m0nkeyprince

the iridium plugs last longer, that's why they are pretty much standard on newer higher priced engines like the 2GRFSE on lexus. However, performance wise, copper is king. i put in Laser Iridiums because they last a really long time, somwhere in the range of 100k miles.

what storage space are we talking about? the really small one underneath the trunk carpet? if there is another storage space that would be an even more surprising secret than the reclining rear seats

i use NGK wires, NGK Laseriridium plugs, and for the intake, some people have the jim wolf tech pop charger

Hey silvapathy, you should recommend your shocks to him, if they have enough travel for YOUR lift, ill bet its gotta be more than enough for his 2 inch lift.

I did not order new bolts, just cleaned and reused the old ones. When you taking the bolts out, since you have 4 wheel drive, two of them are going to have a small metal pipe on top so you are gonna have to squeeze your bit between that and the pan. If you reuse the bolts, there are thread sealers available from any auto store right next to the threadlockers. Another caution when changing the ATF, when done cleaning the pan, do not over tighten the pan bolts too hard. If you tighten it to the degree the new gasket is being squeezed out, thats too much. I think the torque spec is somewhere round 10 ft, lbs. Have you cleaned your MAF or throttle body? after 80k miles, there was black gunk crusted on my throttle body valve. Also i +1 the thread locker on power valve screws, its gambling the life of your engine if you dont. Congrats on your 100k

i hear ya, its a b*tch to change the T belt

The problem with introducing Syn Motor oil to an engine with higher mileage is the fear that the new oil might spring new leaks or damage the engine because the old crud all come loose. however like you said, if your engine is running like new, if it were me, i would go full syn with new oil filter, then change the oil after 3000 miles, then 5000 everytime after that. Or if you'd like, there are conventional and synthetic blends, you could do that, then switch to full syn afterward. But honestly, for me, i switched at 70,000 with no problem

LOL dept of defense registered vehicle?

nope, the cv joints are sealed by the boots. if they are clicking, that usually means they are damaged. Are the boots torn anywhere? anyways, new cv axles are not too expensive, i got AUP ones for 85, but you can get empi or other brands for around 50. if the boots are torn, you can replace them yourself but its way more trouble, which is what i did only to find my new cv boots were crap (dormans) and tore after 5 miles. So unless you go with the best (rockford duraboots) then you should get a new axle. however, if the boots are not torn, and the clicking is only sometimes i dont think its too much of a problem, if i were you though, id get new, cheap axles, then take my time to rebuild your oem one. when your done, you can put the oem one back on, and you will have a spare axle for other times the cv boot tears. also, if you dont already, you should highly consider manual hubs. This disengages the front axles from the front wheels so when you dont need 4 wheel drive, it will stress your 4wd components less, plus you gain a lil better MPG. Getting the hubs was the reason why i could have taken so long in fixing my torn cv boot.

cool, so the guard will attach to the frame no problem. hmm my only remaining concern is if the qx4's bigger bumpers will impede anything.

thanks! i just wanted to know if there were any fitment issues with the old qx4's, the cutting involved, but the general consensus seems that it will fit but just not as flush. it would still be nice to find out if any older generation qx4 owners have brushguards meant for the newer r50s

i looked everywhere, didnt really come up with anything haha but thanks

Does anybody know if brush guards made for the newer generation qx4's and pathys will fit my 1998 qx4? i would really like to be able to get the OEM aluminum brush guard that is available to 2001 up r50's

5w-30 mobil 1 all the way! 10w-30 makes my engine start up time 1-2 seconds slower on cold days.

for cleaning the MAF sensor, get their spray, its only like 5-6 bucks, cleans quick and evaporates in a few seconds. The Q-tip would be pretty dangerous, the wires are very brittle and it you break it, thats a $200 mistake haha but if you have steady hands, that works too i guess

10w-30 isnt bad, its supposedly "thicker", that way, it wont leak as bad through old seals? anyway, i travel through -4 degrees C sometimes during long trips, so 5w-30 is ideal for me all round, i need it to flow. Funny, i bet -4c is like a summer day for the canadian members here jk,jk, you know i love the great white north

yea, like precise1, i just run mobil1 5w-30, and mobil1 oil filter, dont use any fram crap. change it every 5000 miles and it shouldnt matter which synthetic you use. Also, if you have been running conventional and suddenly switch over at such high milege, i think theres a problem with that, but check it.

but the stock shocks were like that too? just without the boot, i looked it up, and yea, only ranchos are like, and i dont have rancho shocks lol

do i have my shocks upside down? it makes sense though does it? the outer bigger part is on the top, if it was on the bottom, there would be a "cup" for water to stay. I dont know about ranchos though,i actually think they are supposed to be mounted upside down, but for people with regular shocks like kyb, i think the "cup" faces down so water and dirt wont collect.

