Rebelord
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Posts posted by Rebelord
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This is a pic of the are in the FSM for the timing marks. Why this way, idk forum doesnt like Google Photos anymore.
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you need to download the FSM right away. Its in the EM section about how to Remove and Replace the timing belt. That shows you very detailed how to check all your timing alignment marks. To even see the one for the crankshaft sprocket. You have to have the lower cover OFF. If its one. You'll never see it.
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Fully inspect your rack and pinion bushings. Dont have to remove anything other than the hold downs and then just pull the rack out slightly to remove them.
If worn or cracked. Replace them. Mine were only about $15 for both from the dealer. Parts stores just as good.
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On a 1999 Pathfinder, 3.3 2wd, I've got 5 "tic/notches" on my crank shaft pulley.....so, which notch is supposed to be center of the metal marker protruding from the casing cover? (As there is NO Mark on the metal block like the cams have that little bubble on the block). Truck is finally running thank God. Y'all have been wonderful and patient, thanks guys.......
....Been reading this. Still cant figure out what your trying to ask? Then you say truck is running?
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Been trying to figure out why the 04 is only getting 10mpg. Plugs clean. But pvc does quite a bit of oil in intake.
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Wait. What?
Did you follow the FSM for your issue?
Well, if your gonna swap the fuel pump anyways. Dont need to drop the tank. Open the rear door left/drivers side. Flip up the bottom seat. Access cover right there for the fuel pump. Have at it.
Good luck. . . . .... . . .
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Instead of retrofiting. Find one of them rare 01-02 that have one.
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Then at this point follow all procedures for diagnostic in the FSM.
You will have to follow it to a T and it will guide you to the issue.
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Idle air valve probably stuck or the spring is broken.
Pull it and clean it out good with carb cleaner. Then make sure you can move the valve freely. If the spring is broken then it will need to be replaced. If all is good, then you can ohm check it. Should be about 10 ohm resistance.
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SES light on? Have you pulled codes?
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Watch it with Chevy rims. A lot have smaller hub bore size.
If you can find a set of early R50 wheels or Frontier they are 15x7 and aluminum.
Otherwise Summit simple $45 each steelies
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Miami Dade area.
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Thanks Rebelord , but thinking if vibrations gone with front Driveshaft removed ... the whhel bearings must be good ... but I will stay aware of them if any more vibration pop up in the future ...
Correct. Was on Tapatalk which has been acting weird for this site. So, probably ended up reading the thread backwards.
As for mine in my issue. I had no vibs until 60+ mph. Then the front would gradually shake horribly. Imagine all your lugnuts coming off type horrible. Pulled the hubs off and all the grease poured out like black water.
I noticed you also have a 2004. Since you put on manual hubs. Your front driveshaft should not be spinning. UNLESS you left it in Auto Mode. As the AUTO mode will send power to the front from a multitude of different detection's.
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Also check out your front wheel bearings. Was the source of my vibration on my 2004
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The thought crossed my mind but when I pulled it out I found a tag on it from one of the infamous low quality local rebuilders, so I figured dump it now before it throws Murphys law at me. I know if had done the bearings, no doubt it would have crapped out soon after. Surprised it was dated almost 2yrs sgo, usually everything that shop touches is only good for a year at best.
Makes sense.
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Didnt want to just replace thr bearings? If available locally? Napa can carry them if they also have heavy truck parts or specific rebuilder shops
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In the rear the LATCH are the ones with the logo. The standard aluminum loops are not to used.
I'm glad this has stuck up a good conversation on this. It's good to be informed on the safety of our children.
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Sup guys.
For us with older Pathfinders, we dont have this. So, I took at look at my 04 to see how its installed. To my surprise it is built into the rear seat back. So, in order to retro fit it. One must replace the whole seat back part.
Off to the junk yard it is!
Just a FYI for those that have thought about this. As far as the rear tether. Nissan does have a retrofit kit. It cost ~$15 USD for it. Simple to install.
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Well it's not like Stoic is running the Baja 1000 crawling around west. It's for trail runs and such.
Sent from fat fingers on S6
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Just do like Stoic does for runs. Puts some thick washers between the hood hinge bar and the hood. He raises his like 1/2" and it makes something like a 20* difference in the western heat.
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Well they forgot mine. Gotta make a call I guess
Sigh
Sent from fat fingers on S6
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Mine came in today. That was fast.
Question: Thought this kit was supposed to come with a new HD cross shaft? Not in mine at least.
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I run Gabriel Ultra struts and no issues. Plus Lifetime warranty with then from Autozone. So that happens just walk it in and exchange
However they do ride a lil rougher than KYBs
Sent from fat fingers on S6
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Remember this is on a 3.5. Less room than my 3.3.
Was not going to remove the power steering pump. Nope. Just take off the sway bar mounts and let it drop. Plenty of room to take it out.
No need for a quest alternator. This is already a 110A one.
Sent from fat fingers on S6
Considering chopping my fenders
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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Then your front springs have collapsed or broken. I have 31s and clear just fine. hell, they did with no OME springs. So 32s shouldnt be any worries, unless your front has dropped that much. Especially considering BFG tend to run small. May say its 32" tire but only measure 31.5"