Towncivilian

I haven't found any TSBs relating to oxygen sensors for your 1996 Pathfinder. What brand oxygen sensor did you use?

Looks like the diagnostic procedure for P1110 & P1135 matches P1140 & P1145 (intake valve timing control position sensor). I had both P1140 & P1145 and replaced both of the sensors and the codes went away. See EC-480 for the diagnostic procedure for those sensors. What oil & filter do you run currently?

After further reading of the white paper, Amsoil seems to blow the other lubes out of the water (see page 19). I'm definitely putting 75W-90 or 75W-110 Severe Gear into my differential when it's conveniently affordable for me. Valvoline 80W-90 didn't do too great, it seems I didn't do enough research before picking it. But still, I'm sure fresh "mediocre" oil is just fine for a brief 15-20k run, and certainly better than 123k old factory fill that's no doubt full of wear metals! Mobil 1 did quite well for a very affordable and available fluid, especially if you've got Advance Auto Parts nearby for even better pricing. I wouldn't hesitate to run that if Amsoil were unavailable or too cost prohibitive. Although it technically didn't meet either GL-5 or SAE J306 requirements due to shear, it barely failed (13.31 cSt when it should've been at least 13.5 csT, big whoop) so I wouldn't discount it. Lucas was just downright nasty. Thanks for providing the link to the white paper, it was some interesting reading.

There are a few used oil analyses of various brands of gear oil on Bob Is The Oil Guy which you may want to look at to help gain some insight on the various lubes. Differentials are pretty much bulletproof - you see vehicles with 200k or 300k with the factory fill still rolling around. I ran the factory fill in my rear diff for 123k miles and I've got no problems. I'd say that the frequency of the oil change interval matters more than the gear lube you pick, especially if there is potential water entry. 30k miles on nearly any name-brand gear oil should be quite acceptable. You can't go wrong with Amsoil, I think. My local NAPA sells Amsoil 75W-90 Severe Gear, but for my next diff change I'd probably order Severe Gear 75W-110 from an Amsoil dealer instead. The SAW 90W range was revised a couple years ago; the thinner half of the viscosity range now comprises xxW-90 and the thicker half is xxW-110. Currently I have Valvoline High Performance 80W-90 in my rear diff and from some of the tests conducted in your linked white paper, it ain't too great. I'd planned on changing it at 150k miles (currently at 131k), but I'll do some additional reading of that white paper when I'm not so tired and reconsider. I've got Mobil 1 75W-90 in my father's 2007 FJ Cruiser (also 2WD) which I got 3qts of for $24 after tax from Advance Auto Parts when ordered online with discount code and picked up in store. It's a great deal for an excellent gear lube, in my opinion. I'd run that in a heartbeat too in any differential, especially for the stellar price. That Lucas snot looks real bad. It really shows that they are all marketing. Their "Oil Stabilizer" product is basically brighstock straight 80wt gear lube with no additives. It's garbage that just thickens up the oil and dilutes the additive pack - you'd think with that being perhaps their flagship product they'd at least get gear lube right! Hah.

Yeah, how many kilometers do you have on your QX4? 169k km is the spark plug replacement interval. Transmission fluid at the proper level when hot, clear and red, smells fine too?

Just readjust them both anyway, I guess. Maybe take the drums off, measure their diameter and make sure it's less than the maximum stated on the drum. Check for glazing or rough surfaces, sand if required. Clean everything thoroughly with brake cleaner (stick a drain pan underneath so you don't stain anything), don't use a vacuum or compressed air since there might be asbestos or other toxic airborne materials if you do so. Ensure all the spring hardware is intact. The rear drum hardware lasts practically forever, you shouldn't need any new hardware yet.

