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Rebelord

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Posts posted by Rebelord

  1. Bottoming out or over extending?

    Either way, with 3" of lift, you'll need longer rear shocks. For the fronts, your stuck with standard replacements. Because no one makes longer extending struts for the fronts.

    Edit: If the rear is still actually smacking the bump stops even after 3" spacers. Your springs are shot to hell and need replacing. You can find Moog replacements for cheap.

  2. There is actually a set of coil overs that work for the R50. For some kind of van in Japan. Uses the same front suspension setup. A guy on the forum a ways back had a set. I remember he had them up in the For Sale section.

    But they weren't exactly lift coils, I think they were more geared toward lowering. However, they do "exist".

  3. Is there a Auto Hobby shop by you? They would have all those tools and rates should be about $20hr to rent a lift. Then just do it yourself.

     

    If not, have a friend help. Do the rear springs, take off struts. Take them with new struts and springs and mount to Pepboys. Have them assemble your new struts with new springs (have to re use upper spring perch) mount for you. Mine does that for about $20 each strut. Just make sure when they do, they clock the upper spring perch correctly.

  4. Yup, this dreaded code. Been reseting it off and on over the past year. Once cleared, sometimes will stay gone for a day, to weeks.

     

    Now, yes, I know the code and what it represents. Just that the cause, is where I'm at a cross road.

    So, my intake tube, does have some cracks in it, dont really notice them unless you move it in a way to "open" them. If they are leaking, un metered air can set off this code. I did call Rob out in Texas about the tubes, unfortunately I'd have to buy the whole intake system for replacements. Unlike the 3.3. where you can still buy the rubber parts solo.

    Secondly, I haven't changed the O2 sensor, but I may try that first. Thoughts? BTW, this one will be a major PITA to swap out. =(

    Thirdly, just say screw it and decide to replace the CAT and the O2 at the same time. Which, may as just do both sides, and call it a day for the next 150-200k miles.

     

    Anyone else have fun with this code to offer maybe a trick to not have to spend a ton of money?

  5. I towed a 21.5ft camper trailer that weighed over 3500lbs. Hat to pull it loaded with full water tanks and grey/black water. Did have a load level bars.

    Towed with the 99 3.3l. Iron springs only in rear. Plus 4 people and loaded truck. Towed fine. But couldn't go much over 55mph. 12mpg after 500miles.

    Just install a transmission cooler. Get the large plate style.

     

     

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

  6. Check your oil level.

    If you get low as some of our 3.5 will eat oil. The cam solenoids don't have enough oil pressure to adjust the cams as commanded by the ECU.

    If I don't pay attention and get low about a quart. I'll throw those codes also.

     

    Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

    • Like 1
  7. Sensitivity to plugs. Yes. Stick with NGK brand. If you run other brands, you tend to have misfires etc. Its just one of them things. Remember, if you get the cheap NGK which is fine, they dont last 100k like the IR OE ones. 25-30k is a good change point.

     

    Check your oil level too. If your oil level gets low, likes to create havoc. As the cam phase timing runs off oil pressure. So if your low on oil, less pressure cam shafts dont run what they are commanded to. Some funky idle and weird off throttle issues.

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