AndyC

Looks great, but I'm with RP88, try heating it up a bit to improve the fit. Still awesome as is.

You've got bigger problems, your steering wheel's on the wrong side!

Your brakes will be unaffected by a gear swap.

You'll know it's there around town, especially parking lots. How much rubber it eats is up to you. My KM2's have 30k on them and should last through next summer with proper rotation.

I'm pretty sure they measure clearance at the lowest point, rear diff cover. In that case, the only way to change it is larger tires. Pathy may have a lower advertised clearance due to it has a larger diff than comparable toyotas, or smaller stock tires.

It's not loud, think the aliens from "Signs". Just annoying when your trying to find other noises. May just be my OCD kicking in.

You'll have to check the back spacing on that wheel. I'm running xterra wheels and they have 5in bs, not ideal at all on a wd21.

That may end up being my path also. E fan is sounding better and better.

<br />Made little magnetic mounts for my signal indicators! Not permanent, but hey, works!<br /><br />But looking at the picture, they may need some adjustment.

Trying to isolate an irregular engine "tick" I tracked it down to the shroud under the fan. Mine seems a bit loose, looks like it is secured with two clips. Not sure how to tighten it up a bit or if I really need it to begin with. Not a big issue, but feast rating when trying to figure out other anomalies. Thanks!

I've run BFF km1, then km2's in the 33x10.50 side. They perform fine on most of our NW trails. Haven't cared for the km2's in the snow as much. I'm eyeing the MTR's for my next set, 33x12.50. Two guys have sets on wd22's in our club and they seem like an incredible all round tire with good wear. <br /> That being said, if you're not wheeling that much, modern AT's will do the job well 90% of the time around here, with less side effects.

Two years, no sway, well no sway bar. The truck sways!

If you went with the stock length rs5k's you will need to order longer one's to accommodate the lift coils in the rear. A shock wont extend on its own, they do not control vehicle ride height.

http://www.rockfordcv.com/rcvboot.htm Use these myself with 3in lift. Two years of wheeling and they look new.

Often the minimum clearance is measured at the lowest point. Considering the R50 has a much larger rear diff(good thing) and smaller tires, that could account for it. Dollars for donuts you get more for your money with a pathy than a runner.

Hey, 3000 owner here in the pnw. They ride fine and hold up reasonably well. Can't see spending more for a shock.

Simple stuff first. Make sure the transfer case didn't slip into neutral. I've had mine vibrate its way due to bad mounts. Maybe get someone under the vehicle to verify that the shift linkage isn't broken.

9, surface rust from rear tires flexing. You should add vehicle location/history to your poll. Bet most of your <6 are concentrated in the salt lick states. Mines been a NW/Hawaii truck, just well maintained.

9, surface rust from rear tires flexing. You should add vehicle location/history to your poll. Bet most of your <6 are concentrated in the salt lick states. Mines been a NW/Hawaii truck, just well maintained.

They do a fine job behind small blocks. I would imagine, with judicious use of the throttle, it would hold up to a 4bt no problem. Also depends on tire size of course. An unmodified D60 will cost you quite a bit of clearance also. Build it, wheel it, if it breaks, fix or replace it as necessary!

http://nissanwheelers.com/showthread.php?t=2632 Guy in our club going SBC, he's had a relatively easy time of it!

Stock is probably 5in, 3.75 for the Legos. Try to find some about 3.75-3.5 to keep rubbing at bay.

In the long run, what's 3k going to do for you? I sold my very well loved 1972 Bronco under similar circumstances. Regretted it ever since, buy a commuter, keep your truck, you deserve it. I don't know you from Adam, but if you let your wife make these decisions, you may resent her down the road. Otherwise, GLWS if its what you really want to do.

They are expensive, unfortunately there is not a stronger alternative. The only new units are the cardone's. some members have had success with these, some (myself included) have not.

If money is not an issue get new shafts from Nissan. My second suggestion would be to have a set of OE shafts pulled at a wrecking yards, then rebuild those with Rockford thermoplastic boots. Is your truck lifted? Maybe think about a set of manual hubs which can help with cv longevity.