OKay so these last few months, i have been driving another car (a 2007 lexus GS350) as my qx has been sitting in one spot due to cv axle change, broken air duct, cleaning the spark plug holes. So after i drove the Qx4 today, wow, extreme body roll and poor acceleration, and omg, the frkn windows that take forever to open and close (im gonna fix that soon with some silicone spray), The drive to morgan hill was pretty harsh, so while im there, and with access to a garage, i decided to replace the shocks. Difficulty rating: 1/5,very easy, the only hard part is to compress the new shocks so it will fit over the mounting bracket, other then that it was smooth sailing. Funny, it was the first time i didnt run into anything that would extend the project to a couple days. I know this shock install applies to 97-98 pathfinders/qx4's not sure about any others Things needed: Jack (i used the emergency bottle jack) Scissor jack (would make life much easier) Jack stands 17, 19, 22 mm sockets screwdriver Wd-40 or equivalent Your New shocks paper towels an hour of your day Prep: 1. jack up the rear of the frame, using tire chocks up front (the front brakes arnt engaged) remove spare (i never have my spare on anyways, too heavy) 2. you might want to wear safety glasses as there are a bunch of lodged dirt and debris that falls down, i had to rinse my eyes out like 3 times 3. spray penetrating fluid on the nuts, spray both sides on the bottom bolts n nuts, and just the nut on the top and wait a bit, 5-10 mins Removal: 1. Using a 17mm socket for the outer nut and a 19mm for the inner bolt, loosen and remove the bottom bolt and nut, it might take a bit of strength, but it will come out. 2. then, using a 22mm socket for the top nut, remove that too, i kept the tire on, but it might be easier to take the tires off. Make sure you dont lose the washer that goes between the eyelet and the nut. 3. after you loosen the top, compress the shock from the bottom and take the bottom eyelet off the bottom mounting bracket. My shocks are 90k old, they compressed without any strength at all. To remove the top part, you have to unscrew 1 screw off inside the fender, that way it can be pulled back, and the top shock eyelet can be taken out. 3. remove the shock, then clean the mounting brackets, bolts and nuts. my old shocks were soo bad, that they dont even decompress LOL Install: 1. For the install, you want to install the top part first, take your new shock (this case my kyb gas-a-just with polyurethane boots) and while pulling plastic, push the top eyelet through the bolt. I know some people install these shocks upside down (i guess rancho does it that way?) but DO NOT do that, if you do, there will be a "cup" for water to sit which will seriously kill your shocks pretty fast. 2. Do not tighten the top bolt yet or even put the washer and nuts on, with the shock hanging straight down, you need to compress the shock so it will fit the lower mounting bracket. These new shocks were really hard to compress, so i got a scissor jack off the lexus and pushed it up like so... 3. you just need it to be about as high as the lower mounting bracket. This is the tricky part, quickly push the bottom shock eyelet towards the lower mounting bracket and it should decompress perfectly into the bracket.The point is to use the time it takes to decompress to put the eyelet over the bracket. 4. now that the shock is pretty much mounted, put on all bolts washers, and nuts, the lower bolt might be a little tricky to put on, you can use the scissor jack to move it around a little but i just used my arm with my elbow against the ground. I put a little loctite blue,a habit. tighten the nuts a little, do NOT torque them to spec until you are done with both sides and the jacks are off. I dont know the torque specs yet so i just tightened them really hard. edit= FSM says the top nut is 59-78 Ft LBS and the bottome bolt n nut is 67-88 Ft LBs Install on the other side and voila The test drive. wow. there was an IMMENSE reduction in body roll, i couldnt find any speed bumps but i went pretty fast around the corners and it was really nice, not knife point precision, but it was way better then before. Once my jackson missing link comes in, anyways, after the test drive and you are happy with everything, retighten everything, clean up, and relax! Seriously, if you never replaced your stock shocks before DO it, its not only safer, it makes it a bit more fun to drive! Observation, did you know our stock shocks are also KYB? And i cant believe they cost so much at the dealers, well , what DOSNT cost a fortune at the dealers

thats badass man, submit this photo for the pathfinder of the month haha

Just placed my order by phone, i wonder how long it will take? cant wait! haha

thanks, yeaa i did email john and he confirmed 180sx's answer. With the order placed today, i cant wait till its here haha

i am also thinking about getting their missing link. But i have one question, since it only bolts onto one side of the control arm bushings, dosnt it make it uneven, then hard to torque properly?