The drums should literally just slide off assuming they're not held in by rust. If you have difficulty, you can stick a couple M8 bolts in the drum and tighten until it loosens off. I don't think you need to remove the drums just yet though, start with adjusting the shoes. There should be a rubber rectangular plug on the backing plate, remove it to access the adjuster. Loosen the adjuster, then tightening until there's a slight drag when you turn the wheel by hand. A flathead screwdriver should work fine to move the adjuster star wheel. Be sure you get the orientation of the threads correct, they're different per side (see BR-29). Adjust both sides, then adjust the parking brake following the procedure on BR-31.

R50's fuel filters are located on a rail above the rear differential, not under the hood.

You can just do a gravity bleed of the clutch fluid reservoir I'd think. Get a bottle of DOT4 fluid (which has higher minimum wet and dry boiling points) and crack the bleeder screw, replenishing fluid as required until all fluid is fresh.

I have a 2WD and my driveshaft moves just about that much last time I checked. I haven't noticed anything bad yet, but sometimes when in drive and stopped at a red light there's some noticeable vibration which goes away when I put it in N.

Once I empty my current fill of washer fluid (just topped it off today, d'oh) I'll try flushing the reservoir with a garden hose and try running some CLR through the pumps.

Yeah, maybe you're right that the rear pump is clogged with crap. Sometimes when I fill the washer fluid, some nasty smell emerges. The tube thing attached to the cap is also full of crud.

The pump works (I hear it whirring when trying to spray), the fluid reservoir is full, and the rear nozzle doesn't seem clogged. The hose end on the pump is still fine and not leaking. I haven't found a leak anywhere in the interior where the fluid line runs, though I didn't look extensively. Is there a clog somewhere, maybe the check valve in the rear door?

See EC-108 for a diagnostic procedure.

What's the fluid color and smell? If you've never changed it before, get a turkey baster from the dollar store and some synthetic ATF and do a few siphon & fills of the reservoir with a couple days driving in between.

Can you post a picture of the shifter?

Is all the drum brake hardware (springs, seats, washers, etc) intact and in working order? It is possible to adjust the brake pedal freeplay and height, but this is probably not the correct course of action. I'm not very familiar with drum brakes so I'm afraid I have no more useful advice.

Indeed, you're correct. On 1997-2000 Pathfinders, the rear brakes self-adjust every time the parking brake is applied. Fronts self-adjust every time the brake pedal is pressed. On 2001-2004 Pathfinders, both the front and rear brakes self-adjust every time the brake pedal is pressed. Though since the OP has replaced at least his brake shoes previously, I'd assume the shoes are adjusted properly. EDIT: Oh, two new replies. Your parking brake should have between 6 to 8 notches with a reasonable amount of force applied. Adjust it following the procedure on page BR-30.

Did you follow the correct bleeding order? 1. LSV air bleeder (4WD models only) 2. Left rear brake 3. Right rear brake 4. Left front brake 5. Right front brake All brake fluid is synthetic, by the way. If it's on the bottle it's just a stupid marketing gimmick. Perhaps your wheel cylinders are shot?

I replaced my rear wiper blade today since the rubber portion was starting to separate from the blade. Also, my rear washer fluid nozzle doesn't spit anything out. The pump works and the fluid isn't empty, so I'm thinking it's an issue in the tubing somewhere or a completely clogged nozzle.

I am mistaken. I have HG43 on my 2WD A/T. I don't know why I remembered having HG46...

I believe all R50s automatic gasoline Pathfinders have an RE4R01A transmission of some sort, which all have overdrive. If the OP can post the transmission model located on the certification plate on the right side of the firewall, that would help.

That is very strange indeed. Can you post a photo of your shifter?

FAST says it's a 2003 SE part time 4WD A/T. Whoever listed it is a moron and is trying to fool people into thinking it's the "luxury" model and thus warrants more cash, or maybe it was just a typo. They removed the front license plate holder, but not the brackets. I always think that's a little amusing.

If you engage the parking brake and set the ignition to "ON" the 4LO light should light up for one second according to the owner's manual. Check if it does.