DCgabel

I beg to differ. i have Rancho RS5000 shocks on my R50 right now and i ordered them right from the manufactures and they were specifically for an R50. said right on the page. And they have caused me no grief. rides like a champ.

Hmm lets just say i get S#!T per Mile. im from Canada and ive had no more than 430kms on my 80 litre tank. And that was before the lift. Dont know yet since i just finished my lift so i have yet to find out. Cost me about 90-95$ dollars CDN at 1.30 a litre. So ya..BAD fuel mileage, but its the price we pay for driving bad a$$ trucks.

15inch keystones $440ish for the set of four.

Your Bull Bar..You still have it? (interested)

I have a clutch problem similar to this except it only happens when i go into reverse. Ill be backing up and ill press down the clutch pedal and here the worst sound ive heard from my truck and it continues after i have stopped moving and have put the truck in neutral and still have the pedal pressed down. but when i take my foot off the clutch pedal it stops right away. After that i press down on the clutch pedal while the truck is standing still and the noise does not happen again.. this happens regularly and i dont know what on earth is causing it(and the clutch is not that old, 20000kms old at most)

if you want a higher lift you can go to krfabs.com they have a four+ inch lift kit you can purchase

Do you hear the sound whenever you go over bumps? Because i know that when i had the stock suspension in my R50 my rear shocks were toast so whenever i went over a bump my my spring would top out and hit my bump stops.

When i had twenty eight inch tires and no lift i got 265 miles to a tank. now i have a four inch lift with thirty twos. so im expecting worse.

Hence the reason for the sub frame drop.

and....i was having trouble uploading material.

looks like one from this angle but no.

Alright, so this is how my pathy looked before i started this is what it looks like now.Stock fender height was 32inchs, now im sitting just above 38. from the four inch block i spaced the sub frame plus the tires.(went from stock 28s to 32s) This is how i supported the front end so i could lower the sub frame. I put jack stands behind the front wheels and on the frame rails just behind the rad on either side of the truck just so it would prevent the truck frame from sagging(more or less a piece of mind because i left it up on stands for four days,cuz that's how many evening its took me to complete it) When i was done that, i removed the front struts. first i unclipped the break lines from the strut shaft and then disconnected my sway bar. after that, i took out the two bolts fastening my struts to the hub and the three bolts at the top which i unscrewed from inside the engine bay. I then used ratchet straps to keep weight of my balls joints and put blocks of wood under my control arms to keep my CVs from binding. once the struts were out i unfastened the CV axle to get at the engine mounts. there are four bolts on either side that hold the CV axle to the sub frame.(i used the jack that came with the truck to lower the axle because i needed my only other jack for the sub frame) I actually unscrewed the passenger side engine bolts first before i did this. it wasn't until i came to the driver side and took a look at how tight everything was that i realized id have to drop my CV axle. I had to use an extension and a pivot head socket connector to work around the CV axle after i lowered the it. So, when i finally had the engine lose i cut some 4x4 blocks and put them under my oil pan to support the weight of the engine.I put one under my tranny as well just because i didn't quite trust my oil pan. After that, i went around to the front and took the bolts out of the bracket that the skid plate was connected to.(there was only four) I then unclipped the rack and pinion sensor, unfastened the power steering hose(didn't disconnect them, just loosened the brackets) unclipped the breather tube and took out the steering link. I braced the steering wheel up using some 2x4s so it wouldn't move on me when i put the new steering link in. So when that was all done i slid my jack under the sub frame. i cut a 2x4 the length of the sub frame just so the jack was resting against wood and not directly against the frame. I then took out all eight bolts holding the sub frame.(four bolts per side) Once i lowered the sub frame i fasted my engine blocks to the engine. i didn't torque the bolts, i just lightly threaded the bolts on. I bolted all four of my sub frame blocks on the truck itself(not the sub frame) again just threading the bolts so that all the blocks were fairly lose. i brought the sub frame back up to the blocks and lined everything up using a long shank screw driver and torqued all the bolts on.(BUT, before i torqued the bolts i installed my new steering link. the sub frame was tight to the underside of the truck before i did this) once all the blocks were in and bolts were tight, i reconnected the sensor and the breather tube.(i had to get a longer tube because the old one was too short) i could have extended my power steering tubes to but i didn't, ill more than likely do it later.(also i still have to rotate my steering rack because it rotated a little when i dropped my sub frame as you can see in the picture above) So when i was done with the sub frame, i bolted my strut spacers on my struts nice and tight and threw my struts back in. I reconnected my sway bar and put my extended brake lines in.(i know i dont have my lines in yet in this picture but it was taken before. I also cleaned up my springs a little so they would match the ones im putting in my rear. I am currently working on the my rear part of my lift.

as of now this is what my R50 looks like.

What size bolts came with the kit to bolt on the blocks? they like two inch grade eights?

You know where i can get new links? and as for the drive shaft, i know its possible to buy spacers. you know where i could get one for the pathy specifically? thanks

i was wondering if you could tell me how tall were the spacers on your kit exactly? could you possibly email me the specs? dylangabel@hotmail.com id really appreciate it. thanks

question. could i weld/adjust the rear coil adapter-spacers so that i make the pathy sit level? just notice that your is 42 on the front and 40 on the back. possible?

Third picture down. the black things that would sit under your springs. are they the Wj coil adapters that come with subframe drop kit on krfabs.com?

looks sick man. nice job. im getting the same struts and shocks priced out right now. how much did they cost you? the Ranchos and KYBs?

i think i can figure out how to lift my r50 for free aside from the extended brake lines and steering shaft since dont want to use a block spacer which im not a fan of. do you know the exact measurements of the blocks? the four sub frame blocks, strut spacers and engine spacers? if you could that would be awesome help.oh ya and what pitch are the strut spacers on? this would be awesome help if you have a way of finding out. thanks

these things you made for your jeep coils do they sub as the Wj coil adaptors they have in the kit from Krfabs.com?

so say i keep the stock springs on my pathy. could i in theory make your contraption a little taller to gain the height of the new springs you have so the truck will sit just as high as yours?

k right on thanks man.