theexbrit

I have a Rig Runner inside, 40 amps, direct to battery, constant on. My ARB fridge runs of a ciggy lighter socket that used to power the stock amp, works fine. The fridge only use .8 of an amp so no worries.

I have a 31" tire & a 5 gallon gas can on mine with no problems. I took the inside panel off a long time ago & it is pretty well braced on that corner. No flexing with me either.

I'm looking at getting the Goodyear M/T's $170 a pop, but I need to wear out my 31"x10.5"x 15" Kelly Safari A/T's first. They've been great tires but I want to step up to 33" now. Pity you're across the country, you could have 'em for $50 each, they only have about 5,000 miles on them.

I had some plans for mounting a swinging arm on a custom bumper using a nice, heavy duty, greasable hinge pin. I'll dig out the info if you want.

:laugh: :laugh:

As my buddy said when she started up..... "Ya canna change the laws of physics"....

Had a good mechanic buddy of mine come over today, checked the fuel pump relay first, it's clicking so the wiring was ok. Then checked the fuel pump using B's method, fuel pump is buzzing away merrily. Then my buddy sayz "did you check ALL the fuses, including the mini fuses?". "Yes" I sayz, they all looked ok. "Lets check them again" he sayz & grabs his test light. 1 fuse blown, 2 fuse blown, 3 fuse blown, etc, total of 5 blown mini fuses. Replaced these fuses & away she goes, purring like a kitten!!!! :D So, being the big nob end that I am I did a half arsed job of checking the "minor" fuses after I replaced the high amp fuses, that's why she would turn over but not fire up. A couple of those mini fuses in the engine bay fuse box must protect some fuel/air sensors, etc. Anyway, Ol' Green is running great again except for the hi beam lights, so I'll check all the inside fuses when it's light. Moral of the story is double check the simple stuff first. Oh, & don't drill thru a wiring harness!!!

Unfortunately I can't blame this on beers All is still not well in the warp drive. I replaced the 80 amp fuse after a long drive to a wrecking yard (stealerships wanted $16 & special order, 2-3 days), now everything works & the engine turns over but it won't fire. No firing at all, just cranking, so I'm thinking fuel. I checked the fuses (engine compartment & interior fuse box) & changed the fuel pump relay, still no firing. I'm thinking it has to be a wire that I missed repairing unless anyone can think of a reset or something that I need to do. I really don't want to pull all the harness out again but it may come to that.

I have a Fusion work car that had new tires (El Cheapo), I'll see what rating they are tomorrow.

I found about 6 wires in the harness that I'd hit with the drill & sliced apart What a wan er I am! "You are correct sir!!" I fixed the wires but it did pop some fuses, 3 40 amp & the main 80 amp jcase fuses. I managed to find the 40 amp jcase fuses at Pep Boys but no one has the 80 amp. I will try the stealership tomorrow, if no luck there (or too expensive) I'll hit the wrecking yard.

Just have the gps her/him yell directions to you in that annoying robot voice & then you won't have to look at the screen

Yeah, i guess I'll start at the ign switch & work back. I'm going to check the harness first in case I did drill into it, I wanted to switch the batteries around anyway so now's my chance.

So, put a new cruise control switch into the Pathy today & also drilled a couple of small holes for a washer bottle mod. Now there's nothing when I switch on the ignition No power locks, no ignition lights, nothing that seems to work off the ignition switch. The headlights work, the interior lights work, etc, but anything that comes on with the ignition es no bueno I can't see that the cruise control switch had anything to do with it, so the only other thing I can think of is I must have hit the wiring harness when I drilled the 2 holes. The part of the wiring harness in question is between the battery & the headlight on the passenger side. Anyone know if there's anything in there that would cause this? I would have thought it was just headlight wiring & stuff, but I'm no expert. Thanks in advance for any help

Also retook it, now I'm in Florida. Keep getting closer & closer to Britain!

It seems to me that it would be easier to leave the heater controls where they are & put the screen where the ciggy lighter/ashtray/stereo is now.

Illinois!!! Well, I guess it IS a bit closer to England than where I am now......

What a bunch of nob ends! :laugh: I see there was a Heep Cherokee in there also.

Same as me, it's supposed to be the "heated rear O2 sensor". Mine comes & goes depending on the fuel level I replaced my evap canister & valve, O2 sensor is next.

I have the 6500k's & you are correct sir..... @!*%e in the wet. I'll get the 4500k's next time. That looks exactly like my 24" led bar, did you get it off Fleabay?

Fleabay for Chinese knock off light bars, although most of the "name brand" light bars are made in China anyway, probably by the same factory I have 2 Ironman 16w spots on my front bar & they're really good, the 120w light bar on my roof is a knock off but it's well built & works great.

What he said :laugh: rebelord was the inspiration that got me going on a DIY snorkel.

No, it won't fit. I have one from a WD21 sitting in my garage right now if anyone wants it. The hinges are totally different & all the latches, etc, too. I was lucky & mine originally had a swing out but a previous owner had switched it for the underneath carrier. I still had the bolts & all the catches, etc, that fit on the body, so all I needed was the carrier itself. If yours didn't originally come with a swing out your rear panel probably isn't strong enough to support a carrier, the panel was reinforced on the ones with the carrier. If yours didn't originally come with a carrier, you're better off fabing a custom bumper with a carrier attachment. I believe there's a few places you can buy one all ready to fit, Tactical Armor Group is one place. If yours did originally have a carrier, hit the wrecking yards for an early R50, it's surprising how many had swing outs. A member from up north found one in a wrecking yard, bought it & shipped it to me for less the $150 I think.

Where'd he go???

Man, that is one ugly van :laugh: :laugh: Everyone has their own tastes I guess I bet it's more off road capable than the new Pathfinder though......

I got a generic remote off of Fleabay, works great! I did have my old remote though & I can't remember if I had to use the old one to "teach" the new remote the code, I'll try to remember. This might help.......... http://www.triple-c.com/How_to_find_your_cars_lock_or_key_code.cfm