Jump to content
  • Sign In Changes:  You now need to sign in using the email address associated with your account, combined with your current password.  Using your display name and password is no longer supported.

 

  • If you are currently trying to register, are not receiving the validation email, and are using an Outlook, Hotmail or Yahoo domain email address, please change your email address to something other than those (or temporary email providers). These domains are known to have problems delivering emails from the community.

frecklecolouredbrain

Members
  • Posts

    194
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by frecklecolouredbrain

  1. everyone is trying to guess what the problem could be when there is no problem. If it doesn't start when your wife tries, that just means the pathy doesn't want her to drive it. that just leaves more driving time for you...yay. You ever see the movie Christine?
  2. Ok, so i replaced my rad and t-stat this weekend and was surprised at how easy it was compared to everything else i've done. But, now my temp needle is reading at the warning line when at idle. when i checked the coolant temp, it was between 175 and 185. After pushing it like a racecar for 45 minutes i had 195. I know that my gauge reads a little high anyway, but its never been like this. Does anybody know the actual normal operating temps for our engine?(not the t-sat opening temp). i'm pretty sure my sensor and/or gauge is done, I just want to be sure that i'm ok at the temps i'm running.
  3. if you have a manual, turn your radio off and listen to your fan. When it's running, it make A LOT of noise. after about 3000 rpm it stops and your engine sounds really quiet because the clutch kicks in and the fan stops. So, if your running lower rmps it'll stay cool no matter what gear you're in. My advise is to let it warm up while you watch the temp gauge and listen for the engine to drop down in rpm. and mark that spot. if it's not centred then you're gauge is fkt. mine comes out of "open loop" 3/4 up the gauge and sits 1/4" off of 0 degrees when my engine is cold... you might have the same issue.
  4. sorry man.. you're gonna have to trace your wires. Good luck tho.
  5. If you use a temp gauge from an '89 you'll get a funny reading because it's centred at 155 degrees. not 170 like every other Path.
  6. you can take off the entire cover without removing anything. there are a couple of bolts in some tricky spots, but it can be done. And look at your Haynes for the proper replacement order; if you don't put the bolts on in the right order nothing fits properly. Hint: remember how you did it. When you change your thermostat, you won't have to take off all your belts if you remove the T-belt cover.
  7. me again. i took a look at the ics farther up and that hole looks way too big. if you have it all apart try to get the old spacer off and take a look at the rod. the sqeaky you had/have is the rod rubbing on the frame it looks like. that was my issue.
  8. 3/4 is about right, but i'm going by the width because mine are a but oval. P.O never changed 'em. the busshing not being welded should really affect anything. i used some 3/4 fender washers as replacement cup and torqued it to the max. in the range(108lbs i think). i haven't had any troubles more than some minor sqeakyness under very light stress. and i drive it like a race car. let me know if you have any trouble getting the rods back in tho. mine took about 3hrs a piece to put back.
  9. maybe when chew-proof plastics are invented
  10. never will I ever. The p.o used to and now i have two arm-rests made of electrical tape, scratched up carpet in the back, missing pieces of window tint, and enough gouges in the boot panels to make me want to rip it all out and rhino coat
  11. i've been looking at a set for my 89, to rplace a cracked manifold. do these things make any difference over the oem manifold?
  12. tranny #2 came with 178k and i've maybe put on another 7 or so. i'm not too sure cause my speedo broke and i've been lazy with it. T#1 was rebuilt in the 160k's, and blew up at 299. the P.O didn't know about the 5.1l thing and i wanted to push it until it stopped. man, that was the best rattle i've ever heard. too bad i didn't record it.
  13. you have 2 options. 1. find an empty parking lot. the trick is tromp on the gas for about 50m, then brake HARD. Really hard. 2. if that don't work. you'll have to get under your rig and findthe point where the main cable splits off to each drum, and where the left and right cables go into each drum. Then it's just like adjusting the hand brakes on a bicycle.
  14. For a year now, i've heard this gurgling noise from my engine compartment and could never figure out what it was. It sounded like someone trying to get that last bit of slurppy from the bottom of the cup. Anyway, i just found out that it was coming from my AIV box so I took a look, and didn't like what i found(for those that don't know, its the thing that looks like a land-mine behind the left headlight). I open this thing up and the filter in it looked like it was used to clean up a dirty oil spill. smelled pretty bad too, so out it came. I just put the box back without the filter and immediately i noticed a different smell to my exhaust; less bad stuff in it. And it sounds a little better. Just thought i'd share that in-case the newer owners of the older models had the same noise issue. But, I do have a question. Has anybody ripped this thing out yet or replaced with an electric air pump? My new headers don't have the hook up for this system, so i'm looking for some input. later ADM
  15. $9.37 in small coins. also, a laminated canadian tire emblem that i forgot about. the previous owner out it there for some reason and i just left it.
×
×
  • Create New...