Rebelord
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Posts posted by Rebelord
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Without getting into a bunch of technical jargon. The factory dual 1.75" into the muffler provides more than enough flow for our trucks. The factory dual 1.75" pipes have the same flow rate as a single 2.5" pipe. (Actually 0.639 cfm less).
To keep the same flow rate for a dual in, single out muffler. Would be to find one that has dual 1.75" in, 2.5" single out. But a single 2" out is fine.
Here is a chart to show you:
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Stop!
Its Hammer Time!
Heh, had to do it. Yep, BFH is the way to go. As Trogdor said, using a nut on the end helps with it too. Plus having a washer and open ended is needed to draw the new one on. Use grease and be very liberal with lube to get the new one to pull on.
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Mine was made at Home Depot. I know ACE Hardware can make em too.
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must of been 99.5, my 99 doesn't have a chipped key
Same here. My 99.0 has a regular key. Had a spare made at Home Depot for pretty cheap.
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I'm trying to get it under the hood as I'm too lazy to run a 4gauge wire to the back of the car
Apparently, you can fit 2 side by side if you turn them 90 degrees. I need to make new tray first though. If I had my snorkel finished I'd probably put the second battery where the old air filter box was.90seven said "No pics, didn't happen", so here's a couple of pics of my latest "mods"...........
B&M cooler with oem tranny cooler
Snip
Wow! Your truck came factory with a tranny cooler? Never knew these had that option?!?
Pretty much same cooler I have. Except mine is a Hayden. With the amount of room available, and where you wheel with the heat. Why not try cleaning up the old one and running with the new cooler in series?
Into the new cooler, out the the stock then back to the transmission? For a little bit of extra cooling capacity?
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After struggling to stay above 45 going up a mountain pass the other day, I picked up some seafoam spray. The hose system it comes with is pretty weak and I didn't put a whole lot in there... anyone else use the spray? Where'd you put it in? I shot some into the accordion pipe where a vac line hooked up but I was worried I'd muck up the MAF.
Start the truck. Disconnect the vacuum for the brake booster. Or disconnect before hand. Just hold your thumb or plug it to start the truck.
Stick the hose into the can. Keep the RPMs at about 2k for half the can.
Or, in your case, spray about half the can in while keeping RPMs about 2k.
Shut off truck. Let sit for 10+ mins. Start truck; repeat. Let sit again. Reconnect any disconnected lines.
Start it up and hold RPMs ~2k for about 30secs. Let idle for about 2mins. Take it for a drive.
Someone to help you keep the RPMs up is very helpful. Also, ONLY DO THIS IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA.
Be ready, warn neighbors, etc. Might create enough smoke to get the Fire Department called on you. (Has happened to me several times.)
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Subbing as this is exactly what I plan on doing.
One thing I was thinking of to lessen the rake was to order the Trim Packer kit from Rocky-Road to place in the front. Its just a coil spacer that goes with the coils in the front struts.
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I have to ask. At the :25 second mark. You came down hard on your front bumper area. What did you break? I know something had to have broken with a hit like that.
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I hear you on the spacers. 4x4Design makes em and so does NX4. The way I see it, if your taking the time to remove your struts to put a spacer. Why not do it all at once? Plus spacers will only give a inch of lift. Yes its more. But add those plus some springs and now your at ~3".
NissTec? Hmm. I havent heard of them. However I am new to the Nissan world. LSx cars used to be my thing. Ahh, the power of a LS1/2/6/7 etc. nomz nomz..
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Lifts for the R50; there are 3 options really. The Old Man Emu springs; from Rocky Road. Give about 1.5-1.75" of lift. The Automotive Customizers springs; from 4x4parts.com/nissan. Give 2" of lift. Then there is the subframe drop kits which can be done solo or combined with the spring lifts for added lift. When you do a subframe drop though. You then use a Jeep WJ adapter for rear springs. That can be found at: http://www.krfabs.com/product_detail.php?productID=2
As for struts and shocks. Struts up front available are the usual Monroe, Gabriel, OEM and KYB. KYB is what I'd say 90% of the users here are using. Rear shocks there are more options available. Just find the one you like best. Again, most just match the struts for KYB shocks. But I do hear the Bilstiens are very nice. Old Man Emu does make its own set of struts and shocks for the R50's. They are priced higher, but are supposed to be pretty good. Possibly made by Bilstien.
