a peeling clear coat hood. I mite be doing a bed coat job or partial repainting to just clean up and protect since its inception is that of trail riding.

Update.. Back half done. Wow did it gain clearance. I gained apx 41/2 inches with the Goodyear duratrac's (265/75r16) 32's and springs. And new shocks. Found out the brakes were toast along with the heat shield above the muffler, it was just laying on top of the muffler, which is in good shape surprisingly. It's quite quieter than I thought it would be. Missing both axle bump stops. I found one sitting inside the frame..LOL. Hopefully I will get the front lift done next time I get home. Mite be after Christmas though, Christmas freight is on the uptick already, we're taking our 2nd Amazon load since yesterday, and when we get to Reno we're off to Georgia for Friday morning drop. But that's fine, miles equal $$$$ and that means more parts and accessories to get the upgrades with. But I am having a great time building a great trail rig. I will figure out how one-day to get pictures up have a bunch, just hard with a note 2 cell phone. God bless all.....GO Seahawks!!!!!

The snow was up on 89 about 45miles before I-5 by the west bound scale set-up. We had about 3 inch on the road.