Bluewulf73

That sounds eerily similar to what my car is doing...it has gotten worse, except my car will start...for now. I've changed pretty much the same parts you have changed, except for the distributor and fuel pump. The car stumbles and shakes and while this is happening, it runs richer than Trump. To the point I can see the black smoke coming out of the tailpipe, as if it were a diesel. I also get a strange smell, not of rotten eggs but just very heavy spent fuel smell. I have changed the cap, rotor, plugs, wires, TPS, AICV and ordered a new distributor, new fuel pump, new MAF and all four O2 sensors from Rock Auto yesterday. Hopefully they'll be here soon. You make a good point though jayjay6888, what if it is caused by clogged cats? ​ I'll have to ask at my stealership to see if they would know... Hmmmmnn...

Looks awesome! Photo angles can be very deceiving with respect to measurements and distances. Still, I can tell the difference between this shot and the one you posted with your new tires. Congratulations. You are well on your way to becoming a modification addict. It is intoxicating!

I think the 2002's have a VQ35, don't they? Being as how you are in Qatar however, 2002's might have come with VG33s there. If you are sure you have a VG33 then it should fit. I am not sure. Might be, since the knock sensor is meant to detect detonation. If your engine ran lean during the stumbling/stalling it could have caused code PO0325 (someone please correct/add if I am completely wrong or missed something) There is something odd with my engine...spring last year, I ran some horrid fuel (only gas station around) and it messed with my fuel system. Said fuel caused the engine to miss and detonate ( I could hear the pinging) yet my knock sensor never went off. After that fuel tank, I used a fuel additive to get rid of impurities in the fuel and got some good gas. Didn't have issues again until late last year when the car started stalling while idling. I should have never sold my Scangauge II. I could be using it right now to monitor fuel pressures and such when the engine stumbles/stalls. I might need to get another one.

It would be nice...problem is that wreckers here gouge everyone on everything... Set of flares for my 98, without hardware...$100/flare...used, off a wreck.

I have had the hubs on for only two weeks and I am noticing a difference of about 50-55 km/tank and that is in the city, with the RTT on top. To me that is HUGE. So, yes, you will notice a difference and daily driving, the Pathy is easier to drive, especially in tight U or three-point-turns.

I think what you are referring to is this. MAF FIX It seems to work on the VQ engines. I did not find anything for the VG33. I am just going to try and get one from a wrecker (unless they ask for stupid $$) then I'll look into alternatives. Maybe someone else can chime in if they have actually done a maxima VQ MAF to VG33 swap.

Maybe the issue is caused by the pump warming up and that is when it starts acting up...otherwise it could be the O2 sensors as it only happens when they are supposed to be at normal operating temperature... Anyway, I just got my distributor and I have a course of action that I'm sticking to. I am going to replace the distributor first, then the fuel pump and then the O2 sensors. If that does not work well, the last two things to replace are the MAF sensor ($$$$) and the fuel pressure regulator ($$$$ or long hours taking the IM off...again just to change the FPR.) I want to keep this truck and I guess that replacing parts that are 15 years old is not that bad a thing. If anything, I will, hopefully get another 10-15 years out of it. Still cheaper than buying a new car... I'll see if I can do this on-by Friday n I'll post. Really friggin busy @ work this week.

We have a Princess auto around 45 min. away from me. I might just wander over, fall in the store and come out with a timing light...

NOt yet. It hasn't acted up for a while (until this afternoon) so I have not been able to get any kind of reading I still think its my dist. or fuel pump. My friend seems to think it might be a fouled-up O2 sensor. His reasoning for this is that the Pathy runs very rich while it stumbles and stalls... Still, no codes at all which make this job very confusing. I already ordered my replacement Dist. and will pick up a replacement fuel pump soon too. Both are things I can easily replace at home. I am going to do one at a time so I can get definitive answers. I'll post up once parts are changed.

I will be using a set of LED light as DRL's once I iron out the projector...project Funny - those w/o DRL's want them, lots with DRL's want them gone...

When I replaced my rear LCA and UCA the ride did seem (visually) a bit higher and it definitely felt tighter. After things loosened up, YoDa once again became a saggy bottom boy. (take that last comment as you may) My rear CA's were completely shot and were replaced with brand new ones, along with all rear bumpstops. My shocks and springs were all replaced because they were shot after 200,00 km. Chaces are your ride will once again look lower at the rear once the bushings losen up a bit. After that, you'll have to decide whether you want to replace your springs or add a helper air spring. If you add the helper spring, make sure you enlarge the hole the hose is going to go through, (as stated in on of the prevous posts) but do it enough to be able to use a ruber grommet to protect your hoses from chafing on the metal ends. You should be able to get the grommets from any automotive parts store. Doing it right the first time should give you years of enjoyment and use out of your air springs. (Even with the OME lift, I am thinking of adding the air bags to help with the exttra weight I carry in the rear on our long tirips)

lookin' great!

