linewar

Here go da hawtness raht hyur. . . . And doesn't this look so inviting?

I'm not sure about cross-application to other Jeeps, since the KJ is the only Jeep I ever owned. I did a little more refreshing of my memory, and looked at the Boulder Bars link I posted on page 1. The Frankenlift for the gasser KJ uses OME 927's in the front for H/D, and the Frankenlift for the CRD uses OME 790's in the front. Both use 948's in the rear. Not sure about the 928, since it is not listed.

Me too! I chose History thinking I would go to grad school, either seminary or law. I ended up in Human Resources, and I'm good at it and enjoy it. Go figure. The only thing it's really helped me with is writing, since I had to do so much for my class load. You would be amazed (or maybe not) at how people send emails as business communication with misspellings, poor grammar, and missing basics, such as capitalization and punctuation. It's atrocious.

If it's part of a weapon, it's too fancy to be standard issue for a soldier, like the bayonets. It would have to be part of an officer's repertoire. Given that the other objects are both presumably WWI-era German, then Occam's razor would point to the same for the brass object. Maybe a decorative riding crop for a cavalry officer, that the leather rotted out of?

Some people were running Rancho or SkyJacker lifts, and several of the more adventurous assembled their own kits to their preference, but I didn't have the experience for that. I limited myself to the pre-assembled, packaged lifts. Apart from my JBA lift, a kit that had OME was the standard for lifted KJ's. Some used Rancho strut assemblies with OME springs, some used full OME setups, but OME springs were the status quo for lifted KJ's.

Triple post!! That's got to be some kind of record. . . Lol

Yes; the block of the CRD sits lower in the subframe, so the pumpkin of the front axle assembly is pushed out more toward the driver's side wheel. That makes the driver's side half-shaft shorter than the passenger-side, thus you can't go as high without serious modification because of the severity of the CV angle. The diesel engine also weighs more, so OME heavy-duty is the standard for the front assembly on a CRD, where medium-duty is the standard for a gasser and heavy-duty would get used if you have a winch bumper. Seriously, I know way more about the KJ than I do about my Pathfinder. . . .

I'm a former Liberty CRD (diesel) owner, and was very active on that forum. OME lifts for the Liberties are kinda the standard, I chose however to do a lift by JBA. (Jeepin' By Al) Here's my install thread for my Liberty: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=53361&hilit=epic Just from looking, the major difference I see is the front strut assembly. Sure, you could use the OME 948's in the back if they're a direct fit, but the front strut assemblies and coils wouldn't cross over. The Liberty has a clevis setup (a lot of KJ'ers use big washers where the clevis attaches to the strut when the springs start to sag) and, well, frankly, I can't quite categorize the R50's setup. A company out of Big Bear, CA, manufactured a full lift setup for the Liberty with OME components called a Frankenlift. http://www.boulderbars.com/frankenlift.htm

Is it time to create an alternate log-on, to stack the vote? Do it Boss Tweed and Tammany Hall style? I already cast mine for you, PA.

I think Dodge had lightning in a bottle with the Magnum, but didn't really know what to do with it. The car had clean lines, muscular haunches. . . like a Dodge interpretation of an Audi wagon. I just love a stick shift and it wasn't offered in the Magnum or the Charger, or else I likely would have bought one. By pushing marketing for the Magnum I think Dodge could have done a lot to roll back the tide of CUV vehicles trashing up the streets now a days by taking away the stigma of "station wagon." A guy that used to live near my old church had a black SRT Magnum, too. Man that thing was clean, with the 6.1L Hemi and gunmetal rims. Oh, and for lulz, my sister-in-law drove one of those Ford Freestyles for several years. That thing is as station-wagon as station wagon gets, and she would YELL at me when I called it that. "No, it's an SUV!!" Ironically, though, it did count as an SUV for insurance and registration purposes; it had a Louisiana plate with the truck designation. (A letter followed by six numerals and no spaces) Maybe paying more for registration and insurance makes a person feel better about driving a dowdy wagon - kinda like having all-wheel drive makes a Subaru Outback a "utility" vehicle? for that matter, I wonder if insurance would consider an SRT Magnum a sports car, or a family sedan?

I was thinking that the brass thing might be a fancy snuff-straw, but I believe it's too big at 17.25". There was a time when smoking was considered unladylike, and many women used snuff tobacco instead. (My, how that's been reversed) In order to avoid the stigma of spitting, either into a spitoon or on the ground, ladies would carry a snuff straw. It would be decorative metal (since there was no plastic then) with an ivory or bone handle, and a "carburetor." She would release spit into the straw, hold the carburetor, then remove it from her mouth and release the spit from the straw into a spitoon. To me, other than that, it kinda looks like the broken-off handle of a fireplace poker.

Human Resources for an industrial maintenance and construction company based on the Gulf Coast. Primarily recruiting and staffing, but I do investigations and complaint resolution for the Southeast Texas region as well. Been with the same company 7 years.

