Inyourface1650

Yeah it does. I am jealous of your seatbelt clips Kyle94, the only one of them that is still intact in my back seat is the one for the middle belt

Fair Enough, it was probably matic D. I went to the dealer and asked for the right stuff the first time, and the 2nd time they did the change themselves....

Hey guys, I just moved to Denver from Phoenix AZ, and a problem which affected me once in a blue moon (like twice in 2 years, when i went to Flag in the winter) is giving me alot of grief here now its cold. Basically, when the truck is dead cold (first start after an overnight), if I shift into drive or reverse, the truck stalls. If I gun it and do a neutral drop, it will go, but its very obvious that its working harder then normal... Once I'm moving - it rushes to 2nd or 3rd gear waaaaay before it should and then grumbles about being at super low RPM, like 800RPM while doing like 20MPH. It feels very...mushy at this point. Basically, it feels like to me that the torque converter is locked - that explains the stalls. Maybe a shift solinoid on first causes to move on too quickly? This only happens below...oh.....20F. (hence the twice in two years in PHX), and goes away as soon as the truck has rolled a 1/4 mile - the first stoplight by my place- it then operates like normal. If I sit and warm the truck up for 10 minutes before I leave, it doesnt do it (torque converter pumping warms the fluid?). Fluid was changed at 170K, and at 205K with OEM Nissan Jmatic. Truck has 208K. Again, this is nothing new - and its been doing it for the last 40k miles...except it hasn't, because it was never cold enough lol.

I had two D40's, a 05 and an 07. Your so far on the right track, and have mentioned the usual suspects. Only other thing I can tell you to watch is the fuel sending units going out all the damn time - and remember if its not a NISMO or PRO-4X, it doesnt have skids. Sliders and a transfer/gas skid are a MUST on those things they are very long and low. I wore out 2 sets of OEM skids in less than a year on my 07 NISMO. when I gave the truck back they put a 3rd set on (lease). Clubfrontier.org is your best route (I'm on there too). NewX isnt bad - It basically all transfers over - same drive train - rear springs are a different length lol, and thats about it.

<blockquote class='ipsBlockquote'data-author="Nefarious" data-cid="648908" data-time="1356808203"><p> My gfs pathy just had the same problem,, only once it got cold and it was horrible leak. Tightened the clamps now its fine, lol</p></blockquote> Yep I just went out and did the same thing, plenty of gas leaking out of the side right behind the distributer

I've got a set of the poly I can sell you if you'd like . I just pulled complete links from the junk yard. They don't take long, but the bolts are tight... You'll need a 1/2 ratchet and a 2 or 3 foot breaker bar. You can get them all Off which the truck sitting on its tires... Just work from underneath

Just reading the description, it sounds to me less like somethings wrong, and more like you are facing the realities of 153HP on something that weighs nearly 4000lbs.

4x4parts of course delivered the Poly 5 days late -so we ended up running to the PickNPull in chandler and got some upper links. Ripped the ones out my Pathy, and lo and behold they were good. Replaced them anyway, since we had them out. Kept looking around, and the lower link is the one with the bad bushing...*Head/desk*. So either the Nissan mechanic was guessing or I just heard him wrong. Anyway, It was too late in the day to get the lower, so I'll get a new one out of JY here in Denver this week. Its easily accessible, and I'm confident I can do the work now. And send back the 4x4 parts bushings....... ALSO: Just an FYI, my 3/4 Inch ratchet/socket set ($32, from Harbour Freight) , and a 2.5 foot pipe had no problem cracking the bolts. We also had a 450lbft impact which did some good work as well. I also test pulled the lower link bolts - Easy peasy since Koveman had already had em off once Mike

^ and this is me not looking at the diagram closely enough. If you open the FSM, and ZOOOOM. you realize that it shows you to remove the bottom rubber boot, and then remove the 12mm bolt that holds the hiem joint to the splined bit. Basically you leave the splined bit there, and just unbolt Heim. I got it off pretty easily, but our 120V welder was too small to weld an extension in, we kept breaking the welds. - pulled 2 shifters from the JY - I can do it in about 5 minutes now - 3 bolts. Unscrew shift knob. Slid under truck, remove bottom rubber boot, unbolt 12mm bolt on heim, unbolt 2 12MM bolts holding the shifter on its pivot. Pry shifter off. Easy! Mike

Hehe, I can tell you either mine doesn't work or I don't have one - the GF ran my '94 out of gas on New Years Morning (1am on the side of the highway, fun!)

