WOT

Do the pictures in the first post not appear?? You can see the connector in the center of the second pic, one inch above the orange circle, you can see where the wires were ripped right out of the base of the connector

Wow that was indepth thanks!!! I did check both fuse boxes earlier, I just didnt see anything that mentions the washer motor. I will go check fuse #19 RIGHT NOW!!! EDIT: I checked the fuse, labelled FR Wiper, dont know how I missed that, I think I was glancing for the words pump/washer/motor I guess lol. Fuse is still good though. Anyone know what wire color in the harness that was ripped would be the wire to have power?? What I was "hoping" to do, is tap into a wire (preferably the correct one but it got it heart ripped out lol) close to the pumps to avoid ugly wiring runs so I can keep it clean looking. Ive never seen such "english" in the FSM before, it mostly makes no sence to me, and yes, the washer pumps combined sure are an upgrade!! Before I hated it how it barely trickled the window and didnt do much for the upper half, now the whole window gets soaked!! Mind you I definetely use alot more fluid but thats alright. Any idea the function of the power steering connector?? Is it just a fluid indicator?? If it is... Im deleting it They have a 96-98 style pathfinder in the junkyard close to me, would it use the same style connector or is the power steering setup and wiring different??

Ya the post he says it is the correct part number, but theres a few irregularities. I emailed the seller Nissanofchekapeake aswell, but that was 2 days ago and they still havent gotten back to me. They even list the cross reference part numbers in the auction. So Id ASSUME they would be the exact same sensor, size length and everything. Didnt want to waste $100

^^ the link to the other forum members problem is right under the picture I dont know why it disappears like that.

I came across a very good deal on ebay for the maxima maf that is supposed to be a direct replacement for our 01 R50. I was reading this post on another forums and am wonderring if anyone has the same issue. http://forums.nicoclub.com/huge-power-loss-is-maxima-maf-really-the-same-p0100-p1165-t518531.html http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330498217353&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT Did anyone get CEL's when putting in this sensor or notice its physical size difference?? Or was yours exactly the same sensor just under a different part number? Picture side by side would be great!!! I want to buy from that same seller since it is an amazing price and mine has never been change. But I dont want the problems that Qx4 is having.

So this is aparently why you dont take your car "off-road" without a skid plate on it. I was doing some mild off roading last night to help a friend setup for his bush party for new years, I was basically blazing my own trail through 2' little bushes til we got to the clearing we used last year. Suddenly I heard hell break loose under my hood. I turned the car off instantly. What ended up happening it a few sticks got sucked into my serp belts and they both exploded and let go, taking some wiring with it, Im assuming the whipping belts did this. They ripped out 2 harness The first harness is a 2 wire connector attached to the power steering hardlines at the front right under the oil filter. What scares me about this one, is there is ALOT of wire length exposed, alot more than I think was ever there. Im thinking it may have pulled wire from further down in the harness?? You can see how much red/black there is after my fingers, but the pic doesnt show the 8+" that is also exposed towards the harness Then today when I got all my belts put back on and found all the bit and strings of old belt. I went to use my windshield washers... no fluid came out. Asked my gf to turn the wipers on while I felt the motors, and they werent turning on, I looked at there connectors... and the wires were ripped out.. DAMNIT!! I wasnt so pissed about this one, because my rear motor had already failed and it just forced me to replace it. So what I did today, was make a supoer washer fluid setup. I got 2 motors off of a pathfinder in my local junkyard (96-99 kind) and I solderred both motors positives and negative together so they would both turn on at the same time ( I wont have a rear motor, both are dedicated to front) and then I ran a hose from EACH motor, to its own nozzle on the hood. I tested it out just by touching the wire to my battery, and damn does it ever spray good and everywhere, exactly what I wanted and have been missing!! But, like I said the wires were ripped out of the factory motor all the way up to behind the headlight, they ripped what looks like 1" before they enter the main harness behind the headlight. Theres 6 waire all severred here Red/White Blue/White Red (thicker gauge) Black X 2 Green/Red So I had my gf hold the wipers on in the back position, like they should be spraying the windshield, and I figured one of those wires would have 12+V to turn the motors on, but none of them did... I tried looking for a fuse in the fuse box that would control the wipers, but nothing was labelled as such. Does anyone know which fuse supply powers the motors?? All I want to do is tap into a power that has power when the lever is pulled back in the cabin. So yeah, that was my exciting day, and I hope someone is a little more technical than I am because I cant read an FSM wiring diagram to save my life, and not putting these motors on a toggle switch would be nice. For the harness on the power steering I was thinking of trying to find another pathfinder in another yard and maybe just cutting the connector off and solderring it on, but its a long shot Ill fnd another pathfinder, so if possible Id love to save this connector somehow Thanks for any help!!!!

Which 4kw amp?? You much have a damn good electrical aswell

Ya trust me Ive got every ticket known to man lol, my other cars are a big turbo Honda Crx and a soon to be turbo Honda Crv. Im also young and stupid and dont learn my lesson. The qx4 has 2" lowerring springs on the front, and OME .5" lift heavy duty rear springs, which settled about 1.5" lower than stock with my 280lb box/315lb battery bank/maybe 75 pounds amps and wiring. Using Kyb Gr2 struts in the front. I was stupid and didnt change bearing/mount etc and am paying for it with clunks in my front end now though I dont know if you noticed, but its a 2 seater

