Slartibartfast

1, 3, and 5 are real easy to get to (those are the ones you can see). 2 and 4 aren't too bad. 6 can be a real pain. If you happen to have the factory tool kit, the included spark plug tool is supposed to work pretty well on 6, but I haven't tried that--a couple extenders and a U joint have always been enough for me. Getting it to thread back in is harder than getting it out. Not rocket surgery, just fiddly. Check your MAF sensor while you're at it, when they get dirty you get mixture issues. Not too hard to clean if you're careful about it. You can get MAF cleaner in a can, but I cleaned mine with denatured alcohol and the corner of a rag and it went fine. Just don't use any cleaner that'll leave a residue and treat those filaments like they're made of glass.

There is one visual test. With the engine cold, take the radiator cap off and start the engine. If you see bubbles coming up out of the radiator, you have a breached head gasket. There's also a chemical test you can run on the coolant to see if there's exhaust gas dissolved in it. How does the oil look? That filler tube goes down quite a ways before it meets the tank. Usually streaking means the gas station nozzle was still dribbling when you pulled it out. I would wipe the residue off the fender, put the cap back on, and see if the gas streak comes back. No vacuum to the carbon can probably isn't helping matters but I doubt it's pushing gas out around the cap. I also doubt it killed your catalyst. I don't remember the size of the vac lines, but if you just take one of the other lines in with you, the parts place should be able to match it. You might as well get 5-6' of the stuff do all the vac lines, vac line is cheap and the originals tend to be dried up and cracked. There's supposed to be a little tit sticking out of the intake hose where the allen wrench is (somebody clearly snapped it off) so you'll want to try and track down a fitting for that too--I would be surprised if the same parts place didn't have a little barb or something that fits in the hole so you can hook that vac line back up.

You might check the underside of the hood for a vacuum routing diagram, I know there's one on mine. If I'm remembering right and yours is carbureted, it's not going to match the vac routing for US models. The thing on the firewall looks like a solenoid valve to me, but I have no idea what it would be controlling, so I don't know what effect it would have. If you run out of ideas, you might just pull that line towards the motor, see where it ends, and look for anything it could be going to in that general area... carbon can, intake, carb, vacuum advance on the dizzy, something like that. It must've come from somewhere.

I think he meant the output shaft seal on the trans. That would be flinging fluid at right angles to the output shaft, and unless there's something in the way stopping it from ending up on the driver's side, my money's still on the cooler line.

No idea--never had to replace mine. Might be a dealer thing. Any chance of reusing the one off the old cable?

I used a very delicate and technical method that involved beating the crap out of them with the BFH. Take the clip out, beat the pin one direction, beat it the other direction, once it breaks free and starts to move you're mostly there. You might be able to move the pin with vise grips after it's broken loose, but it really is amazing how hard those things lock up. I even tried breaking one free using the door as leverage (welded without breaking loose) and quickly realized I was going to tweak the door long before that pin came loose. Luckily I hadn't welded it on very well and a few good hits broke it free. If you take a piece of steel rod and drill a little divot in the end, you've got a punch that'll stay on the pointy end of the pin, mostly. I would've used an air hammer if I'd had one at the time, but then I probably would've slipped and put speed holes in the A-pillar with it. And yeah, whatever grease you've got lying around should do fine. I used super sticky synthetic marine schmoo on the driver's side, because it was apart, and 10W30 on the passenger's side because it wasn't and I couldn't be arsed.

I tried that on my last rig, but wasn't sure what to hook them to and didn't want to glue them, so the screen didn't do a whole lot. Looks like the new grilles come with cross bars molded into them to accomplish the same thing.

Oil goes in this hole, coolant goes in that hole, brake fluid goes in that hole, hot dogs go in this hole right here. It's tuned for Oscar Meyer, though, it tends to ping if I put store-brand in there. I've read claims that an HHO setup somehow boosts engine efficiency enough to offset the added load on the alternator, but never fooled with it myself, apart from once when I was a kid and made a basic electrolysis rig out of a mustard jar so I could blow something up. The only real hazard I've read about is the obvious one where the jar explodes. No idea what it would do to the air/fuel ratios.

Nice to see they stood behind it, anyway. Hopefully the OEM stuff goes in easier.

Fair warning, the opening is kind of a pain to get to. That's why I ended up sticking my finger in there with a gob of seam sealer.

^^ That's where I'd start, I can't think of where else it would be coming from.

