Slartibartfast

What kind of interior mods? Instrumentation, radios, cargo shelves?

I'm not familiar with how it all mounts up, but I imagine there's some kind of rubber gasket that's supposed to go between the TB and the air cleaner. If the rubber is shot, then yes, it could very well suck in water there (and it probably is sucking in air). If there was a rubber bit, Rob might be able to find you one. Or you could just take the cleaner into an auto parts place and ask if they had a gasket that looks sorta like this. If you want to roll your own, some kind of RTV would probably do the job. Just make sure it's heat rated (fuel rated wouldn't hurt either). I'd stay away from non-hardening gasket goop since it would probably just squeeze out as the cleaner moved around.

Good luck with the test. I had no idea the TBI injectors were hard-wired!

The idle air system might be surging the motor in an attempt to keep it from stalling, but if the motor's warmed up, the idle air system can't kill it. I still say clean out the CTS plug... when mine did this, I cleaned the MAF and TPS plugs with no results, then wiggled some wires, and it went back to running properly for a year or so. Then it did it again. When I finally got around to checking the CTS plug, it had a bunch of blue copper in it. I cleaned the contacts, put some dielectric grease in there, and the engine hasn't stalled since. Basically a free fix.

OP, I have a plug there on my rig and it goes to the power antenna module (a clear plastic case to the rear of where the amps used to be). If I unplug it, the power antenna won't go up. The only difference is that yours looks to have seven wires, and mine only has five (the plastic body is the same). Probably just different revisions of the module. If there's no module there, and you don't have a power antenna, it's just spare wire. Maaakaaaa, the one on the far right (two wires) goes to your footwell light under the dash there. The two others, I'm not dead sure, but I think they have some kind of diagnostic function; mine has the same empty plugs in the same place.

I'm pretty sure the bolt pattern's the same, but yeah, the EGR bung is different. Hopefully somebody who knows headers better can fill in the rest. There are also OBX headers, but they won't fit unless you do a body lift.

Good to hear it's running better. How's the mileage? (Still on premium?)

My brake and ABS lights came on when my brake system ran out of fluid. If it's just the one light, then yeah, probably the switch on the e-brake needs adjustment. Sounds like the TBI is fairly particular about its intake. I'd put a wing nut on the cleaner (or a bit of hose and a clamp, it worked on my friend's van LOL) and stick that hose back on and see if it clears anything up.

^^True that. IIRC My1Path had an M30 ECU that had been dunked once corrode to uselessness in dry storage.

If you're looking for places to put LEDs, I put a crazy bright panel under my hood, wired to the alarm switch. It was originally for my dome light, but it just about fried my retinas when I'd open a door at night, so I swapped it for a warm-white panel about half its size. The warm white is about on par with the original bulb, and the bright white panel makes jumpstarting somebody else's car at night really easy.

The red looks good!

I'd try wire wheeling or just scraping with a screwdriver to get at some of the corrosion where the drum meets the hub, to make it easier to get oil in there and to make it slide easier when the BFH finally breaks it loose.

Discovered a mouse nest in the underhood insulation, mouse lice all over the outside of the truck, and live mice sitting around the battery and the parking lights watching me. It's been parked for less than a week. Anyone got some bull snakes you're not using?

Sounds like alignment, mine doesn't do that.

I think the drive flanges would fit, if your WD's CV shafts are 28 spline. If they're 27 spline (I don't remember when the change over happened, but I think it was later) then you're SOL. I remember a few people selling 27 spline hubs fairly cheap, having mistaken them for 28s at the wrecking yard, so maybe you could score some that way. Have you tested the autos? I'll be surprised if they still work at that mileage. Mine crapped out around 171k; they were always temperamental, and when I tried to service one of them, it bound up and started half-disengaging and grinding like mad when I drove in 2x. The clutches inside were worn way past tolerance. If you don't mind mucking around with the snap rings, I imagine you could pull an auto hub apart, pull out the bit that engages, engage it by force with pliers, wipe the grease out, and then re-install it with JB weld instead of grease.

If it's auto, a transmission cooler's a good idea. Yes, you can do a cheap lift via T-bar crank. IIRC Fleurys is working on rear spring spacers for the WD21. The other option is Jeep springs with the pigtails cut off (there are a few threads around of people talking about which ones give the most lift). I think most people swap out the rear shocks while they're at it for better flex. One thing to keep in mind is that the steering arrangement in these starts bending things when lifted, so an idler arm brace is probably a good idea. I'd also check on/replace the strut rod bushings. If they're original, and they have 250k plus on them, they're more than likely shot. If the rods they support rub on the frame long enough they can wear through.

Weird that it's not coding... seems like if the injector connections were bad, it would throw a code for injector function, and if the camshaft position sensor or something was bad, it would throw a code for that (and I don't imagine it would run on ether). I'd check the coolant temp sensor and its harness on the off chance that it's sending such bad temp info that the computer's leaning the mix to nothingness, but that seems like a long shot. Looks like the chip keys started halfway through 1999, so that's not your issue. I guess your alarm system might still think it's been stolen and be telling the computer not to start, but it seems like an odd coincidence to happen right after an engine swap. Double check your ignition wiring I guess, there's gotta be a plug not seated right or something. Good luck!

The EL section of the '95 manual (there's a download link around here somewhere) has a troubleshooting procedure under "Automatic Speed Control Device" (because they couldn't just call it cruise control and be done with it). Looks like all you need is a multimeter.

I added fluid through the dipstick hole. Use a funnel, obviously, or it'll go all over the exhaust.

Sorry, checked the manual again, the .5v AC test is correct. Sorry to cause confusion. It's drawn like a reed switch for some reason. The 200VAC setting might be too high to read half a volt. I would try putting it on lower voltage DC (about 20V on my unit) and then look for any reading at all. The numbers it gives you probably won't be correct, but if it doesn't register at all, you can probably assume the sensor's toast.

Having grabbed both battery terminals (on multiple occasions) without even a tingle, I have to ask, how are you guys getting shocked off the starter wiring?

I haven't messed with tire sizes/spacers but I imagine your rims (and their offset) will play heavily into this. I'd be inclined to do the lift, fit the tires, and then have a look at clearances. Hopefully somebody running a similar setup knows more about it.

My understanding is that the VSS is a simple reed switch. I'd put the meter on ohms (continuity setting if it has one, so it beeps when the circuit's closed), turn the gear, and see if the circuit opens/closes as you turn the gear.

If your hubs are locked, you should be able to go between 2HI and 4HI without stopping, provided there's no slippage when you do it. I've done this going from clear roads to snowy ones a bunch of times. So long as you shift before you need it (while the front and rear diffs are spinning at the same speed), and the front hubs are locked (again so that the front and rear diffs are speed matched), it should go in no problem. If the rears are slipping already, or your hubs aren't locked in, you'll have to stop before shifting, or the transfer selectors will just grind and refuse to go in.

Kind of comes down to where you want to drive your rig. If it's 90% pavement, a SFD might be overkill, and spacers/rock sliders might serve you better. Lights are good (I've got a pair on mine) but again, depends on how you'll use them. I aimed mine off to the sides to pick out deer and see around sharp corners, and they're great for that. If I face them forward, I can barely tell they're on. What I'm saying is, make sure you get stuff you'll use.