The_Magicians_Eye

I think you may have missed the part about not wanting to lift it 3". My pathy is stock height right now and I don't want to go any higher than maybe 1.5" if that. I'm just trying to get a stiffer spring that will keep it from sagging with out dropping $200 on some springs that might not do what I want. I just want to know if I cut the JGC springs that much will I get what I'm looking for? I know when you cut springs they spring rate changes. That's why I'm asking.

Ok first off I searched for 2 days for the answer with no luck. Does anyone have a side by side pic of a JGC spring not cut next to a stock Pathy rear spring (90-95)? Does anyone know the spring rate on the JGC springs? Has anyone attempted to cut these springs even more to give a closer to stock high lift with more load holding ability (i.e. heavy armor, gear, and towing)? Here is my issue. With the addition of my rock slider, bumpers, roof rack, and full size steal wheel spare my stock springs are sagging to much. I'm hitting the bump stops and it's causing a rough ride. I know my springs are 21 years old so just replacing them with new ones should help a little. I know about the EMU medium duty springs. I hear great things about them but after shipping I'll be sitting at around $200 and still not sure if these will suit my needs. That's a pretty big gamble. I'd rather gamble with some $20 to $40 junk yard Jeep springs than $200. I do not want a 3 inch lift. I can deal with a 1.5 inch lift after settling but I worry that. I worry that the EMU springs will put me back to stock specs due to the additional weight and then sag once I hookup my trailer. I've thought about the AC 1.5" lift springs but they won't tell me the spring rate. They are worried I'll take that number and get springs from someone else. What do you guys think? What would you do if you were in my shoes? If the JGC springs are similar in spring rate as the EMU springs after being cut to the height I'd need then I'd like to try that option. That's a nice chunk of money I'd be saving doing that. All the pics I've seen of the EMU springs after the initial install look great. However I saw some pics of one of those pathys loaded in the back and it saw sagging. That's without a trailer or armor. By the way what is the year range of JGC that I should be looking for. I know I need one with a V8 but not sure if ALL V8 JGC regardless of year have the same front springs or not. Thank you for the help. I hope I didn't ask to many questions that have been answered before.

Any more out there? Thanks for those links, the give me some good idea's!

From what I understand the stock spring, MD, and HD springs are the same length. The reason they give a "lift" has nothing to do with length but has everything to do with spring rate. The more weight the spring can hold the less it will settle when the weight of the truck is put on it. That's were you get the "lift". If your ride is always holding more weight than stock like mine is. These MD or HD springs may only put you back to stock height due to the extra weight. They say it will give you lift but that's only if your ride is stock weight. Make sense? The question is do you need the MD or HD spring to get the height you're looking for. I'm running into that problem myself. I don't think we'll know until we buy the springs. Unfortunately I'm not sure if the people selling springs will let you return them if they aren't what you want. I was thinking about getting 1.5 inch lift stock spring rate spring just because they are cheaper and with the amount of weight I plan on adding it might balance out after the springs sag from the weight.

That's because I have very high expectations of myself as a photographer lol. I know what I'm capable of doing and then I get lazy I feel like I should apologize for being a slacker lol. I was thinking about that but I'm not sure how much air they would hold so I'm going to just add an air tank someplace else.

Me and a buddy built my rock sliders today and started on my rear bumper. Sorry about the crap cell phones pics. I'll take better ones tomorrow. Sliders are made of 1/4 inch thick 2" square tube. The mounting plated are 1/4 thick 2"x3" tube that was cut into L shapes. They are 67" long. The end were cut at 45s and capped off. Nothing much more to say, they are as basic as they come. Oh I welded them to the frame. The rear bumper is in progress. I wanted a hitch mount placed into the bumper for clearance while wheeling. The current one hangs way to low. As of right now we used 2"x3" 1/4 inch thick tube to create the mount. The tube slide right into the frame so I opted to go that route for a mount and an overall base for the bumper. We're using 3/16" plate for the surface of the bumper. We currently need to cut and install the top plate and the corners. The bottom will have about 1 inch of surface that angles in at a 45. I'm not sure when I'll be able to finish up the bumper but I'll post better pics when I get back to work on it and start a new thread with more details.

Thank you for the pics. I was thinking something in the middle of those two designs. The first one is a full on tube chassis with Pathy drive train the other is still a little to much original body. However OfftourRoadie96 do you have any more pics of that ride. Possibly a build thread? And are those 2.5 Rockwells under that ride? If so I really want some detailed pics of the suspension setup.

