xterra

I can confirm (from personal experience) that first gen Xterra sunroofs are a direct replacement for the WD21 sunroof. That's what I'm running in my rig, since the weather stripping on the original completely deteriorated. The connectors for the sunshade are different than the original WD21 (screw-in versus a cam connector), so grab the shade if you can find one.

I had planned to do the same thing, but it's not quite as simple as I hoped. There were changes to the metal ribs under the headliner, and the 2-doors don't have a bracket that the 4-door map lights attach to. As for the wiring, it runs up the left hand A pillar, then over the door and around the sunroof (at least one a 1990 2-door). I ended up giving up on the map lights, but wired an auto-dimming mirror and a Homelink transmitter from a Range Rover in that spot.

Replaced the alternator after diagnosing it as the cause of the dead battery. It was only putting out 13 volts and looked like it was still the original. So got a new unit (not remanned), but now the Brake, Charge, and AT Oil Temp lights are staying on (they weren't on before). Checked the belt tension and tightened the hell out of it, but still have the lights. Any ideas?

WD21's didn't have headlight relays. There's a good write-up in the garage section about it: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/4945-headlights-performing-poorly/page-1 Lots of folks here have installed the headlight relay mod, including me. It makes a huge difference.

Had a no-start issue crop up last weekend (in the middle of moving). No click at all when I turned the key to try and start it after filling i with fuel. After checking all the cheap and easy stuff, it turned out to be the starter. Took 4 days to get the part, but it's back on the road again.

I originally replied to a post in this thread on the R50 forum, but figured this was probably a more general topic. I've been working on seeing if I can get a 2003-2004 R50 SE roof rack to fit on my 2-door WD21. I found 2 2003 R50 SE roof racks at the local JY for $15 each, so I figured it was worth a try to see if this is doable. From what I was able to find, the two tracks that mount to the roof are the same for all R50s. The SE models that had the side rails and wind deflector were bolted onto those tracks. R50 body stamping also recesses the tracks into the roof a bit, and uses extra mounting hardware. The mounting hardware is bolted through the roof and then the racks bolt to that hardware. Since the WD21s don't have that recessed area, I can't use that mounting hardware. And there is about a 1/2 in gap under the tracks that I probably need to fill so that I don't bend the tracks when I bolt them down. I don't want to drop the headliner, so I'm hoping to find a way of using rivnuts and spacers. There are also width issues. The R50 rack with stock cross-bars is equal in width to where the hump in the WD21 roof tapers down. So I either needed to find new cross-bars that are wider and mount the tracks outside of the hump, or I needed to cut down the cross bar and mount the tracks on the hump. Since mine's a 2-door, I've also got to deal with the band that runs across the top (where the optional light bar would have mounted). I ended up trimming the cross-bars and wind deflector by about 3 inches and had to shorten the tracks and side rails by about 18 inches. The last problem is the sizable gap in the front. On the R50s, the side trim that holds the wind deflector straddles a piece of weatherstripping that comes up form the windshield. There's no easy way to replicate that on a WD21. I'm looking for any suggestion on: - How I can securely mount this to the roof? Like I said, I'm thinking rivnuts with some spacers under the track. Maybe even get some nuts welded to the track for the front and rear side pieces to bolt into, so I'd bolt the track to the roof and the plastic to the tracks. - What I can use to fill the gaps in the front? I'm thinking some kind of liquid rubber that hardens as it cures, but I've never worked with it so I don't know how it will last. Since I've only got $30 and about 20 hours in to the project, I'm not above abandoning it before I drill holes in the roof. I've got some new pictures I took this morning with some wider shots and more angles than I had in my original reply. (Since things aren't all screwed together, there are some things that don't look like they align, but - other than the gaps in the front bottom - everything looks like will cinch down nicely. Here's what I've got so far. Front 3/4 View: Side View: Rear 3/4 View: Close-Up of the Gap: Front View: Top View from the Rear:

For those above with the cruise not working, it may just be you need to replace the rubber bumper on the brake pedal. This definitely applies to WD21s, but I can't say if R50s are the same way. Here's a great pic of what's going on under the dash: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/36370-help-rear-brake-light-stuck-on-abs-dash-light-also-on/?p=684087 One of those bumpers is for the brake lights, the other is for cruise. If the Cruise light on the dash works but you can't set speed, then this is likely your culprit. The parts are about $3 from the dealer, and strongly recommend replacing both at the same time.

That's the biggest concern. I was also thinking filling up the gap with liquid rubber and letting it cure. I can run wiring through the plastic trim easy enough, so I'm not worried about sealing up the holes. I haven't played with it for a few months, and probably won't be able to do anything else until the week after Christmas. If I'm lucky, I can get it all buttoned up that week.

I've actually been fiddling with this in the garage. I found 2 2003 SE roof racks at the local JY for $15 each. From what I was able to find, the two tracks that mount to the roof are the same for all R50s. The SE models that had the side rails and wind deflector were bolted onto those tracks. R50 body stamping also recesses the tracks into the roof a bit, and uses extra mounting hardware. The mounting hardware is bolted through the roof and then the racks bolt to that hardware. Since the WD21s don't have that recessed area, you can't use the mounting hardware and will need to figure out how to securely mount the rack. There are also width issues. The R50 rack with stock cross-bars is equal in width to where the hump in the WD21 roof tapers down. So you either need to find new cross-bars that are wider and mount the tracks outside of the hump, or you need to cut down the cross bar and mount the tracks on the hump. Since mine's a 2-door, I've also got to deal with the band that runs across the top (where the optional light bar would have mounted). I ended up trimming the cross-bars and wind deflector by about 2 1/2" and had to shorten the tracks and side rails by about 18". Here are a couple picks with it sitting on the roof. (I haven't mounted it yet because I'm still trying to figure out how to plug the opening at the front that you see in the pics and figure out how to securely attach it to the roof.)

