sewebster

Did you check for engine trouble codes? The temperature sensor is probably less than $20, so if you suspect it, might want to just replace it, but could be something else...

I'm kinda surprised people are breaking studs, rather than just stripping the heads... which was my problem. Were the original holes supposed to be interference fit to keep them in the head? If so, a previous owner must have tapped the holes on me. I just finished drilling them out and put in bolts instead as it was easier and cheaper. Should hold up fine unless I start taking them off a lot.

So is the royal purple 75w90 ok for the transmission (5 spd for a 91) even though it says gl 5 on it? (as well as gl 4)

If you are burning or leaking oil, even slowly, but rarely check your level, you can get down very low before you'll get the oil pressure light, since as stated above, it's just a pressure indicator, not a level.

Ok, so maybe I don't even have a problem after all. That would be nice

Presumably if your block was cracked you could also get coolant leaking out the tailpipe But you should be able to tell the difference between a little bit of condensation (which would be clear) and a lot of coolant (green or amber), right?

Ok, cool. So I guess there is a one-way valve somewhere in the evap system that prevents air from flowing back in. So my original question makes sense... why would my gas tank develop enough overpressure to leak fuel out the lines? Either there is a clog, or I somehow had the lines low enough to siphon, those are the two possibilities I see.

Yeah, got tons of wood around. Thanks guys, I think this gives me some ideas on my options. I'll get it back in there, hopefully this weekend! Starting it up is a little scary though

Another question, sorry So, when I pulled my engine I just left the fuel lines in the engine compartment. I noticed a couple days later that fuel leaked out sometimes, and I think it was during the day when the garage heated up. I'm pretty sure the lines were above the level of the gas tank. I solved the problem by pulling the lines up as high as I could get them, above the hood level. I am wondering if I have a clogged line from the tank to the canister though... shouldn't that be relieving excess pressure? The line on the canister side looks clean, no carbon leaking out of canister. Maybe the gas tank is just higher than I realize and I was siphoning? But the lines really weren't all that low, they were at like the same height as the battery or something... When you open your gas tank and you hear the air flowing, is that pressure coming out, or air going in to relieve a vacuum? If it's gas coming out, then why doens't that go to the canister too?

Could get screwed up by the granules?

T-bars are already dropped (too bad I forgot to mark their positions before disconnection). Yeah, I guess if I do decide I want to move the transmission at all I can just do what you say... so this doesn't need a jack because everything stays supported?

The manual transmission? Seems pretty long to pull out as a unit, not to mention requiring some pretty intense acrobatics with everything on the hoist? Hmm.

I pulled my engine without removing the transmission, as this is what it said to do in the Hanes manual. My FSM has since arrived and it says to remove the transmission before pulling the engine? Any thoughts on whether I should take it off before reinstalling the engine? It would likely be easier to get the spline to engage by reinstalling the transmission afterwards, but then I need to take it off. I guess I should get down to reading the manual to see how much work it is... of course I don't have a transmission jack, so I'd have to rig something up or buy something, maybe an adapter for my floor jack. I really don't have room to store a transmission jack unfortunately or else I might just buy one.

Yeah, already done I guess I'm just wondering if my transmission seal could be leaking too. Probably it's just from years of build up. I guess I'll clean it out and keep an eye on it when I next reopen things. Ordered a clutch kit, might as well stop thinking about it.

Yeah, maybe I should just do it. I should have mentioned that the reason I don't know how long it's been in there is that I just bought the truck. Any ideas why the inside of the bell housing is full of black goo? I guess either the rear main seal of the engine was leaking or there is a leak in the front transmission seal. I guess I should check the FSM to see how easy it is to replace that (got a new rear crank seal already of course).

Have you checked the engine trouble codes? It could identify a MAF problem for instance...

Well, maybe not quite flat broke yet, but I'm getting there with the cost of this engine rebuild. I hear what you're saying, but if all the parts are already almost brand new then there is really not much point. Hmm. I agree that the kit seems to the be way to go if I do anything.

I have a 1991 with the 5 speed. My clutch is off because I'm rebuilding the engine, so now would be a good time to replace it if necessary. The factory manual says to replace if it down to less than 0.3 mm above the rivets. I have two depths of rivets on mine, but it is about 1.25 mm above the taller rivets (more to the lower set). Anyway, 0.3 mm sounds like not very much... I'm wondering if anyone knows what the clearance is when new so I can tell how used up my clutch is... ? Thanks!

Yeah, I think it is ok. My understanding is that people often switch up to the VG33 studs which are 10 mm. Are they even the same heads actually? Anyway, I went to M10x1.5 instead of the M10x1.25 from the VG33 but same diameter.

Yeah, thanks. I've been convinced Got distracted drilling out bigger holes for my exhaust manifold studs so I still haven't installed the intake

Well, I got it put back together. I think the FSM should say counter-clockwise at one point instead of clockwise and it all works. Odd.

Yeah, so I think you guys were under the impression I was going to forego the gasket altogether! Sorry for the confusion. Nevertheless, I'm guessing your replies mean that you rely on only the gasket and it seals things fine without the RTV, so thanks

I'm trying to decide if I should tap to M10x1.5 (the standard pitch, doesn't match the VG33) and just cut up some grade 8.8 M10 redi rod. This would be way cheaper than buying the VG33 studs. But I might just leave things as is (with the stock M8 studs) and change things later if it causes a problem. Of course this is so much easier now with the engine out...

That was rather emphatic I do have a "real gasket" or at least, I think it is real, they came from a sealed power/fel pro engine gasket kit. They do seem to have some rubbery parts on the coolant port portions. I'm not sure if you were objecting to the thought of using no gasket whatsoever, or to the thought of adding some RTV to the gasket.

I'm going to go take another crack this afternoon (truck is in a friend's garage). But I think I do have it on there right. Basically you just want the "prong" of the spring pointing "up" such that it can rest against the top side of the stud. Otherwise it would be resting against some part of the oil pump or something. I guess the reason I posted here though, is that I'm trying to make sure that if I do follow the "thread method" that I have things on there right. I'll take some pics later if I can't figure it out.