statikuz

A nifty little tool comes with the kit... it has a hole you put the wire in so you can strip it [with an x-acto knife or leatherman or whatever] to the proper length [about 1/2" or so], then you slide the terminal onto the stripped end of the wire, which then goes between the two pieces of the crimper. The whole thing goes in a vise [the crimper has little tabs to keep itself in line], you tighten the vise down and it crimps the wire properly, keeps it round and stuff so the boot slides on right and the crimp is strong. One tip: get some dielectric grease to help slide the boots on; it helps A LOT, trust me. =) The attachment is a picture of the crimper tool. Sorry its so big, I was too lazy to resize it. =P

Yeah, I was considering a body lift but I dunno how long it would take me, some people say its easy and some people say its tougher than a suspension lift. =) Any other ideas?

Yep, the PN was 3108. =) My distributor cap was $19 from Checker... they were gonna charge like $35 or something but they pricematched their own price from www.partsamerica.com.

Sounds like too much work to me... lots of people just mount a single floodlight either below their bumper or on the spare tire carrier [if you have one] and wire it up to the backup light wire.

Anyone know who sells a '93-era Pathfinder body lift kit BESIDES AC? I know they include some special bolts or something that don't come in the 1990-or-so Performance Accessories kit, but are they the only people that sell it?

I'm not entirely sure what's next on the todo list, I'm not feelin' a really big project, like a suspension lift or something, more something in the $100-200 range cuz I don't want to spend a TON of cash that I don't have. =) Any ideas?

I've heard that these are pretty good: http://www.purenissan.com/control_arms.htm ...but at $350 for the pair that's kinda steep. =)

Yeah, that's true, but there's always a line between the use of profanity in positive and negative ways: "Why did you do THAT? Now your Pathy looks like s _ _ _!" "That bumper is sweet... your Pathy is definitely the s _ _ _!" =)

Yeah, if you've got the owners manual [which you prolly don't since you asked =)], it'll tell you all the fluid capacities somewhere in there...

That's why I tend to do things in steps, rather than all at once... replace the rotor and cap and make sure it all still works... replace the plugs... make sure it all still works, etc., etc. With as many things as you replaced, it could be any one of 'em. =) I assume you've already checked everything and made sure your connections were secure and so on and so forth; beyond that I can't really give you any advice as far as troubleshooting the problem goes.

Found these while scrounging earlier today, if anyone needs them: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=33692

Get a spare key and keep it in your wallet... I've done exactly the same thing... I was leaving work one night and had forgotten whether or not I locked the doors, so I got out to check and closed the door behind me... my Pathy has an issue with cold temperatures... if you slam the door the locks will lock. =)

Toss what mess? I hope you're referring to the "beauty cover black plastic". =)

Just the knob? Mine twists off... did you crank on it hard enough? =)

Yeah, the year of your Pathy isn't going to affect how much mud collects on it. =) You should probably leave em off regardless, but they do look pretty...

Yeah, I got my new distributor cap at Checker's... I found the cap on their site, PartsAmerica.com, for $20, but they wanted to charge me like $36 for it instore... no big deal, I told them it was cheaper on their site and they just asked me what the price was, didn't want a printout or anything, so that was nice.

Probably so, these are the MSD 8MM Heli-Core ones, and they're the set for a V8, so you can screw up twice. =) They were $50 from Summit Racing.

Who ran the test? With all due respect, nowadays you can find an article written by SOMEONE that'll back up ANY point you have. =)

My alternator had issues a few months back, so I took it to the good ol' auto shop at my high school... the guys in the Auto II class managed to get mine in and out in around an hour... even though they all claimed it was a major PITA, it didn't take them too long... don't know if that tells you anything. =) Good luck!

Thanks! BigMike: I WOULD, but what exactly on there can BE colorful? =)

Yeah, I didn't think so, it gets hot to the touch, but if that IS hot enough to melt a plug wire, then they're not as "heat-resistant" as they claim to be.

Alrighty, here's a completed wire.

Alrighty, we'll see if I can explain this. I took one wire, cut off the MSD straight terminal, crimped a socket terminal on there, slid the whole thing in the hard plastic stock boot, until I realized that those terminals weren't made to go on spark plugs. Back to the drawing board. I think I can keep the straight MSD boot [bottom], cut off that much of the plastic stock one [middle], and just slide the stock boot over the bare end of the wire so it gives me something to push the boot down with. The part in the top of the picture mounts over the right of the plastic boot-pipe thing, so the wire makes a nice 90° angle as it comes out of the top of the intake manifold... that way the wire doesn't lay against the metal of the intake and melt... even though it shouldn't, I still feel a little safer. More pictures later.

$2.39 for the cheapest stuff here in NV at a Chevron, $2.59 for the Supreme. =(

Yeah, it looks like that should work, I hacked apart one of the long plastic boot things and I should be able to just put it on the new wire without any hassle... take off the MSD straight boot and put this one on and run the new wire through it. I have some dielectric grease that works pretty slick [pun intended] for sliding the boots on and off.