Yup got them here in canada. check the fuse, relay, n' box beside the battery. I unplugged my DRL's from there, then the box fell off its holder causing a short. put it back in its place and changed the fuse, everything's fine now. Checked it and returned it to its unplugged state. unplugged then 'cause i was thinking of getting sum HIDs. Not 'till i can find them projectors though...

Great idea! I have been toying with the idea of attending this http://www.overlandexpo.com/ next year but I'd be just as insterested in GONE MOAB in 2014. A strong NPORA showing would take the cake too. I got permission to attend the Expo, now to convince her that both events are totally worth it!

Im not too fram from WA so I will attend wherever. Maybe even try n get one going in BC and meet those is WA?

Do you have an anti-thef device, one with a kill switch? Mine's acted up now and again. Lose wire there might cause waht you're experiencing.

Make sure your battery terminals are tight, re-check the wiring you did. From the lights to the connections and everything in between. Check your charging system by checking your voltage at the battery with the car started. If I remember correctly it should be between 12-14 V. If not, you have a bad alternator and/or battery. I once took my car to the shop and after getting it back it would die when accelerating hard. The positive terminal would pull away from the - battery post. immediately after braking/slowing down, the car would re-start/catch again. Mechanic never re-installed the terminal on the post, just had it sitting next to it, touching it so everything would be fine until I accelerated.

Grrr..anticipation = don't make us wait much longer... BTW, I just thought you should know that those rims are my favourite OEM Pathfinder rims for the R50.

Yah, no worries. I already researched the snot out of "Distributor Change on R50s". I don't have a timing light andI don't want to have to pay to get the car towed or fixed so yeas, marking everything and photographing is high on the agenda. WHo knows, I might just do a video tutorial again. Time to brush up on my automotive parts-speak. Oh, when I find the fix for this problem, I will be posting it. I will be so happy to get rid of this issue, it will be posted for everyone to see, read, hear, etc., etc., etc.

Well, kind of...what do S/C Xterra's use? I mean, they can't be using piping much larger than what we have, especially given the "modest" HP bump. If one uses the stock configuration with 2" piping all the way back from the headers, (assuming one gets headers) then it should provide a decent increase without losing much torque, if any. In my 4-bangers, I always changed the puny 1 7/8" for a 2.5" from the header back and although I did lose some low-end grunt, the gains were well worth it. Also, believe it or not, I did see an increase in MPG while cruising on the hwy. (Note that I said cruising, please) Having said that, In this truck, I would not want to lose the low-end grunt and would be happy with just a tiny bit of increase at higher rpms. So, I'm still voting for stock configuration with 2" piping. Magnaflow muffler and either no resonator out back or a cherry-bomb, just to quiet things down...a bit. I am currently running stock everything, except for the end resonator. Just straight piped that one and the sound is great. Not loud enough to hear while driving but loud enough to hear it at idle and low speed cruising in alleyways.

I think my LE has a plastic cover on the dead pedal...not too sure. I'll check and either confirm or deny later.

I currently have 30X9.5X15 and have tested 31X10.5X15 on the truck. They fit no problem. (other than rubbing in reverse) I have aftermarket 15" wheels with 3.75" Backspacing. My original wheels couldn't fit anything larger than the 235/75/15's it came with so, as shoes stated, it is more about the backspacing on your wheels than the actual tire size (unless you are trying to get monster mudders in there) Try this. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html It might give you an idea as to the difference in sizes between the 245, 265 you mentioned and a 31" tire. 245/65R17 = 29.5X9.7R17 265/65R17 = 30.6X10.4R17 265/70R17 = 31.6X10.4R17 Got the above measurements from here...shoes was ROM! http://tire-size-conversion.com/how-to-read-tire-size/

All I have to say is 1 day left to a *hopefully* beautiful long weekend.

So, been looking around for a replacement distributor.(The one on Amazon cannot be delivered to Richmond, or Canada for that matter. So, I've gone looking for replacement distributors in local stores (Lordco, Canadian Tire, NAPA, Vancouver Auto Parts, ETC.) The average price is $350.00. Highest price quoted was $500.00, lowest was $249.00. WTF So went on Ebay and found some (claimed as new) for $80.00 all in all, after taxes and shipping, $114.00 Happy, once again.