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Inyourface1650

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Everything posted by Inyourface1650

  1. This worked Beautifully btw. 1991 single cab, 4x4, 5-speed, 4cyl. Really nice truck actually, shame it got in the yard, was an in Impound Stock pathfinder on top, hardbody below
  2. You know, I thought that road looked familiar
  3. Hey guys, Decided that I don't want to go full E-fan. I like the simplicity and reliability of the mechanical fan. However, the AC sucks!!!! when your stopped or running in 4-low. Most OEM truck applications are mechanical fan - E-fan assist and I put ALOT of faith in the reliability of OEM design and applications. They do things the way they do for a reason... New Nissan Frontiers/Xterras/Pathfinders/Titans/QX56/Armada are all this way. basically all the 4runners and other things in the JY are too.... You can hear a Titan or Armada idling clear across the parking lot for the that damn little aux fan. Its too big btw, over 5" deep. I almost bought one. So I'm experimenting with 10" pusher E-Fans. 2.5" inch deep. Not a ton of room behind the 94-95 grill, much more behind the earlier ones... Looks like basically everyone lies online, but even though all the fans say over 1000CFM for a 10"...if you look at amp draw, they all pull 7amps and all push about 650CFM. $20 on Amazon. Not bad... http://www.amazon.com/PROCOMP-INCH-ELECTRIC-COOLER-RADIATOR/dp/B004LOIKVM/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1368070478&sr=1-5&keywords=Electric+Fan+10%22 Basically, I can hook this up with a relay off the AC unit for almost nothing and with little downtime. I already blew up 2 autozone cheapy fan controllers when trying a taurus fan - so I have no interest in one of those. I also have a Tranny cooler, but I will simply put the fan on the other side... here are some mock ups in the Junk yard using 2 pathfinders, and a Honda Passport(Isuzu Rodeo) fan. Clearance: The doner fan. Late model Honda Passport. The screws were too rusted so I just broke the shroud. Im terrible I know. Land Rover fans - a little thinner:
  4. Yeah mine is completely shot. I just rebuilt the entire front end thinking I have had blown out all my TRE's, and nope, they were solid. Calmini TRE's aren't cheap either....Its the box. I have the Calmini Pitman arm on my truck, but I'm really not that worried about it coming off, its just the rusted on factory stuff that's killer. I have a nice 24oz hammer so if it comes to that, it comes to that. I've been meaning to pick up a Burnzo anyway....just got a good excuse! I have no place but a parking spot to work on this unfortunately, so its gotta be as clean(fast) as possible...
  5. Thinking about further. Use the pipe/wrench combo to get the pitman arm bolt loose, then remove tire rodes, then remove pitman arm entirely and THEN remove from frame. only question is that pesky u-joint....
  6. Its time to replace the power steering box. Doesn't look terribly hard but wanted to review several items. I took a 3/4 inch socket set to a pitman arm bolt on a JY pathy and there was no way I was moving it. Just looked in the FSM - 175-195 lb/ft torque on that bad boy. I'll take a 2-3 foot pipe to the JY, but is it ok to put that much force on the arm the steering box? any possibility of bending something in the box? I'm trying to think of a way to neutralize the steering on a JY truck and cant really think of one since they don't have tires and aren't on the ground. Any ideas? I am in an apartment now and have no bench or work area, but I have tools and a private parking spot.. EDIT: Just thinking about it, the steering stops will take the load, not the box internals, wont they? Bolts to the frame are only showing 96 lb/ft in the FSM so that's a non issue (did I mention I have 3/4 inch socket set?) Final question - it looks like I will want to unbolt the steering column U-joint from the steering box "stub shaft". Does the steering shaft have any play in it, or is the only way to separate the u-joint and the box to move box? Installation on my truck will be easier I think as it will be on its own tires, and the the pitman arm has been replaced before with a Calimini HD by the PO - and he doesn't tighten things nearly as tight as factory
  7. you guys think these things break loose easy? Lol. Not even CLOSE to my 2005 6-speed Frontier. That thing you would stick in 2nd and wood it and arroooouuuuuuuunnnnnd it would go. No LSD, no locker, no weight, and 265HP.
  8. Remember, its an imperial gallon, and a TD27. He's probably not boasting too much.....
  9. True, but not worth the $150 for the HF vaccum pump
  10. Well i ended up popping both hoses off and replacing both seals without vaccumn. I figure the hoses were off for 30 seconds so there wasnt a ton of time for moisture to get in there. 2 bottles of r134a and I had 40F vent temps. Lets see if it lasts...if not I found the hoses at Autozone arent bad at all really, only $40each.
  11. Hey guys, theres a 4cyl HB in the PnP with a transfer shifter, I didnt get a chance to pull it as I was in a rush.... I'm still on the look out for an extended one for my WD21 w/2" body lift. I know the 6Cyl HB's are basically body lifted...are the 4cyl's the same way?
  12. was there ever a oil pan skid? I had front, transfer, and gas, but never have see an oil pan skid
  13. Scratch that, no-one in CO will rent you a vaccumn pump. damn hippies. They'll sell you the manifold, the hoses, the gasket kit, and the freon, but no vaccum pumps. We used to rent them in AZ all the time. I got a little Air compressor one from HF for $20, but I'm not super excited that my OBA will be able to power it.
  14. Hey trogdor, you can add fluid in the case of a leak ok with just a gauge on the low side, but if you open the system all the way you really need a proper manifold set and a vacuum pump. Our parts stores will lend you the pump but not the manifold... Adamzan thanks for the tip! I'll check out auto zone.
  15. Hey guys, started to warm up in CO, so I fired up the Old AC and was instantly underwhelmed. per my cool little refill bottle guage, only about 10PSI in the thing on the low. I refilled it, and a couple days later same thing. Bought a Dye kit and ran it, and as far as I can tell, the die is all leaking on the High side where it bolts to the compressor. I investigated all the lines, those all look good, but its definately where the hose BOLTS to the compressor. I went to the JY and looked, and there a little O ring there, perhaps that has gone bad? The hoses arent cheap from Autozone or the Dealer, so I'm tempted to just replace the oring (snagged a couple at the PnP). What do you think? Does that sound legit? Other side of the equation is I dont replace the hose, do replace the O-Ring, and then pay Pepboys $120 to refill the system and it all leaks out again. Thoughts? Mike
  16. lol! 210,090...now thats high mileage - though I just use normal Mobil 1...
  17. Anyone have any idea where to get these at this point? I actually ordered one from Courtesy Parts about a year ago, but it then suffered a inglorious death while in my pocket in the washer. I complained to my GF (who was doing my laundry) that she didn't go through my pockets, and she hasn't done any of my laundry since. Double whammy. Ouch. to ADD INSULT TO INJURY....the part is NLA at courtesyparts.com http://www.courtesyparts.com/nissan-keyless-remote-19865-1995-pathfinder-p-228576.html?cPath=5572&
  18. I still havent gotten mine from AZ yet. I told my sister to take her time...but I thought she would send it in a MONTH lol...
  19. R50 console is the way to go, I think it cost me $50 to do it. the biggest pain is moving the parking brake
  20. It's pretty stout too.... Mine is all sorts of scraped up and no dents or deflection...
  21. I get 13mpg around town ~15mpg highway - but it doesn't spend much time in OD on the highway
  22. I like it for the most part, but it holds 1st gear too damn long under light throttle. Under heavy throttle it shifts right where I like it too,
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