Rebelord
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Posts posted by Rebelord
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Since I cant edit my post above, I'll add this.
For those wondering about safety of the engine drop etc in a accident.
For years, I have been a F-body buff. 3rd/4th Gens. 1982-2002 Camaro/Firebird. Of which I have made them into autocross cars, to full on drag queens.
My first autocross project was a 1990 RS 305 5spd. Which I did full subframe connectors with the x-brace across the middle. |X| <-- like that.
Plus, lower reinforcement bars that went from the crossmemberr back to the frame connectors. Up top was a full triangulated brace. Across both strut mounts, then back to a center point on the cowl/fire wall.
I tell you, compared to stock. That car you could jack from the center of the side and the whole car would lift up. The 305 didnt have enough power to get into trouble speed wise. But I could take corners at great speeds with out a blink. (Full other suspension was done with wheels and tires.)
Now, onto the accident part. Me and some buds were going through some 2 lane back roads in NC while we were stationed there. We hadnt been on these roads yet. So were taking it easy. But still going through some nice twisties about 35mph. Posted speed was 20-25mph. Needless to say, going through a sweeping left hand curve, there was a large tractor taking up the whole road. I went off the road to the right to avoid. But as I went back onto the road. The rear went out on me. I popped the clutch into 2nd gear and tried to power straight out of it. But all I did was catch and then propel myself across the road into a very large old tree.
The tree hit first on the passenger side front headlight, then made its way to the drivers side area.
Did the engine drop? No. It did get pushed. BUT the fact that everything got pushed because of the bracing, the bracing actually kept the engine from being in my lap. Seatbelt plus airbags worked great. But I think if I didnt have the braces I would have been much worse off than some early style airbag burn and a slight scratch. They are worth it.
Plus with as much off roading that I see a lot of you guys do. I think would help with unwanted body flex on the trails. Just need to get mine in to see how im going to fab up a center skid plate to attach to it.
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Have you checked the volts your alternator is putting out while running?
If its a solid 12-14v. But your battery keeps getting drained then you have a short somewhere.
I had a phone charger cause that for me once. I just had to be the one that stays in the back port.
But time to bust out the test light and Fluke and chase wires.
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Wow! Cant tell if this is stickied or not. But needs to be IMO.
One of the first things I noticed while loading up on tools and towing a trailer was a loose feeling front. Saw this and immediately ordered one.
So others know. It was $60 shipped to me in Miami, Fl. Which is not bad. Now is just the wait for it.
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OMG! That speaker bar is AWESOME!!
I wonder if I could put that in my 99.0?? But all the yards around here dont have any pathfinders.
Unless someone in the Miami-Dade area knows of a yard that has a bunch. (They like to chop shop em back to running, then export to S.A.)Or possibly by a retrofit or make something.
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Hmm. Would a older 3.0 or 2.8 mechanical distributer work? Or us the guts to convert yours to mechanical?
If not, then might have to find one you can control with a separate ignition box.
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Good to hear you solved the problem.
Before I changed the bushings on the rack and pinion, I noticed that everytime I made a hard left turn, my steering wheel wouldn't align correctly(cocked to the left a little), but it would still drive straight. Only when I made a hard right would it align the right way.
Yep, but my wheel stayed off key either direction. This is what I had left of my rack bushing.
The more complete one was the passenger side. You see what was left of the drivers side.
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In the Brakes FSM. There is a section to diagnose ABS. MIne was pages 40-41. I had to ground a pin on the consult to ground, then turn the key on and the ABS light flashes to give you the codes.
Like pulling codes from OBD 1 cars. 12 is the handshake code.
Check it out. Was able to get the code 26 for Front Left.
I would check to make sure the rings arent caked up etc. But if you have to change a sensor. Definitely shop around. But I was able to get OEM one on Amazon for $104. BTW, right now, Standard Motor Products is making these for Nissan. Mine came in a SMP box, but had Nissan stamped on the sensor and the correct Nissan part number printed on the wire and engraved on the plastic housing.
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1999.0 with 168k
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This is one reason why I need the ABS working.
Thats the work trailer. 2000lbs weight plus usually have about 200-300lbs of tools and parts in the back. But the can on the trailer is the most important piece. Cant get tangled up in a mess in traffic.
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Whew that thing was stuck in the spindle like something else.
Took all of 2mins for the wiring harness, but 45min to get the sensor out. Had to tap the new one in softly. But no more ABS light.
Here is a pic I took.
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Yep, I have it right. But still Bank 2 Sensor 2 High voltage. Second new sensor too. This is aggravating.
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Nice that you got it figured out. I had a similar noise. Ended up being the rack and pinion bushings. Good thing they were only $13, and that was at the dealer ship!
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A quick solution for some storage are milk crates.
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0.02 - Duralast products tend to be either BWD or SMP (Standard Motor Products). Same manufactures that are sold at Advance and make a lot of the reg Napa parts. BWD tend to be the manufacture of Napa Premium parts.
I had a similar issue myself a bit back. Ended up being my coil pack shorting out to the distributor housing. So, pull your cap, then the cover for the distributor. Check for any "electrical" dust. Black soot where stuff can be shorting out.
