Towncivilian

Why do you think you need new rear brake hardware, and new bearings? The rear drums on my 135k mile Pathfinder have like 60% life remaining. Just remove the drums, then clean everything using brake cleaner, lubricate any contact points as required, and adjust the shoes, then adjust the parking brake. If your bearings are good, just regrease both and install new inner bearing grease seals and you'll be good in that regard. Use a high quality synthetic grease like Valvoline SynPower which is commonly found at parts stores, or Amsoil synthetic multi-purpose grease (which I was lucky to find at my local NAPA). There is a DIY guide on front pads, rotors & outer wheel bearings on NICOclub. Basically the only thing that might be difficult about the process is tightening the wheel bearing lock washer since you may require a special tool, or you can just use a screwdriver + hammer or a pair of lock ring pliers maybe. Also see the BR section of your year's factory service manual for torque specs. If you haven't flushed your brake fluid in the past two years, do so after the brake job and then repeat every 2 years.

In case there is some garbage blocking the injector nozzle causing it to spray weird, you can try throwing in a 20oz. bottle of Chevron Techron in the tank, I think NAPA has it for $5.99 on sale (or maybe that ended already). WalMart also has a $2 off instant manufacturer coupon on the bottles, but I don't think they have the 20oz. bottles. Maybe pocket one of those coupons and go get a bottle from AAP instead, heh. Try not to burn through the whole tank quickly as you would on a long highway trip, the cleaner works better when allowed to sit and soak.

I would regrease the inner and outer bearings, it's not difficult. If you're doing outers already it's another 10 minutes to regrease the inners as well. You will need new inner bearing grease seals, you can get them pretty cheap on RockAuto. Use a high quality synthetic wheel bearing grease; Valvoline SynPower tubs are commonly found in most auto parts stores. Valve cover gaskets: have you tried simply tightening the screws for these? If not, try it and see if you leak/weeps stop. Fluids: if you haven't had any of the following done for 2 years I'd do them: differential(s), transfer case (if applicable), transmission fluid (just one drain & fill will be good to refresh some of the fluid assuming auto), coolant (drain & fill of radiator and overflow reservoir), power steering fluid (use a turkey baster to siphon & fill with synthetic ATF; repeat every other oil change), brake fluid (always flush every 2 years), grease driveshaft(s) every oil change Filters: if not done in past two years: cabin air filter (if equipped), fuel filter; air filter only if it looks excessively clogged Spark plugs: 105k mile intervals, along with timing belt; if not done, get both of these done! P/S pump: is it just plain dead? I don't know how difficult an R&R is, sorry. The ST section of the factory service manual might shed some light here. What other issues do you have?

I was also wondering why you're looking to replace your Pathfinder. Is there something major wrong with it, or do you just feel uncomfortable with a decade old vehicle? EDIT: Oh, ancient thread. Heh.

Why do you need to change your MAF sensor? It's secured by 2 T20 Torx bits; they might be security Torx bits too. Be sure to disconnect the negative battery terminal before disconnecting the wiring harness.

It's held in by two Phillips screws and has a wide connector plugged into it. It's accessible without removing the glove box.

Trans Tune is Seafoam in a different can. I would not put any solvents in any lubricant on a vehicle. Do some drain & fills with a few days of driving in between to gently clean things after doing a pan drop & filter change.

You can't do this without swapping body panels. The rear quarter panel on tire carrier models is reinforced to handle the extra weight.

Try resetting the limiter switch, there should be a little black button somewhere that you press. Remove the door panel to find it. I don't remember its exact location, sorry.

See AT-99 of the FSM for a shift lock system diagnostic procedure.

A complete transmission fluid exchange might help with the slow reverse engage issue. If the stock cooler is still in use, I'd flush it before continuing to drive it; either way, install a Magnefine in-line filter on the cooler return line. The shift lever linkage might have come out of adjustment, or the key interlock system is malfunctioning. The former is easy to adjust; I'm not sure what is involved with the latter. I assume you checked for rust in all the problem areas? Does it have service records? Does it look clean when you shine a flashlight under the oil filler cap?

P0141 is the passenger's side rear oxygen sensor. Replace it with http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_premium-oxygen-sensor-bosch_18730020-p]this Bosch O2 sensor from Advance Auto Parts[/url]. You can obtain it for only $59.99 before tax if you order online using discount code RAF7JA1102 and pick-up in store.

You won't be able to fit a 70266 due to clearance issues, on a WD21. Paging Tungsten! If you flush the stock cooler thoroughly and install an in-line filter, you can safely continue to use the stock cooler and plumb the auxiliary cooler in-line with it. See NTB00-056b - 1988 AND LATER NISSAN VEHICLES AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION OIL COOLER CLEANING.

