01Pathmaker

Got the front done today after work! This thing rides amazing now! Never expected it to ride this good! Now for a quick list of parts I just threw at her (I'll tally up the $ another time). Rear: Shocks, Trailing arms with bushings, 1.5" Spacers (thanks Steve!), all new associated hardware. Front: Struts, 1.5" Spacers (I'm lovin Steve!), all new associated hardware. Took more time than I wanted it to, but almost 20 years of road salt, beach driving and at least 8 years of launching a boat into salt water made for a tough and crusty go (hence all new hardware). Only a few more minor things to do, then my budget build will be complete. 4th tire should be here tomorrow (other 3 arrived Saturday?). Off the top of my head, I'm still in it for under my $2500 max, tally will come soon.

So was finally able to pull a full garage day! Things didn't go as smoothly as I'd like, took all day, 11 sawzall blades, ate up a full cutting wheel on the angle grider and gave the air hammer a workout. I can say that my entire rear suspension is done. I'll post more details and specs soon.

To do it on the cheap you just need at least 7" wide wheels with either the appropriate bs (3.75 seems to be a good universal number) or spacers and you favorite cutting tool to "clearance" the fenders.

Ah, if a rear disc conversion was available for the r50, now that would be sweet! Unfortunately though, a PROPER rear disc swap is a very involved process. Aside from sorting abs issues, the right rotors, caliper brackets, calipers, pads and lines must be sourced or fabbed, then a correct or adjustable proportioning valve and master cylinder. It sure is nice to dream though.

I'm also very interested in ride quality without it, about to dive into my suspension mods. I'd like to remove it 1) to improve off road capability, 2) save money by not replacing links and bushings.

Welcome! I'm leaning more towards an electrical or ignition issue, but it's always better to properly diagnose instead of just throwing parts at it, that gets expensive real quick. Like precise mentioned, download the factory service manual from a link in the garage section of this forum, it'll help immensely.

Antenna is on a circuit with other accessories (i don't recall which, radio possibly?), when I found that mine was killing my battery I just pulled the inner plastic liner and clipped the power wire.

Just to clarify, I'm running MD springs from AC, from the limited specs I could find it looked like they may be the same as ome.

Wow! Can't touch them for that around here, but not sure about the US/Canadian rate. Kind of ironic, I almost scored a set of 5 gently used 31" duratracs recently, listed locally on craigslist for $700. Texted the guy less than an hour after he listed them, someone was already on their way to pick them up.

I voted for the .5" md ome, I have been running AC md springs (assuming they're similar) on my 01 for several years, at all 4 corners. I love em, but some have said "wow, this thing rides like a truck!", to which I reply "yep, it's supposed to". If your preference is a soft, squishy ride, then the tired stock springs and toasted shocks/struts in my 96 fit the bill. That thing rides like a marshmallow (for now anyway, very soon to change). I've been curious myself, what exactly is the "trim packer" from OME?

Looks good (as usual)! Bet 5 of those put a hurtin on the wallet, should be able to sell your almost new 31's for a good chunk though, that'll help ease the pain.

Hahaha! Nope, no blood splatter or involvement in criminal activities. Sellers were quite well off with too manny vehicles, this was the oldest in their "fleet" and once it started giving them issues they just wanted it gone. If I didn't buy it they would have scrapped it! They had a phone offer from a junkyard of $400 so I matched it.

Just digging this back up as I will be updating it soon. After much research, I ordered a bunch of parts and some tires. Hopefully I'll get 'em all on late next week/weekend, then I'll update with details amd pics. Teaser: It will be quite capable after I'm done. Oh yeah and total cost will be under $2500!

Looks awesome!

Would someone please give this poor guy an actual measurement! I'd hate to see him get a haircut while pulling into work! :O

Welcome! If your current boot/bumpstops (the rubber parts you are describing) are in decent shape you can reuse them. I would definitely change out the strut mounts and bearings while your in there though. As far as how level, you'll have to wait for others to chime in, as I don't have personal experience with that lift. For wheels you can check out summit racing, they have their 15x8 3.75bs black d-window wheels for under $60/each shipped. Best regards and don't forget to add pics along the way.

Wow, nice! Do I smell an SFD coming?

All good info, but unfortunately this truck got sold before I had a chance to look at it. Figured it would, seems to be a rare but desired combo around here. My search continues...

Under the drivers rear seat bottom, pull up the sound deadening/insulation mat, you'll see an access panel, remove those few bolts and the panel, then you have dirct access to the fuel sender/pump assembly. Pretty self explanatory from there. Before disconnecting any fuel lines though, its a good idea to pull the fuel pump relay while the vehicle is running, let it run itself out of gas, pretty much eliminates any spills when disconnecting lines.

WTF!!!! Are you serious?

Do you have the electronic or manual hvac controls? If manual, then it's likely the blower motor resistor. If electronic, your probably looking at the amp assembly.

Looking good Lerch! Developing a fair share of Canadian speed holes too!

Yes, as long as you have manual controls, the resistor is behind the glovebox (slightly left and low IIRC), is fairly inexpensive and takes less than 10 minutes to replace, start to finish.

Have you guys forgotten about Nitrous? Anywhere from 50 to 500+hp at the touch of a button! Woohoo! Now that'd be some serious BANG! for your bucks!

Pretty much, all name brand hitches are good, my personal preference is Curt or Reese, but as long as it's a class 3 and no-drill installation it'll work just the same. Shop around and get whichever one you can get cheaper. Also keep an eye on craigslist, I picked up an oem Nissan hitch for free for my '01 (not typical, but can also be found cheap).