Anyone have any pics of rock buggies built off the pathy frame? I found one someplace but couldn't find much info on it or the build. I've been giving some real thought into doing this but I'd like to see some design ideas from people that have ventured down that path.

Any better pics of the scout?

Anyone have any custom boxes built to replace the 6x9 pods in the back of their pathy. For those that don't have your speakers mounted in the headliner. I've been really giving some thought into doing this. I want a sub but I don't want it taking up valuable space in the back. Plus those big ass speaker boxes scream "steal my @!*%". Was thinking about mounting a 10 on one side and putting an amp on the other side. Then using some fiber glass to build a nice smooth mount on top that faces a little toward the front for some 6.5s. Figured this would be a nice clean look that wont attract attention while not loosing any space.

Mine is just like this. I have a 91.

Do they really measure to 33's or do they fall short like some other Interco tires I've seen?

I vote for lifters and or heavy wear on your rocker shafts.

What size of Boggers are you running?

Yes please post pics of the whole system from start to finish so I can compare it to my pathy. I want cup holders damn it! lol tired of balancing my drinks on the side of the parking brake lever. Thank you I never even thought about this as an option. I love the idea so thanks again.

Why did you go through all the trouble with this 44 vs going with the Waggy axle? What's the advantage?

What did you pull the high pinion 44 out of?

I'm pretty sure you just have a LSD. It's very common on our trucks. Hell sometimes you get lucky and have that happen even with an open dif. If there is no sticker on the dif the says LSD then jack the rear end up and spin one tire. If the other tire spins in the same direction you have a LSD. If it goes backward you have an open dif. Most of the lockers out there make a clunking noise when turning. It's the locker disengaging and allowing one tire to spin faster than the other. If you've never heard this you more than likely don't have a locker.

LSD have clutches in them. They don't "lock" or "engage". Just like the clutch on a trans if you apply enough force it will slip. From what I have read I have to assume that the LSD in our trucks is pretty week and doesn't take much force to get the clutches to slip. I'm sure Nissan intentionally designed it this way for a better feel while on paved roads and less tire wear. I've read that you can tighten them up some how. I forget what they are doing to accomplish this but it will help it from slipping so easily. However there is a trade off. It will wear out your tires faster and you'll feel it every time you turn a corner on pavement. In low traction situations it will potentially cause the rear end to brake loose and slide out from under you while turning if you're on the gas. I use to have a real tight LSD in a Malibu that I had. When the roads where slick I had to be really careful not to apply to much power in a turn. The ass end would brake loose quick. Granted our trucks don't have nearly as much power as that car did lol. Honestly I have a LSD in my Pathy and I have plans to remove it and replace it with an air locker. When it comes time to wheel I don't want to always worry that I'm going to pickup a tire and come to a complete stop. That and I don't want the trade off of tightening up the LSD. Tires are expensive and will eventually cost more than an air locker.

You did what I want to do to my Pathy. I want a coil SAS but don't want to lift it like the others. Hell I don't even want bigger tires. Maybe 32s just to help correct the Odometer but that's it. Wish you where in AZ man. I'd have my ride over at your place within a couple months. What did you pull the high pinion 44 out of? Maybe I can talk you into building and shipping me some parts to complete my sas when I'm ready?

Yes I fueled up in Colorado. I was there from Friday after noon until Monday morning. So how do I reset the ECU for next time?

The reason the bar has to be flat is to avoid a back and forth shift in upward travel. If the bar is flat at ride height when you hit a bump the axle will only slightly shift in one direction in the up travel. If you have a lift without this dropped mount the axle will shift slightly in one direction at the start of the up travel and then in the other direction at the end of the upward travel. It will cause an unstable feeling in the rear end. I hope that made sense lol?

So the family and I decided to battle out the snow storm that his NM and CO over the Christmas weekend. Something really bugged me during the trip. There was a drastic loss in power in my pathy. Yes I know elevation always plays a factory in engine power. I learned that at a very young age. However even with the truck completely unloaded and only me in the truck it still felt like I was dragging another car behind me. The drop in power was drastic to say the least. Maybe I'm stupid but I always thought Fuel injection systems helped fix this problem. I know for sure it was an elevation issue because even when fully loaded when I got back into Phoenix everything felt great. Or should I say normal lol. There is no way on the planet that Nissan could have sold a single one of these trucks in high elevation cities with the power loss that I felt up there. Keeping in mind that my truck was originally a Colorado truck. Any suggestions, ideas, or ???? that can help me understand and hopefully fix this problem? I have a problem spinning the tires on dirt roads. That's how bad it is.