squam1

yes - use a relay - cheap insurance for protecting the wiring, battery, etc... it's the right way to do it and not all that difficult to do. better safe than sorry!

http://members.cardomain.com/squam1

yup, I have 16x7 black steel rims (american racing 767's) with 0 offset, which, if memory serves, is the same as 4 inches of backspacing. Ordering zero offset for that size is the way to go. I have 235/85/16 BFG All terrains which are 1/10 of an inch from a true 32 inches tall...

my thought exactly - get a locker instead... why bother with the possible issues that come up with rebuilds?

I would be eternally greatful if he could build a rear bumper with tire carrier for the R50!!! it would be perfect if he could use your truck for fitment... I'd do it around here, but I have no idea where to look for a competent shop in MA to build a bumper for me. I'd like to try and do it myself, but I don't know where to get the steel, how I would go about cutting and bending, and oh yeah, I don't know how to weld...

found this hitch mount one as well... http://www.mpioneer.com/mp_spare_tire_carrier.asp

here's a pic...

http://www.kaymar.com.au/nispath.html

Good point!! If it's already up to temp - THE SYSTEM IS FULLY PRESSURIZED!!! The coolant will turn to steam, as well as splash all over you and burn the heck out of you!!! Do not open the radiator cap AFTER the engine has been running... bad bad bad bad bad bad

it's generally known as "burping" the cooling system - you operate the engine with the radiator cap off as the engine and fluids heat up. Having the system open allows the coolant to circulate through the whole engine when the thermostat opens up. If you have the cap on the radiator, the system is closed and no place for air to escape. It's called burping cause if there is a bunch of air in there, it will make a "burp" noise when the air bubble finally pops out of the open radiator. If you don't let it warm up enough to open the thermostat, then no burp...

can't wait to see the pics!

could it be your fan hitting the fan shroud? Doesn't the shroud move up with the body while the fan remains in the stock position (obviously!) - dunnow though - I've never done a body lift...

dunno bout any connection between the light and the oil consumption, but that sounds more than a little excessive!! Sounds like you have a major issue on your hands in fact. A half quart in 6k miles might be more like it for the 3.5L

new strut being installed today - hopefully done at a reasonable hour... they're letting us out of work early today, but don't know if the truck will be done by then... anyway - glad to have it over and done with without having the front suspension let go on the hway!!

At this point, I wouldn't worry bout it unless it comes back on and stays on. Could have been a number of things. If it is an issue, the light should stay on. If the light isn't on, I'm not sure you can pull codes to even see what the problem is, but I could be wrong on that one.

I looked through everything and I'm pretty sure there were no shims. I called AC today for another reason (more on that in a sec) and Mike said that I need to get some tubing or some other "sleeve" to put into the top bushing to make it fit right... need to figure out what I need and how to go about that... However - about the friend installing the kit - I do believe the monkeys he has working for him killed one of the front struts. Not think, I know they did. The main piston threads are destroyed and stripped to hell. Consequently, I had to rent a car for the 40 mile ride home tonight cause my truck is having a sleep over at a garage near work. fun fun fun - need to get a new strut tomorrow, but will be bringing the stock replacement just in case they can't get a hold of the right kyb tomorrow. We shall see.

try this: http://65.166.200.170/ubbthreads/dosearch.php

has anyone had any issues with the AC lift with the Bilstein shocks? I have no real issues with the springs, but the shocks they sent me don't have the right size bushings on the top mount of the shock. Should I be taking the stock bushing out of the stock shock and putting it in the Bilstein? When I had my buddy install the lift, he just slapped the shocks on there and they banged and smacked around until I figured out what the "THUNKING" noise was coming from the rear suspension... just wondering what anyone's experience has been speicifically with the rear shocks! My truck is an 02, so don't know if the top shock mounts are different....

I discovered that after my lift, the cv joints were at a pretty steep angle and had some vibrations at highway speeds... The manual hubs fixed that... and I definitely noticed the difference in drag on the front part of the drivetrain. Those hubs free'd up the front quite well

you could do pretty well offroad with a rear locker, some aggressive tires and the lift kit... if you really wanted to try some tuff stuff, but be quite a bit slower, you could get a winch on the front too... that's always good insurance!!

um, my guess is no....?!?!?!

what year did Nissan make the switch from 31 spline to 33 spline? Was it when they went to the monoframe (Nissan speak for unibody)? Or are there R50s from 96 or so that have 31 spline axles?? guess the real question would be is the rear suspension (mounts etc) all the same as well as the width of the axle. Like you said, ABS would have to be a consideration if you would like to keep that feature

I have the westin safari bar at the moment and it mounts to the tow hook mounts/locations. The two lower mounts share the bolts for the stock tow hooks...

depending on how long the pathy sat for, there can be issues with flat spots that form while they sit in lots, at the port, on trucks, etc... There could be a bad belt on a tire, but doubtful if the vibration is very light. More than likely a quick balance by the dealer is all that's needed to correct the issue. Those 17" bridgestone duellers are very compliant and smooth tires and you really shouldn't have any vibration issues whatsoever - particularly with so few miles on it. Given that it is a minor vibration - as stated above - go back to the dealer. If you bought it new, they will want to do everything they can to make you happy since you will be receiving a customer sat survey via phone or mail soon... they want you to be happy so that you give a good score. good score for them = more dealer $$ incentives and step programs... bad score = Nissan doesn't give them additional dollars and they are not as competitive in your area... trust me, they want a good score so they will get right on it is my guess...

my '02 fuel filter looks exactly the same as yours does, so maybe they were mistaken when they told you that. But then again, maybe it's true for the vehicles made in the US - Frontiers, Altimas, XTerras, etc... The maximas (up to 03) and the Pathfinder (up to 04) were made in Japan still...