sewebster

You probably want to source the rod ends and then get someone to machine the rod for you... I would guess this is the ideal sort of product for an operation like Fleurys to sell

Jeez, I should drive down and buy that transmission from you if you buy it...

Well, I think that sounds kinda bad... I think with both cams as TDC only cylinders 3 and 5 should have an open valve, so you should still get resistance from most cylinders. I try not to spin the crankshaft without the timing belt on though, so I'm not exactly sure what it would feel like

You can disconnect the AAC valve at the connection on the passenger valve cover too, I think it's the only connector there with 2 wires. No reaching

I doubt you're going to learn much doing that sort of thing, unless of course you have pieces of valve in your cylinders or something. The engines are barely interference it seems (which is kinda dumb IMHO) so I don't think you can tell much at hand speed.

Cmon you gotta tell us how you did it or post a pic or something!

Is the Wrangler Unlimited (this is just the 4-door version right?) a respectable off-road vehicle in general? Or do you have to stick with the short Jeep (which has obvious advantages, but no storage space)?

Well, if you didn't replace the rotor before, you should do it now, super cheap and easy. Otherwise, MAF sensor?

Ok, I'm fairly confident that for MPFI pathfinders (because I read the FSM last night) that the "air regulator" (the tower thing) is for cold start only and the AAC valve is the thing in the idle adjust body that controls idle all the time. But anyway, we're just talking terminology and acronyms now.

I'm pretty sure that the ECU controls idle at 750 rpm... so it has to know how fast the engine is spinning to do that, right? When you say "IACV" do you mean idle air control valve? Maybe I'm messing up the terminology, but I think that's what I mean when I say AAC the electric plunger in the idle control body. Just found this page which does a good job talking about this stuff. The air regulator should only affect things when it's cold, but I actually don't know what the connector is for. Theoretically it could be a fully mechanically operated valve.

The top is the stock? I didn't realize R50 tie rods are that much smaller than wd21? But are you guys talking about bending the rod, or the ends. Or maybe I don't even understand which part is which on the R50.

The ECU controls the idle speed with the AAC valve, which is basically a little electrically actuated plunger in the IAA body. The screw next to it just pushes another plunger in which can also serve to restrict flow. The "tower" is the air regulator. It allows extra air to flow into the intake when the engine is cold to increase idle speed. I know my screw is turned all the way out and my idle is fine (except occasionally it drops too low, but I don't think this is a screw issue). I guess now I'm curious to see if anything would change if I turned it in. I know that before I used the screw to lower the idle, but I later found a vacuum leak. I turned the screw all the way out to try to increase idle before when I had an oil pump problem but no dice. edit: if your engine idles too high it could be the air regulator, a vacuum leak, or a throttle stuck open issue. In terms of sensors that control idle, I would guess that the only thing would be the crank angle sensor, which tells the ECU how fast the engine is turning?

SKF is a huge bearing company. It's what I used in my wd21... they seemed of high quality. Ideally wheel bearings shouldn't even need much attention... but you need to make sure they go in clean, with enough grease, and that they are adjusted properly and stay that way.

So there is a bunch of stuff going on here... and you need to break it down (even though it could be related in the end). So, right now your truck starts. Good. Your problem is the batt light on. Sounds like an alternator problem. So, maybe start by measuring battery voltage. Measure it when your truck is off, then measure it when your truck is running with the alternator charging it etc. Since this seems a bit hard to track down I might take the alternator to get bench tested somewhere too, probably you might even get this done for free. See what your results are from this and then go from there. If your truck won't even start then that's something else (could be related, but it isn't exactly the same thing), and then you deal with that when it happens...

Well, uh, it isn't broken

Thats pretty sweet. I wish I had enough motivation to do something similar, but my other car isn't a Nissan. I also wish I could have one key for the ski rack, spare tire padlock and "Club." But they all use different cylinders too. I guess a worldwide standard for lock keys wouldn't be the best idea...

Yeah, for sure. I was mostly just noticing the huge variation in prices on commodities worldwide. Pretty crazy. I guess most of the cost of our gas here in Canada is taxes.

Heh, wasn't a comment on your advice, just seems like a common question

Wow, you still have heat shields? I guess if I did I might not be patching holes in my floor right now.

Oh for $0.65 a litre... $1.31 here today... and I was thinking that was pretty cheap and a good time to fill up when I saw it (that's $5 USD/gallon).

The FSM says to remove the transmission. I think most people don't do this, but it gives you an idea that removing the engine isn't completely trivial. There are a bunch of options... if you try moving the transmission back, then yeah, you're going to need to disconnect it from the transmission mount. I didn't move my transmission or front diff but I removed the front suspension crossmember... this involved dropping the t-bars. Not sure if I would do it that way if I did it again (though now nothing is rusted on, so maybe).

There must be a howto on this somewhere?

Enlarged the holes in my floor and started the patching process. Cut out patches and tack welded them in for the holes in the cargo area and under the drivers feet. Next I gotta tackle under the rear seats. It's pretty bad on the driver's side back there. Do you guys think I need any of that hardware besides the seatbelt? Some of the stuff I don't even know what it is, there like this weird rubber strap, then there is the seat hold down. I don't think that should be a safety concern to remove.... seatbelt does the work?

Gotcha. I guess it doesn't get absolutely everywhere in there, but better than nothing.

Cool. Paintable sounds like a good idea... I saw that asphalt stuff and I just thought "sticky." How do you apply the fluid film?