ferrariowner123

Huh, i always thought they did, my bad. And is the reason you want it to cross back over into single is because you will get a high back pressure, increasing torque? (i could be right, or showing how little i actually know. ) Its true dual right now until it hits the factory muffler. why would opening up the size of the pipe have any more effect that allowing it breath better? unless that stock size is the reason the back pressure regulated. But as far as fitting, the blocks are very similar right? Being the same series and all. steevo is the forum rep for Rugged Rocks right? I'll shoot him an email, seeing if hes willing to do this experiment with me. lol Hopefully i can unlock some HP out of my engine. Isn't a full supercharger set with inter cooler and all of the other things needs run over $1500? only to run around 2-3psi to avoid getting a forged lower end? This exhaust is going to be well under a grand. Thanks guys -Kyle

Well, i just got an email back from the muffler place in Austrailia. Being that they have RHD pathfinders, they are fairly confident that they will not fit on our LHD cars. Which sucks. But if you know of a way to get headers on our cars, please tell! -Kyle

Thanks for the info, ill shoot them a PM And than you for the complement. Also, whats stopping me from trying to fit the AC headers? all the make are one for the later WD's with i presume had 3.3's, either way i can drill it out, are ours pathy's that much different of a configuration, to where i can delete the rear collector and just keep the dual setup in the muffler? https://www.4x4parts.com/nissan/headers-pathfinder-c-367_266_350.html -Kyle

I came across on the POcA Forums a company called Hurricane Headers, and they seem to be the only company (that i can find) that makes an aftermarket bolt on set, designed specifically for out engine and vehicle. Here is a link to distributor, (Hurricanes website is rather useless). http://www.bestmufflers.com/bshop/product_info.php?products_id=4257{55}65&osCsid=835a49e8b0e3679dd734292a8c0f9076 I did a quick search and came across this; http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/9032-got-new-headers-on-my-r50/page__p__124988__hl__+hurricane%20+headers?do=findComment&comment=124988 I've Also heard that you can modify Rugged Rocks, VG30 headers by fitting longer studs? IIRC. But i was just wondering if anyone else has done anything for our engine in terms of headers? I have been considering getting my exhaust done in the near future and was wondering what peoples experiences are. I heard it makes a difference according to most but dynos. -Kyle

Agreed with above,but if you want to go further. Check out these guys. http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/ you'll need to search for the pathfinder, but its the first result on there. -Kyle

Your brake pads were almost worn out. my light was doing the same thing not too long ago. Changed the pads and what do you know the light went away. Stumbled across this old thread, looking for help, on a different matter Seeing that it wasn't answered, i thought i will fill in! -Kyle

Replacing the bumper? i had to track down those clips as well. they break if you take them out wrong. I was so angry when mine snapped when i attempted to repair mine. -Kyle

Update, So i have changed the MAF and the TPS, Only seems to add to the problem. Im fairly confident there is not a vacuum leak, but i have yet to really check, if anyone has a solution please let me know. My car using SO much gas, i don't know whats left to do! Im getting to the point of wanting to take it down to my repair guy and just paying, really don't want to, but its shaping out that way. What it is doing, is when its cold it will shoot up to 2000RPM on start up and stay there depending on how cold it is outside, sometimes it calms down. when it does calm down it will then only sit to around 1500ish RPM. Only when it has been on the road driving, for more than 20-30 minutes will it start to behave somewhat normally like idling around where its suppose to, however the original problem for me starting this whole thing was the bouncing idle while the car is moving with the clutch disengaged (which it still does from time to time about as often as it did before) and when its not bouncing, it just idles at 1500 RPM. However now what it is doing is when the car is on and stationary, ill turn the steering wheel the the idle jumps a little (no more than 100-200rpm) which it DID not do i changed the TPS sensor. Its very strange, does anyone have any additional ideas or suggestions? Im totally stumped. Any and all help is appreciated. -Kyle

That is amazing color! Well done!

But it currently doesn't die. I'm just getting really bad gas milage. Are you saying it should die and that how I know it's the MAF?

