Inyourface1650

How are these holding up?

But again, its FWD and is using AWD designed for snow. You want to use it for a RWD application - so double the torque there (AWD vehicles typically can only send 50% to the none primary drive axle, some can do 100% but only for short periods of time) - and then you have low range, so now your talking possibly 4x the torque loads that the thing is designed for. its going to snap like toothpicks. I'm not just talking drive train here, your talking bushings diameter/loading, bolt load- wheel bearing loads, tensile strength of the steel used in the construction, A-arm wall thickness etc. I really like the IRS idea, but I think the Escape is a poor option. Get the IRS out of a R51 Pathfinder, or any number of Truck based RWD SUV's in the last 10 years.... These will be designed to handle the torque loads that you will put on it with a 4x4 with low range.

Thanks for the Tip Stalker....He responded within 30 minutes on that SN!

They probably weren't 4000lbs but 6000lbs sounds about right. You want 1.5x vehicle weight for your winch. Now typically that's loaded though.... My pathfinder is 4000lbs empty figure 5000lbs loaded.... Only a 7500lb winch. I have a army recovery manual.... And that's why they recommend. Uphill in mud 2x vehicle weight in pulling power is recommended

I must admit the bfg a/t is kicking butt out in the snow as well

I run 85 up here no problems but yeah the whole elevation thing :-)

Have you looked at an escape rear drive line? It's designed to take a maximum of 50% of the total torque from a front wheel drive 4 cylinder engine with no low range. You'll shred the thing the first time you use the truck for anything other than mall crawling. You have more power, more weight, and your rwd!! The cvs are waaay smaller then our front ones...and the diff is puny.

Torsion bars are in the front...you have suspension links (trailing arms?) in the back. BTW I just got yet another one from the jy for $12.99.

I PMed him a couple of times, haven't heard back, would really like one!

What no-one has mentioned here is in addition to the stiffness is the weight. I went from D rated tires with steel wheels to C rated with Alloys and holy cow could you feel the difference - in acceleration, braking and handling. Saved ~20lbs a corner. Half was the tires. Remember unsprung weight is the enemy - even on an offroad truck,.

I'm planning on a Lokka myself - its not a lunch box locker like your thinking. It provides continuous drive (always locked) operation on the inside wheel and allows a wheel to overrun the powered wheel (so the outside wheel can go around the corner)...

Man, I was hoping it would have the same molding for the clips as the OEM one. Drat!

Started right up in -17 this morning and shifted no problem. I Dont get it. I appreciate the advice on the additive, but these vehicles were designed to start and drive at -40F with OEM fluid and no driveability issues.... Since I'm running OEM fluid I still think something is not quite right. I'd rather not add something if I dont have too... Though it is my understanding that the newer Matic isn't quite the same as the old original stuff. MIke

Mine sits at a 1/4 when up to operating temperature, winter or summer. I replaced the stat about 2 years ago, it didnt change any. Now - it was -17F this morning and the heater SUCKS with a 170F 'stat. I'm going to put in a 180F here soon,.

I think its got the right stuff in it.....is that an option though, maybe I should switch fluids. What i'm hoping is I dont need a valve body cleaning or something, though it would make sense if there wasnt enough pressure somewhere due to a valve being blocked or something....

the VQ wont fit in the engine bay....its DOHC. lots of cutting. VQ is distributerless, VG has one. Right there you've got yourself two major issues.

Yeah it does. I am jealous of your seatbelt clips Kyle94, the only one of them that is still intact in my back seat is the one for the middle belt

Fair Enough, it was probably matic D. I went to the dealer and asked for the right stuff the first time, and the 2nd time they did the change themselves....

Hey guys, I just moved to Denver from Phoenix AZ, and a problem which affected me once in a blue moon (like twice in 2 years, when i went to Flag in the winter) is giving me alot of grief here now its cold. Basically, when the truck is dead cold (first start after an overnight), if I shift into drive or reverse, the truck stalls. If I gun it and do a neutral drop, it will go, but its very obvious that its working harder then normal... Once I'm moving - it rushes to 2nd or 3rd gear waaaaay before it should and then grumbles about being at super low RPM, like 800RPM while doing like 20MPH. It feels very...mushy at this point. Basically, it feels like to me that the torque converter is locked - that explains the stalls. Maybe a shift solinoid on first causes to move on too quickly? This only happens below...oh.....20F. (hence the twice in two years in PHX), and goes away as soon as the truck has rolled a 1/4 mile - the first stoplight by my place- it then operates like normal. If I sit and warm the truck up for 10 minutes before I leave, it doesnt do it (torque converter pumping warms the fluid?). Fluid was changed at 170K, and at 205K with OEM Nissan Jmatic. Truck has 208K. Again, this is nothing new - and its been doing it for the last 40k miles...except it hasn't, because it was never cold enough lol.

I had two D40's, a 05 and an 07. Your so far on the right track, and have mentioned the usual suspects. Only other thing I can tell you to watch is the fuel sending units going out all the damn time - and remember if its not a NISMO or PRO-4X, it doesnt have skids. Sliders and a transfer/gas skid are a MUST on those things they are very long and low. I wore out 2 sets of OEM skids in less than a year on my 07 NISMO. when I gave the truck back they put a 3rd set on (lease). Clubfrontier.org is your best route (I'm on there too). NewX isnt bad - It basically all transfers over - same drive train - rear springs are a different length lol, and thats about it.

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Nefarious" data-cid="648908" data-time="1356808203"><p> My gfs pathy just had the same problem,, only once it got cold and it was horrible leak. Tightened the clamps now its fine, lol</p></blockquote> Yep I just went out and did the same thing, plenty of gas leaking out of the side right behind the distributer

I've got a set of the poly I can sell you if you'd like . I just pulled complete links from the junk yard. They don't take long, but the bolts are tight... You'll need a 1/2 ratchet and a 2 or 3 foot breaker bar. You can get them all Off which the truck sitting on its tires... Just work from underneath

Just reading the description, it sounds to me less like somethings wrong, and more like you are facing the realities of 153HP on something that weighs nearly 4000lbs.

4x4parts of course delivered the Poly 5 days late -so we ended up running to the PickNPull in chandler and got some upper links. Ripped the ones out my Pathy, and lo and behold they were good. Replaced them anyway, since we had them out. Kept looking around, and the lower link is the one with the bad bushing...*Head/desk*. So either the Nissan mechanic was guessing or I just heard him wrong. Anyway, It was too late in the day to get the lower, so I'll get a new one out of JY here in Denver this week. Its easily accessible, and I'm confident I can do the work now. And send back the 4x4 parts bushings....... ALSO: Just an FYI, my 3/4 Inch ratchet/socket set ($32, from Harbour Freight) , and a 2.5 foot pipe had no problem cracking the bolts. We also had a 450lbft impact which did some good work as well. I also test pulled the lower link bolts - Easy peasy since Koveman had already had em off once Mike

^ and this is me not looking at the diagram closely enough. If you open the FSM, and ZOOOOM. you realize that it shows you to remove the bottom rubber boot, and then remove the 12mm bolt that holds the hiem joint to the splined bit. Basically you leave the splined bit there, and just unbolt Heim. I got it off pretty easily, but our 120V welder was too small to weld an extension in, we kept breaking the welds. - pulled 2 shifters from the JY - I can do it in about 5 minutes now - 3 bolts. Unscrew shift knob. Slid under truck, remove bottom rubber boot, unbolt 12mm bolt on heim, unbolt 2 12MM bolts holding the shifter on its pivot. Pry shifter off. Easy! Mike