enkrypt3d

Thanks guys yea B if you could let me know how long those upper mounts have to be in order to directly mount it to the frame instead of using brackets that'd be best I think.... I dont know if they are long enough though. I'm sure I could get some shop to weld on another piece of metal but I dont want to modify it too much... And yea the mounts underneath seem pretty beefy... those things weigh probably 10-15 lbs each hah! I have to get the AC condenser replaced at the same time along with a ton of other stuff...

So can I bolt it directly to the frame? Not sure if those tabs are long enough...?

Yes they do come with the lower brackets... I'll snap a pic tomorrow and post it up. my OEM brackets look nothing like yours since they have a 90 degree bend in them.... and 4 holes on the flat part...

Hmm its kind of hard to see how the oem brackets are used.... it looks like they've been modified? How do they mount to the front of the truck? Thanks!

Sorry its going on this: WD21 The build quality is good... it might need a few spots to be spray painted on the back but that's no big deal. Well worth the wait. Also trying to find what lights will fit in the holes on either side of the winch.....

Yea its from Tactical Armor Group... the OEM brackets aren't going to be used as I don't see how they'd work anyway. I'm guessing the 2 uprights are going to need to be drilled with the same holes that the OEM brackets have to mount it directly on the frame. I dont have a drill strong enough unfortunately. I guess I'll have to take it to some shop to get them to do it....

Mods feel free to move this if its not in the best section thanks

So after waiting about 2 months, I finally got my new bull bar: Its very well made but I'm trying to figure out how the tabs directly behind the main bumper attach to the truck... It appears as if I might need to drill some holes in the 2 upright tabs: This is the view from the rear along with the OEM brackets off of the truck which don't appear to be useful. Here is a close up of one of the uprights: Let me know if you guys have some ideas. For the lower mount, it has some brackets that wrap around the bottom I believe... its 1/8" inch steel so it might be pretty tough to drill through....

Does anyone know the part number for this harness? Mine is gone wacky again... if I move it, the engine cuts out and stalls... (going over bumps etc) I want to replace all of it. What's required?

is this seller even remotely trying to sell parts? Or are people just going to keep posting "i want this and that" and get no replies?

hahah yea thanks for that... as if this place needs more entitled jackholes.....

its pretty clear to me why this forum is dead.... because you always try to make people feel stupid with your condescending remarks....sure there is some useful info there but I think everyone could do without the snarkiness.

Just to get more lift in the front and to be able to setup the alignment properly... The steering components are brand new (well about 6 months old). New center link, idle arm, tie rods (inner and outer) and all sorts of bushings...

Anyone have any input? should I get ball joint spacers with my aftermarket UCA's?

That's just what bilstein gave me when I called them. They are a bit long in the front though... And they are a lot softer than the rancho 5000's but still firm. Doesn't ride like a caddy or anything but it's much better. I had to get these since the 4600's were on backorder.

I don't pretend to know everything there is to know about my pathfinder... (not saying anyone is just to be clear) - The *stealer*ship told me they did a valve adjustment just like they told me they replaced my UCA bushings (which they clearly did not do)... And who did write that last line? I saw the EGR line going into the manifold under the hood (where else would it be?) It's pretty easy to see where it is... but again I don't have the tools and I'm not able to have my daily down for days (if I were to try this myself)... I was just eye balling it and wanted to make sure it would be fine since I have to smog my truck soon. Making mods to the truck before smog usually isn't the best idea...I've been down that road many times with my other car. And again my complaint is not against you, it's just in general. There is tons of info here but finding it in an organized way is very time consuming. This is why we have countless unanswered posts b/c the assumption is "eh he'll search for it eventually". But I don't post unless I can't find it by searching first which is shocking I know. But if the info was better organized there'd be less noise and bloat covering up the valuable info here. /rant Not to mention I'm on here all day reading and digesting information... the threads that I do find are 4+ years old and the info I need is spread across many threads with varying opinions on what the facts are as far as what to do, where to find parts, or what the best approach is... there are no turn key solutions for this truck unfortunately.

This thread will die just like all the others. Precise1 does reply but it's with a sense of reluctance rather than willingness to help. His posts exude a condescending tone (as per his last post calling me a troll)... I'm not apologizing to anyone.

Really dude? I'm on here more than anyone and trying to answer countless unanswered threads here... what are you doing other than criticizing people for asking legit questions? Or just not answering any of them at all. This site is full of thousands of threads that have tons of questions and no answers. I wonder why? Because there is no one here that's willing to help it seems. (except for a small number of very friendly people) So much for this forum being a close nit group of people... there's only a handful of folks here that are #1, willing to help and #2 know how to answer the questions... And yea before you say "just search", I do search and all I find are more threads of people asking the same questions with no answers or a thread that are 15 pages long. And no I don't have a shop with a professional collection of tools to fabricate anything I like at a moments notice. I live in LA proper. The pathy is my daily driver. So no I don't have the manifolds in front of me. They are on the truck. Excuse me for being a n00b.

Is the POWER button turned on? (The button to the left of the steering wheel) this button makes the trans hold each gear a bit longer before it shifts to a higher gear...... I like it on when I'm in traffic or going up hills as it lets me use the gears longer before the trans decides to shift before I'm ready. also might be time for a tune up - new spark plugs, wires, coil, air filter, fuel filter, oil change and if that doesnt help get a new MAF, O2 sensor, PCV and get some seafoam and run it through the entire engine. I poured mine through the PCV hose and into the oil, and into the gas tank.

Went wheelin this weekend and it seems the rear end has settled some (more so than the front) should I put some spacers under the springs? Also should I get some ball joint spacers to use with my superlift UCA's? https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/pathfinder-ball-joint-spacers-p-199.html If you look towards the end of the video, it almost looks like the front wheels don't turn in the same direction.. I'm not sure if this is because of crappy oem steering (which is brand new) or just an alignment issue... thoughts? thx

Hey guys on the doug thorley headers, does the OEM EGR pipe connect to these aftermarket headers? or is there some sort of an adapter? Just wondering as the place where the pipe connects doesn't appear to be on the same place as the OEM manifolds...

anyone have any updates on how their front LSD's are doing? Still debating on doing the R200 in the front and an arb locker in the back.....

Whatever happened to this project? I've been trying to decide if I want to a swap but there are no turn key solutions

http://www.arbusa.com/Vehicle/1995-nissan-pathfinder-.aspx or should I just get a locker and be done with it? haha which one would I order if I have the HG46 axle? How many splines? 31 or 33........ would I need the master rebuild kit along with this if I wanted to rebuild the whole diff?