Well I'll give a few examples. Before I changed the TPS sensor, it would sometimes bounce between 1500 and 2000 rpms will I had the clutch depressed while it was moving. And it was only after the car had been driving at freeway speeds for 10-20 minutes will it idle correctly. But while it's cold, it was sit at 1550rpms and coming up to stop with the clutch depressed it will shoot up to 2000ish rpms. And its only after I come to a stop for a second or two will it then idle sometimes where it's suppose to. Most of the time it sits on 1100-1500 mark. But I'm going to change out the MAF and then take it into Nissan and have the TPS correctly positioned. And troubleshoot this issue if the MAF change out doesn't correct the problem. And that started fluid idea sounds really clever, I'll have to try it. Thanks for the tip -Kyle

So i just found out that my car should idle when i press the clutch in, while the car is warm and at any speed (first car never knew any better) It will only idle at the correct RPM when i come to a full stop, Sometimes. So i just changed the TPS and got it generally working so that it idles correctly, (still behaves weird when its cold) Im taking it in to Nissan to have it correctly adjusted, ($85!) But can anyone think of a good reason to why it wont idle right? I've read a couple of different reasons why this could happen, Bad TPS: Nope, just put a new OEM (Used) on and got it set, and seemed to fixed some of the problems. Vacuum leak? i don't think so, is there anything hear for with a vacuum leak? I did pull my intake back in April, but its done this none idling with clutch in since i've bought it, back in late '09 Bad MAF: (what i think is the culprit) i have a used one in good shape, and i think ill try that one next before i take it to Nissan and say, "FIX!" can anyone else hazard a guess at to why it does this? Thanks -Kyle

Well. i got it fixed, i ended up just eye balling it after it shot out a CEL, haven't check it or cleared, but im fairly sure its TPS related, it doesn't behave quite as it did before, and it STILL doesn't idle when i put my foot on the clutch at ANY speed, on when im dead stopped will it return to idle. It should do that right? because right now when i depress the clutch it just sits on the 1500 RPM, and thoughts? However there is no more bouncing idle with the clutch in like i had previously described, and its working well...for now. Thanks for the help -Kyle

Yeah that kinda helped, do i need to do that whole shimming process to get it factory spec or can i set it as in the video, pretty much the eyeball method or basically until i get my resting idle? Nothing that i can see, but their is a huge section on how to trouble shoot it, i dont have a lot of time, so i just skimmed it (have work in the morning) But please check, i need to get this son of a gun running well again. Thanks -Kyle

So i replaced the Throttle Position sensor today, based on what some of you guys were saying i should do from a previous thread. and i did not put it back in the same place and it looks like i made the problem was worse, when i started it up, it was idling high, around 1150 (didn't do that before) and when i started it cold it sat at about 1950RPM (again, didn't do that) all at all. However, I was totally un-aware of how much a huge pain it was to get it set correctly, otherwise i wouldn't have done it. So now i made the problem worse and i was hoping i could get some useful insight on how to get it adjusted correctly before i attempted it tomorrow with some buddies. I found this on 4X4 Parts forums http://www.4x4parts....rev=#Post241620 but it seems to only imply that it needs to be done for an Automatic, mine is a 5 speed, does that make any difference or it same rules apply? and when are you reading the continuity , im assuming that it ohms on my multi-meter im using (dumb question, but i have been screwed in the past, for not asking) and also, the engine is running for this entire process correct? also, is there any damage that can be done electrically or physically by me adjusting the TPS by loosening the screw while the engine is running? Also, what is the business about a FIC? (Fast Idle Cam?) How do i know if i have it, and if i do, when it activates? ANY and ALL help will be greatly appreciated it. Thanks -Kyle

I have been wanting to do that, soooo bad!

HAHA touche

Awesome write up, how much did you end up paying for your pair?

Why do you say the body panels?

That be awesome! Thank you

I know it can be done, please don't crush my dreams! I want the look of the updated pathfinder (01(ish)-04) on my 96 I just need a few willing volunteers, willing to take SEVERAL pictures of their mounting points for their frobt and rear fascia's of the face lifted pathfinder This will allow me to determine how much fab needs to be done. Since its just a face update, i have no doubt in my mind, that with the parts, everything should bolt right up to my 96. So if i could get some in depth pictures of the mounting points for the rear bumper, that would be where i'd like to start first. And then gradually move the sides and front fascia. Eventually i will have everything including the front and rear lights, bumpers, hood, front quarters, and lower valence area. Any and all aid in this project will be greatly appreciated. -Kyle P.S. i hope this is in the right section.

Isn't that everyone's motto when they own a civic? i couldn't resist. -Kyle

So which side of the door? The inside, as in the metal in which the speaker and door cards mount to, the outside where the window lives or both?

So im looking at investing in a dynamat style sound dampening for the the pathfinder, i just don't know where i should put it to get the best results. My main goal is to stop the tremendous rattles coming my my 500RMS 10" sub sitting behind the second row, and i have tracked that rattle down to the rear lift gate. and i really want this thing to not be so dang loud at freeway speed, it doesn't have to be a benz, but something to block out some tire and wind roar. so im thinking floor and double up on the wheel wells? Does anyone have a ball park on how much square footage i would need if i were to do the whole car? my guess would be 75-100sq ft, Thanks -Kyle

Yeah, nice buy, that bush guard is awesome! I would love to get one of those! Nice find.