Mr. Pickles

Just got back from South Hill Auto Wrecking on 128th above Puyallup. They have I think an 88 and a 91, both with receiver hitches. I didn't do any poking around, other than to say "yep, there's a hitch" since I already have one. But the gal at the counter said they start around $25 in general and go up depending on what it is. Might be worth a look to a couple somebody's out there.

Sounds about right. You're almost the suspension twin of mine. Except I'm putting on Rancho 5000's this morning rather than the 9000's. Oh, and the upper ball joint isn't that bad at all. I heard horror stories but did it recently. I think if you did it and tried to save the old BJ's, it would be hard. But with new ones going in, I just slid in a pickle fork, grabbed a BFHammer and gave them a couple good whacks.

Did the speed of the cranking change much? Like could you hear it turning over much faster than usual? I've toasted a timing belt and a chain in my day, and both times when you crank it, its a higher pitched sound and it turns over much faster. I guess thats cause there is no valvetrain and such turning as well. If that's the case, like was said before, you've probably killed some valves and that sucks. If not, back to the easier/cheaper stuff. Good luck!

You're awesome Rami. -alcohol-

Central 4Wheel Drive quoted the following for Energy Suspension bushings: Control Arm: $42 Sway Bar: $27 Strut Rod: $21

I've got a laundry list of stuff to do to the Pathy this weekend, but if I get to the guard thingies, I'll try tracing a template or something. My passenger one is almost intact (a big tear down the middle) otherwise I was gonna offer it to you the other day SC. Maybe I could do both the stock ones (if I can piece the drivers side one together) and the lifted ones. Not sure of a way to get them to you though, maybe snail mail. If I shrunk them and scanned, that may work if you could figure out the scale.

If he's running an illegal shop, what right does he have to try and hold your truck for non-payment for a technically illegal operation. Is this guy under the table (non-payment of taxes)? Sorry, too lazy to go back over the many posts and read. If so, easy-squeezy. Inform him the truck will be delivered at X time or you'll be contacting the IRS (and state bodies as well, if applicable). Either way, do it anyways when all is done. Man, if he's under the table, the government loves those types.

I picked up a rubber cargo area mat from Walmart for like $8 and am gonna try cutting it to fit, hopefully this weekend. With the BL, the stockers won't fit, and they want some stupid price for aftermarket wider ones. We shall see...

Good point, why not do a quick on/off switch for now till you can do it right. That wouldn't take much effort at all.

Can't vouch on the Pathy application, but I drove a 1985 720 Kingcab like Precise1's for 3 years. That thing was low on power for sure, and with 31's under chopped fenders I got around 200 miles per tank. YIKES! But for reliable, unstopable motor, it couldn't be beat. in 255K miles under my grandfather for a decade, my brother for a couple years, then me, the only things it ever had done were a starter, tranny rebuild, plus normal brakes, maintenance, etc. since brand new. It doesn't really get better than that for durability, and I drive hard.

Among other things, take it out for a looong drive, as in all fluids up to temp, high speed, low speek, up hill, hard driving, into 4WD on loose surface (I spun some mild brody's in the gravel in the car lot ) to make sure everything is working, and keeps working, just fine. Definately DON'T RUSH. You're the one with the $$$ here.

B, you seem to be mistaken.

Man, I'm not even going there. But yeah, like they've said, I bet you should be good. Make sure you're topped on coolant and watch that gauge. And get it done right ASAP! I found out the hard way I had a coolant leak when I stopped at a light and saw the gauge rise, but I had been driving quite a while on the highway and was probably half low on coolant but no problems. Still, you don't wanna blow anything up.

HOLY SH^%&$#@!!! Scratch UPS. I just called them, and they quoted $74-76 shipping to Sydney (sorry, had to use a quick sample and I don't know OZ that well). This was for a 3 lb package. Now I really see how things can get discouraging for you guys. $80 or so of parts shipped for another $75. Now I just ran the calculator for the US Postal Service for the same thing, and came to several much nicer options, the best compromise seeming to be 3-5 day delivery for around $25. That would be for the bushings at least. Let me know if you'd like any other info., and I'll try to remember to check on the actual parts prices. Just trying to do my international good deed for the day.

If I can remember tomorrow, I'll call the guys I've gone through, Central 4Wheel Drive, and see if they can ship to you if you're interested. Can you recieve UPS or Fed Ex? I'll be down at their local shop Friday anyways to pick up my new shocks (longer than stock Rancho 5000's) so either way. That's BS if somebody tells you they can't get these parts though. You just gotta be persistent.

You can get those bushing sets new and in poly by Energy Suspension for well under $100 US for all. I wouldn't think shipping would be too bad, as they're not big nor heavy.

Yeah, I've been finding uses for those left-over bolts for about 9 months now. I didn't really understand that, its like they threw in a handfull or 2 of extras just in case.

Aaah, you really can get it up. It just takes a while. Does yours call for lengthening the PS hoses? I just relocated the reservoir and stuff like the instructions said, and all was fine. But mine is a 94, so who knows. Good job man.

I always wanted a Pathy while owning a 720, then I had one (with a Honda Prelude ricer inbetween). Started slowly, but quickly found Jim's oldl site www.mrjim.net. From there, mods came slowly but surely. Then NPORA came about, and I had fun. Many $$$thousands and many mods later, I'm still behind 88Path, but I've made many decent strides. I've now got a decently built, fairly solid, pretty high truck. B, sounds like we need to find you a sandbox of your own.

I've always wanted a Pathy since having an 85 720 truck, but figured I'd get a 4Runner. Then I shopped, and fell in love with my Pathy quick. Thousands cheaper than a similar Toy and fully loaded with 100K miles. Mind you, I sold my old truck at 255K miles reluctantly cause with 31's and a 4cylinder it got 200 miles per tank. The summary of most everybody in this thread would be: You'd be fine with either, but probably more happy with a Pathfinder and some coin in your pocket toward toys.

Ok, just went through a bunch of suggestions and I don't think I saw one person suggesting the OBVIOUS. Pull the codes, find what's broken, fix it.

Good job on the seeking-out. I see at least 5 Pathy's a day, only most Pathy drivers are plain oblivious it seems. And I've been rolling an original NPORA for like 2 years now. WAKE UP PEOPLE!!!

Once you start playing with the front end mods, I'd recommend the lifetime alignment from Firestone. I paid $130 (on sale) 5 months ago which supposedly lasts as long as you own the truck, and already went back in a 2nd time after installing the UCA's from Rough Country as well as new ball joints. They were obviously brand new parts and the specs were horribly out of alignment, and no questions asked. I've even heard of guys that take theirs in after every wheeling trip. A+ in my book so far.

I've also used about every kind of dino under the sun. Mainly name brand, particularly if its on sale. The last couple years I've tried the High Mileage stuff, but I'm probably being taken for a ride there. The main thing of course seems to be a good filter and regular changes. If you follow the 3000 mile schedule or at least something quick, you should never run into a problem. Overkill, maybe, but its relatively cheap overkill. Say it costs you $10-15 if you do it yourself or go to this place. That's only the cost of a quarter tank of gas/ 3000 miles. Not bad.

Yeah, its a PITA. After looking into it, I gave up and found a local shop that did it for like $500. Considering almost $200 for the part and various BS, plus no shop, the need for wheels to get to work, etc. it was worth the difference to me to have it done in a day. But back to the point, yeah, you have to remove the intake. Not a cool design.