Thanks guys, appreciate the kind words. Basically I got the idea to do the dual alts beack a couple years ago when I got the car when I was first installing stereoes, I didnt want to have batteries in the back and I seen how big the factory air box was. I had 2 huge batteries under the hood on the oem alt for a while. Then I went a little bigger so I had 6 batteries in the back and this huge empty space where the factory intake box was... why not put an alt there lol. You can see how it was kind of difficult to fabricate the bracket to pick up off 2 a/c mounting bolts and one random engine bolt. Had to mount an idler pulley in the setup aswell to keep the belt away from any other parts. its tight!! Been on there for a year now though, no problems. Dont mind the baby blue pathfinder valve cover either lol, I put it on during winter so my carbon fiber cover doesnt see any salt and grime. Its even brighter in person !! EDIT- someone asked how it was wired. Its a "1wire" 300 amp alternator, so all it needs is a single 12v trigger to turn it on (I think I tapped into the fuel pump power wire) and you run your positives to the batteries from the output post Sorry my camera isnt much for high quality

I do custom car audio in my area, not because I wanted to, the work just kinda fell onto my lap when people seen some fiberglass boxes and stuff that Id do and well its good money and I get to pick the side jobs I want I built my car like this for me first and foremost. But its also kinda like advertising, people can see what I do, gets my name out there etc. Those 6.5" Peerless speakers in particular went on sale at parts express for $10 a piece (regular $45) and I bought 2 pallets of them (240 speakers) and I show people how good they sound when properly EQ'd and they sell like hot cakes, and I sell them for $20 a piece, still a good deal for people but I made a good chunk of money just flipping them Im just having fun to be honest, and it beats working in factories, and its giving me time to go back to school and learn what I really want to do, metal fabrication/welding

These are the only 2 pics of the current setup I have on my gf's camera (im at her parents house celebrating christmas by browsing this forum lol) tekazgtr- it is a little "excessive" but its not all bass, I also have 16 6.5" speakers, 4 4" midrange speakers, 2 4" supertweeters. I have a great EQ and headunit so everything sounds perfect (to me anyways, no distortion at full volume) I have 6 amps in all right now. Yes there pink That mess of subwoofer wiring was hidden shortly after I think that was just a test to make sure it all worked before I buttoned it up You can keep the volume low and it sounds amazing for daily cruising with the gf, but when Im by myself or doing some demos for people that havent a large stereo before.. it definetely does some damage lol. You might think I listen to rap/bass type music. But I actually listen to new rock mostly lol You can spy my suede headliner and mega ripped headrest in the pics to. I really gotta fix that!!

Thanks for diggin up those pics and bringing a tear to my eye fueler lol I dont have that setup anymore, I have 2 custom 21" subs now. I change setups every couple months out of boredom and someone usually offers me a good deal to buy my old equipment so I cant resist lol I can post up pics of the dual alt setup I fabricated and whatever, I just dont usually take pics of my work, Im pretty scared of theft. Im thinkning of going to a triple alt setup if SoundDigital follows through with the sponsorship deal they offerred me Merry christmas boys

appreciate the pic. For the 3 years Ive had this car I havent had a hood clip and just leave it sitting there, never knew what originally existed. I guess I'll buy that clip to. Thanks!

I probably wont have it there for long either anyways, was more just of a test and Im glad it fixed it. Id rather have the cable inside the car but I', going to have to make more firewall clearance, and I dont like taking my interior apart in -10 weather so it'll have to wait til spring I did put a piece of tech flex on each end coming out of the missing link, I just took this picture when rough running it to measure the length to cut and solder the lugs on

Large cable to support the 300amp dual alternator setup, Ive got 4 batteries aswell. An Optima underhood main battery and 3 batteries meant for cell phone towers in the back (NSB125's for anyone familiar) Ive got a few postive 2/0 power wires run inside the car. But I was having problems with to much voltage drop, simply tying my second alternators frame ground, to my rear batteries frame ground, with this cable I posted, fixed it completely and Im back in action

Me? Offroad? Not by choice lol

Little out of the ordinary but I figured why not post it anyways. I have a little stereo setup in my R50, and was having some problems with HUGE voltage drop when it was full blast, into the 11 volt range. I came to the conclusion my grounds were junk and I wanted everything looped. I made that "missing link" bar a few weeks ago by myself, you can see how dam easy my way was to make it, just cut 1.5" square tubing on a steep angle and drill 2 holes. Anyways, I needed to get this HUGE 3/0 cable (3/4" diameter) from the front to the back, and couldnt think of where to cross it under the vehicle without going all the way around the back which would make it to long as expensive. Right thru the missing link we go.... Multi use, and free, cant beat that!

Ill check that out thanks appreciate it

Mine has been gone since I bought my vehicle, do you happen to have a pic of what its SUPPOSED to look like, and where it clips in

I searched for over an hour now on just a view of someone taking there front assembly (shock/spring) apart and I cant find anything, Does anyone remember a link where someone on this board did a suspension overhaul or anything?? I just would like to see how it looks apart, and what actual piece I need to buy or could possibly need replaced. Im in the dark and cant find a good identifying picture

I highly doubt that block would leak Little Jb QUIK (not regular weld there fast seting stuff) mite cure it/block it etc until you have time to get it fixed

Well the thing comes with male AN fittings, are the people that use barbs and clamps just removing those and threading in a barb?? I figure it would be an odd size tapped hole in the adapter or something I would like to use crimped AN lines, but heck if clamps and barbs works perfect I may just go that route. Worm clamps just bug me sometimes

Mine leaked aswell around 110k miles. I didnt even replace it actually, I just loosened and retorqued it back on and it was fine

My car is actually from florida and I dont have DRL's

Thanks guys!! I notice alot of people that do these dont even get -10an fitting lines installed, it looks like most people just clamp hose onto barbs with worm clamps Is this purely a cost effective method or is there another benefit?