Cheapest route to lift, would probably be the AC springs ($380) and order up struts/shocks from Rock Auto. But shipping may play a factor. AC is located in South Florida. Rocky Road is out west, OME springs are $466.
Its also highly recommended to change strut mounts/bearings with OEM when doing them. That will run about another $80-100 or so. Courtesy Parts is good, also a member we have on this board can help you out. His name is: Alkorahil
He has a dedicated thread for parts.
This is all in the sticky's but just gave you the Readers Digest version.
Rebelord
Edit: Oh, and there is 4x4design.com which makes strut spacers and rear spring spacers for a extra 1" of lift. The rear spring spacers are for stock style springs only. Not for the WJ lifted ones.
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I wouldn't drill any holes. If they are correct part numbers but not working then I would call RockAuto for an exchange
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If the truck is tricky to start. Probably a tow truck. That's something that has been rampant down here in South Florida. Is tow trucks just taking cars and then to chop shops or trying to claim it was towed and strong arm "towing and storage fees".
Unfortunately these vehicles tend to get exported to South America very quickly.
Best of luck, get pictures out as soon as possible. If the cops still dont want to help. A quick way to get them to respond is to say you just maimed the person who stole your truck. $100 they will be there in minutes.
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A lot of places now wont mount up a non-stock tire size by their system. So, if their system says 265/70R15. Even though a 31x10.5x15 is practically the same. They will say no.
Might have to resort to putting it up on jack stands. Taking all 4 off and bringing them there by themselves to get them to mount em. Or find a smaller Mom n Pop store. They usually don't care.
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You can run that tire size and wheels stock if you wanted.
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Another trick. Put some chassis grease on the sides of the bushings to help them go in. If none available, Vaseline works, even baby diaper rash cream. Its silica based.
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I would look it up in the FSM how all the air bag wiring is. Should tell you where all the sensors are etc. I know on GMs they were always larger gauge bright yellow wires. Not sure on our Pathfinders.
But it should have some good info for figuring out what is going on. For my '99 the FSM where all the air bag stuff is located is the RS section. (Restraint System)
If you need a quick fix for inspection. Could probably get some surface mount or flush mount side marker lights for a trailer from Northern or auto parts store for el cheapo.
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What is the knurl diameter of the studs?
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Did you check your rack and pinion mounts? One could be shot that allows it to move around. When mine were shot and it sounded like a strut popping turning and going over speed bumps. <br />See my Members ride thread on my R&P mounts. <br /><br />Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2<br /><br />
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Check your fuel pump fuse and relay. In case it got hot and burned those out. Otherwise yes the pump could be bad. Not sure on your truck of the pump has a inlet filter on it. If it does, sometimes putting a about a half a tank of gas and letting it sit for a bit might clean it off enough to pull some gas.
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Nice rig. Some issues, but definitely workable. Um, one thing about the blinkers that may be wonky. Is that the original front blinkers were in the bumper fascia. I know it is possible to relocate the plug to the marker lights and possibly change the bulb to the right on to work. But not sure if even with that done it still creates the "fast blinker" problem. Unless you have other issues..heh
I would definitely check out the air bag light blinking. Something may be unplugged or a sensor messed up. Especially if the radiator support is/was bent. Which looking at that bumper, looks like it would hit a lot of stuff. You dont need that randomly inflating on you while driving or other wise. Will hurt and probably cause a accident. o.O
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Mod delete. There is a FAQ Pinned topic on this. /facepalm
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Does anyone have experience with this?
Looks very interesting and promising. But for those with snow, not sure how it may work out.
Link: http://lokka.com/site/ Just scroll down a little bit and Search your Year/Make etc.
They have them for the front. Nothing listed for the rear.
Price: $389 shipped USA & Canada
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Changing my pass valve cover gasket. They are supposed to be hard like plastic right? Lololol<br /><br />Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2<br /><br />
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Going to take it somewhere or want to do it yourself?
Need new tires 31x10.50x15 recommendations
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
Posted
Dude those are nice. Would look pimp on a hard body Pathfinder. <br /><br />Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2<br /><br />