My first Pathfinder was an R50 that I had for about 2 years when I lived in Southern California. I got it new when I had a short commute. But I ended up moving one way and my job moved the other - so I was commuting 90 miles each way every day. It had over 55K miles on it when I got rid of it for something that got better mileage. I've had my WD21 for just over 3 years. It had ~154K mies when I got it and now has ~180K miles.

Like this: The whole accessory brochure is here: http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/1991-nissan-trucks-genuine-accessories-brochure.html

Here's the list of OEM options that were available in 1991. This is from the Truck Accessory Brochure on NICO Club's site. It lists the rear cargo mat (which was news to me), but everything else on the list I've heard of or seen before.

You are such a tease!

I guess I should have been a bit clearer. "30" is the power source for the switched circuit of the relay. It can be direct from the battery if you want to the circuit work all the time (like you have it). When I said to connect "30" to a switched source, I meant connect it to a source that's only hot when the ignition is on. That's the setup I thought ahardb0dy was looking for (and how I've got mine wired). In either case, you're right that there should be a fuse on the wire connected to "30". The connection to "86" is to the switch to control the circuit (in this case, the foglight switch), not the ignition switch. When "86" get's power, it energizes the electromagnet inside the relay to complete the circuit between "30" and "87" - which then sends the power to whatever you want to control.

It's actually much simpler than that. The fog light relay has 5 connections, labeled like this: 30. This is the power circuit input from the low beams 85. This is your ground 86. This is the relay control circuit input from the switch. 87. There are two of these, which are the power circuit output to the fog lights Move the connection on the relay labeled "30" to a switched source, you can run the fogs independent of the headlights. No other changes are needed.

Always glad to see another 2-door being saved! And really jealous of the brush guard - I've been looking for one for 3 years. (Sorry I can't help you with your suspension question...)

RC- For question 1, all WD21 factory sunroofs are physically interchangeable. So are first gen WD22 (Xterra), D21 hardbody, and early Frontier sunroof glass. The difference is the connectors for the sunroof shade. I speak from personal experience because I've got an Xterra sunroof right now and I'm using my original shade that I swapped to cam connectors. Before 92/93, there was a screw connector to attach the shade to the glass. Nissan switched to a cam connector after that. You can't change the receptacle on the glass, but it's easy to swap the connectors from shade-to-shade. I can also tell you that Xterra sunroofs can be a PITA to get out at the JY because you have to take off the roof rack and gear basket. The latch inside the cabin is a bit different, but only takes a couple screws to remove. The benefit is that the weatherstipping is only 16 years old instead of 26, so much more pliable. Xterra shades will also physically fit on the WD21 glass. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/33452-the-elusive-sunroof-shade/

You should be okay losing the harness and cleaning things up a bit. If you need it, wiring for 93 can be found here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/39949-1993-radio-wire-diagram/?p=750742 The ash tray delete you did looks really good. For adding circuits, I added almost exactly that fuse box, but without the ground. Installed mine in the engine bay:

Crab- The 2-pin round connector is Nissan's proprietary diversity antenna connector. On SE models, there's an antenna in the windshield and one on the fender. The cables come together above the glove box and end up as that cable. The factory head units had the circuits to pick the stronger of the two signals. There are adapters available to change it to a normal antenna connector that I used when I did my aftermarket stereo install. The small white connector looks like cigarette lighter light - the illumination ring around the lighter socket. I can't really see enough of the black and pink connector to say for sure, but that may have been the factor amp connector. If there are 8 wires to it, then that's probably what it is - but I can't be 100%. Some of the wires go from the radio connector to it, so you should be able to check continuity if you have the factory wiring diagram. Best of luck getting the sound system working.

I used that site until I found this one: https://tiresize.com/converter/ It's a bit more intuitive (at least for me). Plus it's dead simple for research if you're changing wheel sizes - showing what sizes are available, the percent change in diameter, etc. I do still like the Taco site for speedometer offset, though.

Replaced the switch bulbs, so I can finally see the hazard, cruise, and rear defroster switches at night. Also started working out what it is going take to add a 2003 R50 SE roof rack to my truck.

Good find. Always glad to see another 2-door getting saved, especially a 29 year old model that looks to be in great shape. These WD21s are pretty bullet proof. With regular maintenance, it can easily run for another 200K miles. You're probably right that the ticking noise is from broken manifold studs. At that mileage, you also want to make sure that the timing belt has been replaced. (Mine's got an automatic tranny, so can't help with the MT question.)

RC- Your pics aren't showing up for me either.

I tried the lower-price ones, and ended up replacing them after a week because they couldn't hold up hatch or glass. Check out StrongArm lift supports - I got mine from Amazon, but they can be found in a lot of places. For the hatch, StrongArm 4758 (x2) For the glass: StrongArm 4815 (L) and 4816 ® They're $18-20 each. I've had them for about 18 months and haven't had any issues.

Congrats on growing the stable! I've seen a lot of Pathy's around here lately, but I don't think I've ever passed one of yours!