Manual transmission fluid: Use any GL-4 rated fluid only. GL-5 gear oils contain additives that can be harmful to yellow metals (brass synchros). When a fluid states that it is GL-4 and GL-5 suitable, it is likely referring to use in a differential, not in a manual transmission. While GL-4 fluids can sometimes be difficult to obtain, I would not chance significant transmission damage, especially when the lubricant in question is changed out at relatively lengthy intervals, in order to save a few dollars by using an easily-obtained GL-5 rated lubricant. Redline MT-90 and Amsoil MTG are excellent options suitable for use in our manual transmissions. Differential fluid: Any GL-5 fluid. Mobil 1 75W-90 is a great fluid and can be obtained relatively cheaply from Advance Auto Parts if there is one where you live. You'll need 5 quarts to cover both differentials. Order online using discount code RETMENOT123 then pick up in store and you can get it for $34.95 before tax. I would suggest getting a fluid pump to fill the differentials easier. Brake fluid: Any DOT3, DOT4, or DOT5.1 fluid. Do not use DOT5 which is silicone based and is not miscible with the other DOT fluids. Ethylene glycol based brake fluid (DOT3, DOT4, and DOT5.1) is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere. This will reduce the boiling point of the fluid, which may result in brake fade (in which case the brake pedal falls to the floor and you have reduced or no braking) if the fluid boils. The moisure also can result in corrosion and reduced life of brake components. Flush it every 2 years. Power steering fluid: Any synthetic automatic transmission fluid meeting Dexron III or VI specifications. You can change it using a turkey baster (not your wife's!) or a suction gun. Open the reservoir, remove the small filter, then suck most of the fluid out and replace with synthetic ATF. Synthetic ATF will reduce temperatures and provide better cold-weather performance; no longer will your power steering pump groan and moan during those cold starts in the winter months. Clean the small filter using brake cleaner if it has any contaminants on it. Recycle the used power steering fluid at any place that recycles engine oil. Engine coolant: Nissan green OEM fluid, part number 999MP-AF000P (1 gallon undiluted). Grease for driveshafts: any lithium soap base complex grease containing molybdenum disulphide. Valvoline Synpower is easily obtained at most local parts stores and is a synthetic lithium complex grease containing moly. Air filter: NAPA Gold/Wix, Purolator, OEM filters are good choices. Cabin air filter: NAPA Gold or Wix. Fuel filter: NAPA Gold 3023 or Wix 33023.

Use any name brand conventional oil you can find on sale and change it out every 4-5k. Any NAPA Gold/Wix, Purolator/Bosch, Motorcraft FL-822 are good filter choices. I'm on my phone right now but I'll give more options for all other fluids and filters later.

Make sure you get your Pathfinder inspected for the strut housing corrosion recall if it hasn't been yet. Spark plugs are due at 168k kms, might just get those done if they haven't been done yet. Fluids: transmission, differentials, transfer case, brake, power steering, coolant all less than 2 years old? If not, replace as required. Filters: engine, cabin, fuel all good/recent? Driveshafts greased every oil change? Use any NLGI No. 2 lithium soap base grease. Adjust throttle and cruise cables - see FE-3 and EL-267 of the factory service manual, respectively. You can do these yourself in 5 minutes easy. Rear drums cleaned, lubed, and adjusted within the past 2 years or so? If not, get that done. If you haven't yet, download a copy of the factory service manual, it's an invaluable resource. To save a copy of the FSM, right click -> Save As on every PDF, save them into a single folder, then use fwd.pdf to navigate. Owner's manual here too.

I too used a breaker bar, but no PB Blaster since both my drain & fill plugs were new and had only 13k miles on them and Teflon tape on the threads. The plugs loosened fairly easily. PB Blaster or some other penetrating lubricant is always a good idea though.

Great, hope it solves your leak. The oil dipstick doesn't have a replaceable O-ring, you'll need to replace the entire thing. You'll want it tight to prevent air being sucked in and potentially adding more contamination to the oil. A new OEM one shouldn't cost more than about $15. Part number is 11140-4W001.

Tighten the valve cover screws with a Phillips screwdriver, they probably just backed out a bit after 10 years. It's fairly common.

There is a fast idle cam adjustment procedure starting on page EC-23 of the FSM, perhaps try following it.

The drain plugs are 13mm, but 1/2" (12.7mm) is close enough most of the time. Harbor Freight has a drain plug socket set which includes a 13mm drain plug which I've used with success.

Shouldn't matter either way, just allow the cleaner to soak, don't burn through the whole tank very quickly like you would on a long highway trip. It cleans more effectively if it sits and soaks.

Are there any idle relearn procedures in the EC section of your year's FSM? I'm on my phone otherwise I'd check myself.

I think the old races weared together with the bearings and the squeaking noise might just be metal on metal contact as a result of unworn bearings. That's just a guess though, I may be completely wrong. What grease did you use?

It wouldn't hurt to run a couple more tankfuls, especially since Techron is often buy one get one (or buy one get another for $1) at some auto parts store any given month. WalMart has a $2 manufacturer coupon on their Techron bottles so you can go peel one off and use that at the parts store to save a couple bucks.