Plus pull the coil back and check the bottom of it. Thats where mine wore and started shorting.
As for replacements, at the parts store. You can only get reman distributors with all new parts. They run about ~300-320. Plus you turn in your old to not pay a $20 core.
You can find the coil pack and ignition module separately around on the web though. Prices, I dont really know.
I never threw codes either.
As for you current code for the Bank 2 Sensor 2. Check out TSB NTB99-004b. Talks about that and a grounding issue causing it.
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So, I made a ground harness. 2 wire, 14 awg. Goes from the original ground points on the center of the intake to the passenger side head. Used all new SS bolts with a touch of anti-seize. Since the heads and intake are aluminum. I'll see how this works out.
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So it isn't the manual hub. What are the odds that the SLIGHT difference between the driver and passenger side geometry is enough to cause the CV to have issues?
Here is what I have found:
When I am under the vehicle and I manually turn the CV axle on the passenger side there is a point in the rotation that is like a hump you have to get through before it is smooth again. When you go over the hump it wants to push the front differential towards the driver side. You can actually see the front diff move when this happens.
That sounds like a binding issue. Which at speed will be pronounced. If the CV axle doing that is aftermarket one. But you have a stock one. I would put in the stock one and see if it does the same. If it doesnt, and you take a drive and no vibration is there. Then that is your issue.
You posting that makes me believe its that.
Otherwise, I was going to say the same as other, check your bearings. But if there good, they are good.
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anyone have a good link to the full TSB with diagrams and such? I made a harness but would like to make sure I have it correct.
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Precise,
That TSB does apply. But so does the NTB99-004b which is the grounding harness one. Which I cant seem to get a good pic of the harness and how it says its supposed to go. Even in the sticky in the R50 thread. Pic links are old.
But I did make a ground harness from the original grounds on the intake harness grounds to the pass side head. Ill see if it comes back. Plus I'll check and see now what my Bank 2 Sensor 2 is reading.
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I am throwing the code a lot. I have replaced the Bank 2 Sensor 2 twice now. NTK brand (NGK). When I pulled the original out, it was OEM Nissan Bosch. But I still keep throwing this code. Cant figure it out why.
I check real time voltages of my O2's and that was is still always high.
Any ideas?
William
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If you have screws or allens that are not wanting to loosen up. Take a pair of vice grips. Secure them on the handle of the screw driver tightly, 90*. So you can hold the vice grips and tool on the screw. Then tap the top of the handle of the screwdriver as you slowly turn it with the vice grips.
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Sup guys.
First time joining the forums, long time reading/trolling for information on here.
1999.0 SE 168k mile currently
Picked it up last April with 138k mile on it for ~4k. It was a company lease vehicle in NJ until it hit close to 100k miles. There is a long service history of it going to dealerships up there for service. Which is one reason why I picked it up. Plus I needed a work truck at the time that could haul stuff out of the elements. Its very clean for its age/mileage. I get a lot of compliments on how clean the interior is. Exterior is very clean also, just has the normal door dings and a few small dings from me recently. Heh.
It is all stock right now. Except the exhaust. That had been changed at some point in its lifetime, not sure when. But it has a Dynomax muffler now, with no resonator. Has a nice sound to it.
I have taken it in for all recall checks, checks good. Found out that when the strut recall came out. It was taken in then and was good, but they re applied the better coating. So strut housings are 4.0. Fuel filler neck is good. What was nice about that visit, was they noticed that my front seat belts would stick and not recoil back in. Whether taking them off or putting them on. Which I did notice was annoying. That's when I found out they have a lifetime warranty. Took it back in few days later, for a few hours. Bamn! Brand new front seat belts. Cant complain.
It has been running pretty good for me. I did have some hiccups about a month ago. Started running rough, and would randomly stall on me. Then I noticed a miss at certain rpm ranges etc. Checked cap and rotor, that looked original. Changed that. No dice. Started shooting plug wires, 3 were way high. Picked some up at Napa. No dice. Hmm..wth? Checked fuel pressure, checked good. Started shooting other wiring, checking stuff. Couldnt figure it out. So, off to the dealership. $525 later, new distributor. The coil pack would heat up, then start to short out to the distributor and ignition module. Which those parts cant be replaced individually. $305 just for the distributor. Which is about the same price as a reman/etc from Napa, Advance. So, just had them put in a OEM Nissan one. Plus since I had just changed the cap and rotor, the mechanic put those parts on my passenger seat for me to keep. Which was appreciated by me.
I have another thing going on. But that requires a whole new thread. O2 Bank 2 sensor 2 keeps going bad. Dont know why.
Well guys. Hope to see you throughout the forums.
Semper Fi,
William
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I had the same problem with my passenger side seat. Wouldn't move. Took it out, and found 1 penny in each rail all jammed up in there. Had to use my cutters to cut up the pennies to get them out. But works 4.0 now.
my 99 Pathfinder
in 96-2004 R50 Pathfinders
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How is the ride of the OME HD springs compared to stock? I expect stiffer. But I dont want to be bashing my kidneys riding around. Heh