devonianwalk

I have enough basic wrench skills but, I don't have a heavy enough lift or a paved pad to do it on. Good idea on the fluid. I'll make sure that is taken care of. Thanks! Yeah, I bought the spacers from a memeber here on the forum. I picked up some schedule 8 extended bolts. They are larger than the stock bolts so he's going to bore the original strut mount holes to accommodate them.

Busted rubber brake line! Good call Simon. Heat ruined the pad(s) so now I have to replace both sides and replace the rotors as they are too worn to turn them. Throw in replacing the busted line and having him install the NX4 strut spacers while he is "in the area" will set me back $800. Thank goodness for my "rainy day" savings account! *sigh*

Thanks. Will check. I did look at the fluid level at the main cylinder and it looked fine though.

Okie-dokie. I'm sitting here on the side of the road waiting for a friend with a car trailer to come and rescue me and my Pathy. On my way into work this morning I started to feel a slight wobble in my steering wheel progressively get worse as I drove on. After six miles or so I hit my first red light. As I applied the brakes my truck pulled hard to the left. I noticed a funky smell and smoke coming from the front passenger side wheel. After letting it cool down I started the engine. My brake pedal instantly went all the way to the floor. I shut the engine off and was able to build pressure back up by pumping the brakes. I then started the engine again and lost all pressure again. Any ideas or thoughts on what I should look for before handing her over to my mechanic would be greatly appreciated!

Dayum! At least it looks good for that kind of $.

You guys have me wondering what my trans cooler capacity is. They installed it after a tranny rebuild but, never told me the stats. Could there be a way to get a "ball park" idea by looking at the measurement?

Funny you ask. I purchased some used from one of the memebers on this site several months ago and I still have yet to install them. I'll do some measurments before and after to give you an idea of the actual lift difference. I just want to level out my rake a little more.

I run with my hubs unlocked at all times unless I'm going into the woods. I inspected my boots last weekend and they seem to be holding on okay. They are stock and have never been replaced (165+k miles). I wonder if your boots are tearing there because of the "extreme" angle from the lift? My whole concern with installing the manual hubs in the first place was for this reason.

Where on the boot is tear? And was the tear in the same place on both of the boots?

I hear ya on the plastic wheel flare removal. I had mine off for one weekend before reinstalling them due to the stinking holes in my fenders.

They do look like they turned out really good. Of course, you must post pics of them installed.

The Titan wheels have the same bolt pattern (6 x 5.5). I'm not sure about the back spacing though.

I've got 12.3 with the engine off. 13.7 at idle with all electrics turned off. edit ... stupid auto correct

Tightened 7 loose lugs today. WTH?

You guys have all of those inspection woes yet you can have tinted license plate covers? We can't do any thing to our plates but, I'd take that over having to have my cars inspected each year .. I guess?

Only thing wrong with that pic is the speed. 200k would have looked better going 2mph over some rocks!

My flares are starting to peel (flake) a little. I too thought about pressure washing the paint off of the flares as they are "flat black" underneath the paint. The bumpers however ...

What? Where did you find N.Carolina mud at the OBX?

Mine does. Ironically, my rear wiper "sticks" when I put it on intermit. I have to switch it on and off to get it back into the "home" position.

I have the same issue with my ignition key being mismatched with the door keys. My ignition switch went FUBAR a couple of years ago. I rely on my fob for the keyless entry and ground the plastic (RFID chip and all) down so that I van keep it in my wallet in case the battery dies.

Should take you all of three minutes to remove.

I had to "re-glue" my driver side window a couple of years ago using epoxy. It kept coming out of the power window assembly. I don't remember it shuttering though?

Dear lord man, If you scrap her, offer up some parts to the gang around here. You can make a little more dough and help your Pathy brothers and sisters out.

Yep. Used the factory studs for my Warns as well. Nice pics!

Imagine that beast in black in lieu of the green.