Check your rear link bushings, just fixed the problem for me!

Thanks for the diagram, I have eveything off but the spined interface. It might just take a gear puller, I'll try that next.

I have the I-Beam lowers as they were already replaced, but round (kinked) uppers. Were there I beam uppers or are you guys only talking lowers? Mike

Alright guys, I attempted to get a transfer shifter out of JY pathy ( just to test how hard it is) and ran into a snag. Removed Center console - Good Removed Rubber Boot - Good Removed Shift Gate bolts (2) - Good Removed Pivot bolts (2) - Good Remove splined attachment to the T-case. ARGH!. I removed the 10mm nut, lock washer and regular washer that looked like it was clamping the shifter onto the T-case splined shaft - but could not budge the thing. Is there something I am missing? Or do I just need to PBblaster the hell out of the thing this week before I try and take it apart?

Yeah RR has johnny joints, but they are specifically designed for flex. Steve has mentioned body roll is a bit of an issue with them, which makes sense since they are designed to flex. I went to the JY today and brought my 3/4 ratchet set. Best $32 at Harbour Freight ever. 22MM is the bolt head size and I could get the bolts to turn without a breaker bar, so I'm not too worried about that..I just need someone else to come help me pull em. I guess I'll just do that and Poly it up. Mike

I must admit, I had the dealer do it. Cost $200 + parts. Well worth the price

Top Rear bushings, Shot Completely - gone gone gone gone. Bottoms are ok, were Junk Yarded by PO...(can still see the paint pen hehe) I'd like to do poly. - but I read around that they would limit flex (makes sense). has anyone done the swap and have a quantifiable answer to how much flex is limited? I can also just junk yard it, but the newest truck on the lot as 174k...so I'm not sure how long those will last. Lotta work to do every 10k miles on JY bushings...Though - $12.99 a link and plenty of pathys to choose from. I'll be driving back to AZ for Christmas, so I can do the swap myself. Otherwise Nissan wants $1300 to replace the whole set. Pepboys wants $158 a link to do bushings, but doesn't say what kind of bushing they put in. ($650 for all four).

Any update on this? I'm pretty interested in one....

My door has all sorts of problems as well, and its the hinge pins. I can move the door up and down a couple inches. Unfortunately now that I live in an apartment I have lost my tools and workshop to the storage place . I had replaced the door handle, pulled the entire latch assembly, soaked in degreaser, cleaned, regreased, worked great for about 3 months, and then suddenly one day stopped. Broke the hnadlle again lol. I wonder what the stealership would charge to replace the pins. Does anyone have a walkthrough on how to replace them?

Yeah...I grabbed a 3.0 fan and it basically didnt work - get a 3.8!

I thought that looked like 'Tukee. I'm there also. Well...for another 4 days. Moving to Denver CO on Friday. Shame we didnt get together earlier!

come on peeps!

yeah I have the shifter, just gotta throw it on. I wanted that transmission tunnel plate cause everything bolts so nicely too it . The pictures were just to show WHY I got the shifter.

As for the shifters, looks like the end of the Ignition interlock cable is different, so I snagged the R50 one, though of course this is not required. Not installing that cable would allow the shifter to be moved from park even if the ignition was off , if got past the interlock. Also it looks like the electronics are different between the two shifters. Wd21 has two connectors, R50 has one. I will splice.

Picture Time! 1998 Green R50 4x4 1994 Black/Green Wd21 4x4 Color is Right on. Console Front/Back alignment Gap caused by Ashtray Mount - will have to be removed Thats the ashtray mount that is holding the console up. you can also see the parking brake Console to Lumbar clearence, this didnt seem to be a big issue? This is the R50 console cover plate (this is what changes between the auto and manual consoles) covering the WD21 shifters. You can see the WD21 shifter is much closer to the center of the truck then the R50 one would be. This is the transmission tunnel plate from the R50. The WD21 also has one. I plan on swapping the tunnel plates as well as swapping shifters.the R50 shifter mounts on that flat portion to the right with the 4 vertical studs.