The part of the door where it goes over the wheel well? I'd take the door off and set it on a table so you can see what you're doing, pull the trim panel so you don't set fire to it, and make sure there's no wiring right behind the rust. Then cut until there's no more rust, beat a piece of sheet metal into the rough shape of the hole you left, and weld it up. Hopefully it's not rotted through into the outer skin.

If you remove the cluster surround, and the cluster, you should see the speedo cable sticking in behind where the speedo should be with a square end on it. That end should spin as you drive. If it doesn't, either the cable is bad or the little gear on the end has failed.

The ones on the cowl? You'll need a pick or a little Phillips and six zip ties. Each grille is held down by three little rectangular-topped clip fasteners, and each of those has a circular bit in the middle. Press down on the circular bit and the clip releases. If you're careful, and lucky, you can reuse those clips. The other 364 days of the year, you put the grilles back on with the zip ties. If you remove the black plastic cover under the passenger's side grille and look in at the right angle, you can see into your blower. I glued a piece of wire screen over that hole after a mouse took a crap in my blower. It'll probably keep the pine needles out, too.

I got them on eBay. Don't get them on eBay. Each kit I found had two identical plates that were apparently driver's lower and passenger's upper. I have no idea why they were being sold like this, or why I had to do so much looking around to find the matching kit with the driver's upper and passenger's lower. When I did find the second set, they were Taiwanese and clearly manufactured by someone who'd never seen a Pathfinder before, and the door wouldn't close right until I shimmed it out. Even then, it was never quite right, and of course the hinge pins stripped right out the first time I opened the door. It was enough to make me consider tearing the other door off and going Jeep style. If you have to get new plates, it looks like factorynissanparts has them for $30 each. At least the holes would be in the right places. Or do what I did on my '93. Replace the pins, replace the bushings if they need it (I replaced the lower bushings on the driver's side since they'd worn down against the hinge plate), jack up the back corner of the door until the hinge pins slide to the end of the wallered-out slot where the hole's supposed to be, then weld them there. I didn't even replace anything on the passenger's side, just broke the pins loose, lubed them, and then welded them down. Worked great!

Yep, I was thinking of the wrong part! I don't know for sure but the PN you posted looks like it should be the right bit. The body repair manual might come in handy.

Bad bearings won't do you brakes any favors, but if it didn't grind until you did the brakes, I'd have a look at the pads and make sure you didn't get one in backwards.

I think the info's in here somewhere. Test it before buttoning it up, I remember I had the LEDs backwards the first time I put mine together... don't remember if the diagram was backwards or if I derped on which way they were supposed to go.

Auto's just a position on the dial, so unplugging the dial would mean you'd have to plug it in again to make it do anything. Easier to just remember that you have to lock the hubs in before moving the dial.

You're looking to repair the step bars? Looks like the part number you posted is for the rocker panel, not the step bar. I'd be very surprised if anyone makes a repair kit for the step bar. Most people just chuck them when they get rotten and run without. That's what the PO of my rig did, and I can't say I've missed them. You might be able to get them repaired, but rather than spend money on the stock junk, I'd be inclined to look for a set of aftermarket bars or even upgrade to rock sliders that won't crush if hit from below.

Round or square dash? And yeah, you can just push the passenger's seat all the way forward and get at the ECU if you don't mind squatting down, though IIRC there might be a cover on the ECU that makes things more challenging. If you do have to pull the seat, it's just four bolts. If you have butt toasters, then it's four bolts and a clip. Keep in mind that the computer only codes if it realizes that something is wrong, and it's not the most perceptive unit. There's a writeup over on Infamous Nissan for building a code checker that'll plug right into the factory diagnostic port under the dash. Not necessary by any stretch but I hooked it up on mine with two LEDs and a button on the dashboard--should make running codes a whole lot easier if/when I have to track something down. I don't think it would run if you had something 180° out.

I imagine the wrench is marked about as far as it's accurate, and it's probably less accurate at the far ends as it is. Unless you have something critical that needs a torque spec in between the ranges of your two wrenches, I wouldn't worry about picking up a third wrench unless you've got something in particular that needs to be torqued within that range.

It could be that the circuitry just waits for a current spike on the motor circuit. When the window tops or bottoms out, the motor stalls, and the amperage spike tells whatever's controlling the motor that its job is done. I suspect that's how the power antenna works.

Hopefully she fires up again--and hopefully your new tensioner lasts longer than the old one!

Crank angle sensor's in the dizzy. I doubt you'd hear the T-belt going out over the sound of the engine running. But hopefully it's not that!