sewebster

The FSM has some pretty detailed pictures/instructions on the LSD.

I think if you get bigger tires you float better.

What does the middle bolt attach to at the front? Mine just has a hole there (not rust, seemingly on purpose).

Cool. I guess that is a simple answer and it makes sense.

So my truck is missing one of the rear window back plates that apparently covers up some air outlet port. My question is... what air is exiting here? Where does it come from etc. I think the plate is just ornamental as the outlet points down, but it got me curious about the purpose...

I did put a magnet in there when I put the pan on last. Maybe I'm just worried over nothing.

Not that I'm doubting you, but how do you know they are just "standard grade"? The biggest problem I have replacing auto bolts with standard ones is that I don't know which ones are some super strong versions... I guess maybe you can tell from the 7 or 9 or whatever on the head? And presumably by "standard grade" you mean 8.8?

Is the width of the wheel just what you'd think, just measure the width? I think I have the stock "lego" wheels, the ones with the little triangle like hubcap thing. Are those wider? Because I just switched from 33x12.5 down to 31x10.5 on them...

I think my plan is to securely attach a small rare earth magnet to the end of some bent welding rod and fish filings out of the bottom of the pan through the drain plug for a while. I considered cutting the bottom part of the pan off and welding it back after, but that's probably too annoying under the truck. Maybe if I had a hoist

You can probably just order them from the dealer. They'll be like $5 a bolt, but there are only 4 right?

So after some dud lifters ruined my camshafts, I'm wondering if I should drop the pan to clean out any metal dust that's in there, but of course it's a significant task. How much of the engine/transmission do you have to unbolt? The FSM makes it sound like basically the whole thing. Do you need to slide the tranny back to get the pan off? I guess I'm trying to figure out if it's worth doing. Sigh.

Awesome, thanks!

Yeah, I should probably go fishing around in there and also visit the junkyard.

So, what is the purpose of those grilles? My truck (91) is missing one entirely...

I guess I might as well do the diagnostic procedure and see what the problem is first Thanks for the advice.

Cool, thanks. Pulled the cams today.

Yeah, I think I got it figured out. Thanks. So I have about 1" of lift, as I expected (previous owner apparently installed some springs from a Ford pickup). Now, what I did to level things was crank up the t-bars until the frame in the middle of the truck was parallel to the ground. I'm not sure if that is good, or if the front is supposed to be lower. I should have done the official measurements, but now I guess I'd have to lower the t-bars to the stock height and then crank them up again to figure it out.

Anyone ever pulled the cams without pulling the heads? Looks like they will thread out the front if I remove the grille (took the rad out already)... but I'm not sure if I'll be able to get a ratchet on the rear bolt. Hmm. One way to find out I guess. Do people usually replace those gaskets on the rear head covers? I used some that came in my full gasket kit, but don't see them available separately. Could try the dealer next.

So my rear ABS (disc) doesn't work. Haven't done the diagnosis yet. Do you think it would be worth fixing? Why rear only ABS? Seems like it would be more important up front so you could steer. I understand that it would be easier to lock up the rears, but maybe that isn't as important... Adding the words antilock anti-lock brake system for searching people.

I'm just trying to figure out how to do my1path's measurement for rear lift to see what's going on with my rear springs...

Yeah, I'm just hoping there is no more damage when I pull it all apart. I think I may have heard some piston/valve contact at the end when the cam was worn down enough, but I'm not sure. I'll pull the heads tomorrow. But if I just need to replace a couple valves again that isn't such a big deal... we'll see. In retrospect, some of the lifters did seem tighter than the old ones, but nothing too bad. And that kinda makes sense, since you might expect the old ones to be somewhat worn. Even now though the oversize lifter I examined actually slides ok by hand in the guide... but it is 1 thou above the upper diameter limit (the range is only 0.6278"-0.6282", so 0.6292 is huge). I'll have to see if I need new lifter guides now. Those could be harder to track down.

Found the problem... some of the new lifters seized occasionally in the guide, as they were manufactured too large in diameter. Now my cams are destroyed. Best rebuild ever. Hurray for Sealed Power. Maybe they'll send me new cams. Ha.

Ok, thanks. So then the plane of the vaguely u-shaped stabilizer bar should be parallel to the plane of the ground if you are at stock height, right?

Sorry for the dumb question, but what is the "sway bar"? The straight panhard rod behind the rear axle, or the bendy stabilizer bar in front? Thanks.

Do you have a LSD?