sewebster

There is a long screw that you turn to adjust the tension, but it is locked in place by a locknut that clamps it down in the middle. Probably the locknut is hiding behind the pulley... Look from underneath with a flashlight maybe.

My offer of $77 was declined. Hmm.

Just put in my offer! Thanks for the posting.

Cool thanks for the video. I was going to add a pcv valve to my upcoming rock auto order, but I can't find one in there. Odd. edit: found it eventually under emission. I was just blind before.

You have the VG30E already. The VG33 is from the next gen pathfinder. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_VG_engine

I don't know how to fix it on the truck, and it probably isn't really the best idea. I bet a million more holes are about to break open anyway... (if it's rusted at least). I actually tried to weld my car gas tank back together (note, I realize this is a really bad idea, but we filled it with liquid nitrogen to prevent any oxygen from allowing combustion, nevertheless, don't try this!), but failed because it was too decrepit and as soon as you fixed one leak, another would open up. Gas tanks aren't too expensive I think... probably worth just replacing and saving you hassle of trying to patch it. But if you don't have the cash...

Yeah, I admit to not having used a compressor Anyway, truck looks great!

I haven't done it (my ford springs are totally loose when the rear is jacked) but wow James, that sure SOUNDS harder than just attaching a spring compressor...

Haven't done it on my pathfinder, but have on my car. It was pretty easy, I think I just put the jack under it snug, unbolted, lowered slightly wire care, watching the connections until I could get at them to undo, then lowered the rest of the way. Actually I probably went under the rear seat (would be under the trunk I guess on the truck) and disconnected some wires first. But I'm not sure how much this applies to the pathy, sorry.

Nice valve spring compressor! If you want to avoid pressurizing the cylinder you can just rotate the crank around so the cylinder you are working on is always at TDC, that way your valves can't fall down. Actually, I think it even recommends this method in the FSM.

I had those on front and back with only a 1" suspension lift. But I don't think I'd recommend it. As a spare... maybe.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=20711

How do you tell if your compression rod bushings are shot? Mine don't exactly look new, but I can't wiggle them around by hand (front end jacked). Of course, I'm not very strong...

So both light bulbs are on for sure, it's not just one causing the next-door one to appear lit up? You could pull the cluster and see if anything funky is going on back there I guess, but I'm not sure what you'd really find.

Well, there are two distinct situations. If your heads were too worn and you needed the shim on the outside of the locate plate, then that would be bad, because then the shim would have to rotate around on the sliding surface between the locate plate and the head. And probably it would get destroyed as you say, however my case is the opposite. I need the shim to be squished between the locate plate and the end of the camshaft, where it will remain immobile, never moving relative to anything. It will of course spin around with the camshaft, but that is irrelevant. So unless my camshaft bolt loosens, nothing bad can happen. And that would be bad with or without a shim.

Clevite lifters are coming... I really hope they are good this time! The new cams I got (Beck/Arnley) seem to be slightly too short (can't rotate when you tighten the rear bolt). The dealer can't get the locate plates anymore, but that wouldn't have helped anyway, as the max adjust in the negative direction those go is about 1 thou. Mine needs 5 thou shimming to get within spec! I guess it is easier when it is off in this direction because you can just add a shim washer. If it's the other direction you'd have to get your washer/plate ground down in the center.

Looks like by making the frame level to the ground I actually gave myself almost 3" of lift in the front! So I need to drop that down to match my 1" rear lift.

I also have an SE without flares.

Throttle position sensor?

Regardless of the shock brand? I was in a rush and could only get some Monroe ones...

I guess you mean the OME 1.75 inch lift springs on this page? http://www.rocky-road.com/pathfindersus.html I probably don't want to lift it any more, since I just replaced the front shocks with standard ones, and at already 1" in the front I don't know how much more they can handle. But that's a good option to consider down the line. I don't plan on doing anything too extreme very soon, so maybe I'll see how things go. If I ever have a problem then I'll probably swap the springs out right away. Going back to stock probably wouldn't bother me too much either, so those variable springs might be nice. Thanks for the info folks.

There is one front cable from the lever to the middle of the underside of the truck, then there are two cables joined near there. One goes to each rear wheel. I believe both rear ones are the same if you only have RWD, but that the right one is different if you have 4WD with a manual transmission (according to the rock auto listing). Not sure what auto trucks have. Probably best to bring yours for comparison. I'm not sure I'd get them from the junkyard though. Mine seem to be seized currently, but not broken. You don't want that. When I pull the lever it still does something, but I think the inner cable is supposed to move in the housing and i don't think it is... at least on one side.

If I jack up the rear of my truck so that the wheels are off the ground and are at full extension, the tops of the springs aren't touching anything. Is this bad? They are some springs the previous owner installed from a Ford something. They give me about 1" lift... just not sure if this means they could be shifting around when I go over bumps. Probably it isn't a big deal since he (previous owner) drove it a lot with this setup, just not sure...

I picked up some "new to me" used galleys from an engine rebuilder place for $10 each... because mine were slightly out of spec (too large of course). But maybe I need to use my old ones and try to enlarge the holes even more! But there's basically no way I'm going to try this and risk destroying my new cams etc. again... Ideally everything would be in spec and just work. Unfortunately one of the "good lifters" I just got was "soft" too, totally squishy so I guess the oil leaked out.

ARGH! Just got a set of 12 Beck/Arnley lifters. 10 out of the 12 of them are oversized (8 or 9 10ths of a thou over, which is almost as bad as the previous ones that seized). This seems insane. I'd doubt my micrometer, but the zero is good, and it seems all the lifters I've measured (either brand) are either spot on, or almost 1 thou over. Nothing in between or whatever. The guy at rock auto said they don't get many returns, but I can't see how since the other oversized ones caused instant destruction for me. Maybe I should try harder to get the Clevite brand.