Inyourface1650

7500 miles. Mobil 1

Yep. I have new rubber everywhere, cld tiles in the doors, cotton padding behind the door panels and it's tolerable. I need a new seal on the sunroof glass itself though I have no idea how to scrape it off/glue on...

The Dual use gauges are pretty kickass...

I sent my new Addy to Dowser awhile back but no biggie, I still "live" at the old location anyway.

Got mine... Well at my old house in az anyway. It's getting sent to me tomorrow.

Looks like you can get an OEM one for about $250...might be your only option. http://www.courtesyparts.com/12310-flywheel-assy-truck-d21-19865-1989-vg30mtf5-1990-1994-vg30emtf5-p-122725.html?cPath=3178&

Later Model "truck" Explorers use IRS and use the Ford 8.8" Probably your best bet is a custom frame with a IRS Ford 9" or something (they make them for drag cars) and custom A-arms with coils. I've always thought the R51 with an armada swap front and rear ( so it would be long travel front and rear) would be a wicked (cheapish) high speed desert truck...

Cool! I laughed at the one installed on the 26' Uhaul I drove last year. I got 4MPG as a result. Back to pathy's.....so what your saying is mine runs .75hg all the time...

Interesting update -if I am double foot the thing, left foot on the brake, right foot on the gas, ~1500RPM - I can go into drive/reverse no issue - so maybe its not a Torque converter thing at all and possibly the tranny trying to start in 2nd or third. Definitely does work, makes getting out of my parallel parking spot in the morning a bit noisy but hey....

How are these holding up?

But again, its FWD and is using AWD designed for snow. You want to use it for a RWD application - so double the torque there (AWD vehicles typically can only send 50% to the none primary drive axle, some can do 100% but only for short periods of time) - and then you have low range, so now your talking possibly 4x the torque loads that the thing is designed for. its going to snap like toothpicks. I'm not just talking drive train here, your talking bushings diameter/loading, bolt load- wheel bearing loads, tensile strength of the steel used in the construction, A-arm wall thickness etc. I really like the IRS idea, but I think the Escape is a poor option. Get the IRS out of a R51 Pathfinder, or any number of Truck based RWD SUV's in the last 10 years.... These will be designed to handle the torque loads that you will put on it with a 4x4 with low range.

Thanks for the Tip Stalker....He responded within 30 minutes on that SN!

They probably weren't 4000lbs but 6000lbs sounds about right. You want 1.5x vehicle weight for your winch. Now typically that's loaded though.... My pathfinder is 4000lbs empty figure 5000lbs loaded.... Only a 7500lb winch. I have a army recovery manual.... And that's why they recommend. Uphill in mud 2x vehicle weight in pulling power is recommended

I must admit the bfg a/t is kicking butt out in the snow as well

I run 85 up here no problems but yeah the whole elevation thing :-)

Have you looked at an escape rear drive line? It's designed to take a maximum of 50% of the total torque from a front wheel drive 4 cylinder engine with no low range. You'll shred the thing the first time you use the truck for anything other than mall crawling. You have more power, more weight, and your rwd!! The cvs are waaay smaller then our front ones...and the diff is puny.

Torsion bars are in the front...you have suspension links (trailing arms?) in the back. BTW I just got yet another one from the jy for $12.99.

I PMed him a couple of times, haven't heard back, would really like one!

What no-one has mentioned here is in addition to the stiffness is the weight. I went from D rated tires with steel wheels to C rated with Alloys and holy cow could you feel the difference - in acceleration, braking and handling. Saved ~20lbs a corner. Half was the tires. Remember unsprung weight is the enemy - even on an offroad truck,.

I'm planning on a Lokka myself - its not a lunch box locker like your thinking. It provides continuous drive (always locked) operation on the inside wheel and allows a wheel to overrun the powered wheel (so the outside wheel can go around the corner)...

Man, I was hoping it would have the same molding for the clips as the OEM one. Drat!

Started right up in -17 this morning and shifted no problem. I Dont get it. I appreciate the advice on the additive, but these vehicles were designed to start and drive at -40F with OEM fluid and no driveability issues.... Since I'm running OEM fluid I still think something is not quite right. I'd rather not add something if I dont have too... Though it is my understanding that the newer Matic isn't quite the same as the old original stuff. MIke

Mine sits at a 1/4 when up to operating temperature, winter or summer. I replaced the stat about 2 years ago, it didnt change any. Now - it was -17F this morning and the heater SUCKS with a 170F 'stat. I'm going to put in a 180F here soon,.

I think its got the right stuff in it.....is that an option though, maybe I should switch fluids. What i'm hoping is I dont need a valve body cleaning or something, though it would make sense if there wasnt enough pressure somewhere due to a valve being blocked or something....

the VQ wont fit in the engine bay....its DOHC. lots of cutting. VQ is distributerless, VG has one. Right there you've got yourself two major issues.