I feel the OP's point. I hate car-based SUV's with a passion, because they are station wagons with poor(er) gas mileage. But unlike some, I actually LIKE a true station wagon. I'd love to get an Audi S-Line A8 wagon with the 4.2 V8, quattro, and a six-speed stick. I could put azaleas in the back and then go hit the Nurburgring, are you kidding? I hate to think that the actual "Utility" vehicles might be disappearing. But, as always, the actual demand for them is not enough to support large investment from a major auto maker. And also, the car industry is cyclic. If they go away, they will come back, albeit in a slightly different form - like CUV's being a reincarnation of the Estate Wagons of the late 60's and 70's.

See! Exactly what I mean! I have an SE with XE wheels, he has an LE with a 5-speed. . . what in the wide, wide world a sports is a goin on here? I have no idea what's going on right now. . .

When I posted yesterday, I went outside and looked at the tag on the inside door of the glovebox. Door tag matches it, though. Honestly, I could care less which one it is except for just plain old curiosity. It's 17 years old now, too old to find any satisfaction in its options or "status," and not old enough to be classic. Just a solid, reliable daily driver that has enough longevity left in it to justify modding it up. However, I do find Nissan's option packaging to be very ambiguous. Seems that the only one that was clear-cut was the LE - automatic trans only, leather, bells and whistles, etc. I think I read here that LE was the only way to get leather. (of course, now someone with an SE will post that they have leather and a 5-speed - which would be an awesome combo, IMO) I think if I had been the original buyer, I would have picked an SE with a tire carrier, 5-speed, 4wd, and no sunroof. All the other goodies, though. BTW, trogdor, I LOVE that poem in your sig. Hilarious.

Anyone know what the XE Sport Package consists of? I thought I had an SE (thought the XE had the unchromed steel wheels) because of having a rear LSD, 5-speed, 4wd, flares, rear spoiler, PW, PL, keyless entry, cruise, cloth interior. But, I have the chrome wheels like the OP, and original tire size 235/70/R15. So maybe it's either an optioned-out XE, or an "XE Sport Package?" Also, I used to have 31x10.5 BFG T/A KO's on it and only rubbed at full lock with the stock suspension. Also, the VIN when I added it to my insurance pulled as an "SE."

Yes, you will cut the original wires completely and leave the ones running toward the rear of the engine in the harness. (Make sure you wire the new sensor to the live wire, not the dead, after the cut! Lol) The harness itself also carries the wiring for the fuel injectors, so study the Youtube video carefully. As stated, the only thing that is not really clear in the video is the arrangement of the knock sensor wiring - one is a traditional copper wire with insulation around it, and the other is silver wire, un-insulated, and wrapped around the insulation of the other wire and then both are inside a black rubber sleeve inside the harness. It's not super clear in the video, that's why I mentioned it. Just pay careful attention to the video, it definitely is a complete walk-through. Price-wise, that's about what I paid because I got a package deal and OEM parts. I ordered it off eBay as well. I didn't want to take chances, so I bit the bullet and paid. You could probably do it with a cheaper sensor, but getting the correct harness is very important.

Yes sir!

Just wanted to share my joy - since my Pathfinder was just returned to me a couple of months ago after spending 4 years in my mother-in-law's possession, I did not remember having the timing belt changed when I owned it previously. I've been prepping to do the replacement, reading how-to's and pricing replacement kits, etc., and it dawned on me that I had some major work done on it when I owned it before. So, I call the shop where I had the work done, and asked them to pull a record of it - and lo and behold, I had the timing belt, tensioner, and water pump replaced at 105,990 miles in June of 2008! No timing belt replacement for another 74,000 miles!!! That means $$ for mods! WHOOO HOOO!!!!

Well, did my first full tank of gas since the relocation and got 15.3 mpg - better than the 14.6 I got before. Did a little more highway than normal, so that may have had something to do with it, but hey - every little bit helps, right? Even if it's only half-a-mile per gallon better.

Glory days. . . .

Haha! It looked kinda like that except the wheels were an off-white five-spoke mag, and it had the rotor on the handlebar connection so you could turn the bars without binding the brake lines. I have absolutely no idea what happened to that bike; I think it was the last bike I had. Can't remember one after that.

I hear you. At some point mine will have to come off to replace the driver's side valve cover gasket. But that's pretty low on my mod list right now because its not leaking nearly as bad as the other side was, just a little seepage. Next is timing belt (oh boy) then, all in one fell swoop, new front half shafts, Warn hubs, OME suspension, and probably some bushings since its going on 17 years old. Lots of $$$ to be spent on this lady in the next several months.

That's what I was trying to show - there are not two wires at the harness connection, only one. Somewhere down the line it becomes two, because there are two feeding the downstream connector and two that I stripped and spliced. You can kinda see a blue plug in the other pole exit of the harness, if you're looking at the sensor from the top it is coming from the left side of the plug. As far as I can tell, if there are two wires, they both connect on that one side of the harness plug and then separate into two wires down the line.