RF600

And I thought I was going to see clothes flying.

I pulled the intake to do the iac a while back and don't recall any hoses that were bad. It's possible though. I would have to look again at the hoses.

A bit of an update. While the main bucking was fixed with the vac line back on I do still have some bucking at 3k rpm's. I did a full tune up and it flew through the smog check. The slight bucking now is not a really big deal at this point. I am gathering parts for the timing belt and clutch. After that is done I will attempt to figure out what is causing the bucking. I have a feeling im looking at the distributor. Considering I have put very little money into it I can't really complain.

Well I think I found out what was wrong. I got lucky and saw it. A bad vac hose from the back of the intake to the fpr. The ends were hard and cracking. I drove it around the block real quick to see if it was still bucking at 2500-3000 rpm. It didn't do it. Blame it on dumb luck.

I will check the coolant temp sensor. I checked the marks on the pulley vs where the piston comes up. I don't know if the first or second mark is tdc. I didn't have any movement between the two marks. if there was I couldn't tell from where I marked my screw driver. I have to smog this thing before the end of the month and obviously running out of time.

Finally got a timing light and was hoping to check the timing. The manual shows 6 marks. My pulley has 7 marks. My underhood sticker says it should be 15* btdc. The manual says 10* btdc. The manual says there should be a red mark which should be tdc. I don't have a red mark. I am in California so maybe that is why the timing is supposed to be set at 15? If the manual is correct and the second mark is tdc, I can only get the timing to read 5 btdc. I can't turn the distributor any more. So I need to know which mark is the tdc on the pulley.

First car was a Ford Granada. It was free. Traded it in and got screwed. Young and dumb 88 Sentra. Put over 100k on it. Sold it. 72 K5 Blazer I got from my dad. Sold it. 68 Camaro. Big block, TH400. Miss that car. sold it 87 4x2 Chevy pickup. Lowered it. Sold it to a friend. 87 Chrysler Conquest. Picked it up with a blown motor. Runs like a top now. A lot of time and effort and i'm not done yet. Currently gathering parts for a 240sx front suspension swap. 95 Pathfinder. Picked it up for $1300 Almost forgot. Pick it up about 5 years ago. This is for the nicer days. 98 TL1000R. It didn't look like this when I got it.

I will be borrowing a timing light tomorrow. In the mean time I have been looking around the net and saw that one guy ended up replacing his distributor. Granted this was a 99 Pathfinder. Many people have basically replaced a lot of things and it did not fix the issue. So is it possible that I could be looking at a distributor? Is there a way to check it while i'm looking at the timing?

Sweet, thanks. I will check the timing as soon as I can. I will report back with what I found.

No check engine light. I had a iacv go bad a while ago. I replaced the regulator along with the iacv. If there were any vac lines that were bad when I took the upper plenum off were replaced. I don't recall having any issues after that. You know after something is replaced you pay attention a little more than normal to noises and things. I really don't know where to start looking for the stutter i'm having.

Mushroomhead -- Xeroxed

The beads on the flux core machines don't always look good. For the money I would get it and practice. Then when you get some money saved up you can upgrade.

95 with a little over 200,000

I have searched and really not seen topics that are similar to mine. I will do my best to explain. I have a '95 with a M/T. I will be driving and it acts like a fuel cut or sputter. It only happens when the rpm's are around 2500 to 3000. When the tach wants to work. If you let off the throttle or give it more throttle it will go away. It doesn't matter what gear you are in. It will idle fine, no miss. No check engine light. I have pulled the maf and cleaned it. I have looked at the cap and rotor and cleaned them up. Fuel filter replacement has not changed anything. Clogged injectors? Bad coil? Any ideas?

True. Better solid than rusted

I'm sure most of you know that frames don't like angles cut in them. That is why the holes in frames are round. Just be careful if you are just patching in a small section in the middle of the frame rail.

Yup! The ones I have are 7" & 8". They are a little rough. I forget what the offset is. I took them off and am now running 18's.

I took off the stock wheels and they are just sitting.

When the weather is nice I ride a TL1000R. My car is a '87 Chrysler Conquest.

Not sure if these vehicles are the same, on other vehicles i'm familiar with, when you turn on the defroster the a/c comp cycles. If it does cycle when the def is turned on, I don't know what effect it will have not cycling.

Mime doesn't work.

The tps on my other car you check the sweep. The volts comes into play when setting it. I have not had to set the one on my pathfinder. I would assume all tps checks are that way

Have you removed the dome lamp and clean the connectors? Not where the bulb connects but where the contacts are for Maybe some corrosion has built up. Try some electrical parts cleaner on the contacts where you switch from manual, door, or off.

I tried turning it off but the light on the dash would come on and the lights at my feet would be on. I'm pretty sure it is the rear latch. Rather than leave it and risk forgetting it is on I just unplugged it. That way I don't need to worry about it.

I'm pretty sure it needs reprogramed