m0nkeyprince

also, which section is the distributor found in in our FSMs? it should be in electrical right?

so before i buy a new distributor, i would like to know if that brown dust is normal, any of you guys, or gals, willing to check for me?

updated!

thats why i try to get oem in critical parts. if you got it off amazon, they have easy returns, thats where i get most of my parts, even my evap canister (brand new for 74 lol) keep us updated

nope, it starts from idle i think it actually recedes a little after a i go higher speed

i reused the old valve, did you btw get a dorman valve? also, sometimes, after reinstallation, you should double check the lines if its not the charcoal bits, im pretty shure the valves is the problem

updated thread with pics!

okay, so i looked at my distributor, underneath, there is a fine coat of brownish red dust (sort of looks like brake dust) in the cap and on the rotor, i though, well, i will just replace my cap and rotor, but it looks like i have to replace the entire distributor assembly as the bushing is going bad, so called, the "red death". Any body else heard of it?

youre welcome

DO NOT go to the stealership, get it from rock auto, the part they have might seem like aftermarket, but its actually OEM. its around 120 i think on rock auto? i got it off amazon brand new for only 75, but they only had one left. So get the rock auto one (dont forget thr 5% code). it soudns crazy but its true, i compared the one i got off amazon, and its exactly the same as the oem one, down to the nissan logo and part numbers

I was on the freeway when i felt the engine hesitate a little bit , at first i thought it was the road, then it happened, again and again, then when i pulled to the exit, the rpms just kept on pulsating like bouncing from 500rpm to 750 rpm, a "room roooom rom rom room room" sound. It made it one of the scariest drives home ever because the power kept going on and off and on and off. Seems like it happens more on the low gears though, i dunno. I just replaced my evap canister and added a new battery, and just had my smog check done, everything was okay. Any suggestions? PS during the smog check the mechanic said something was wrong with my timing, said it wasnt 15 degrees TDC but when he went on the computer to prove it, the computer said 15 degrees TDC and he said nvm. edit: I now think its the distributor bearing thats failing, it was coined the "red death" when i did some research on google. anyways, i took a look under the cap and rotor and heres what i saw

I just fixed my P1440, You might have a broken charcoal canister and charcoal has filled your evap lines. In your engine bay, there is a hose section with a small green cap and a tag that says service port, pull that hose out, and if it is a broken charcal cansiter, charcoal should fall out

Did you make sure the bushings are greased? thats very important, thats why i try to do all auto work myself, you never know if a mechanic cuts corners and itll be restless not knowing for sure. If you do it yourself, you know for sure

http://forums.nicoclub.com/6-spark-plug-on-the-3-3-any-ideas-t514591.html

ebc slotted (drilled will crack) and hawk LTS pads

Dont forget to lock your hubs once every month, i havnt for 3 months and the right hub seized. I had to to take it out and completely dissemble it to relube everything. When one side dosnt unlock, you'll get steering wheel vibrations at highway speeds, thats how i found out.

now we need a new excuse to invade different countries lol seriously though, i hope we can get our troops back home, ive met enough iraq vets (no one from afghan though, weird) to know that after they get discharged, they get the minimal treatment for their injuries, and even the ones who didn't get shot, many suffer from nightmares. No money for their care, yet billions to Blackwater (now Xe) and Aegis private military company whose stock soared during this "war on terror".

i didn't know you could add the cabin air filter even if it didnt come standard. after i cut the slot, there were like leaves and all kinds of other @!*% just packed in there, no wonder when i turn my ac on, the vents seem to "shoot" bits of dust and other things at me. One of the easiest mods. i got my filters from amazon, they have the ATP charcoal ones that are supposed to "absorb" odor.

I went with ebc slotted rotors, and hawk LTS brake pads. I would have gotten the ebc 7000 greenstuff pads but they were hard to find. The yellowstuff wears out way too fast and gives off alot of dust The hawks were also well packaged while ebc pads i have gotten are usually just stuffed into a box and alot of the paint having chipped off and some extra pad material sticking out, the Hawks were chamerfed precisely, and shrink wrapped. Dont forget to bleed your brakes, i bled mine with ATE's superblue fluid.

hey, try to see if your hubs are seized, my left side warn hubs wouldnt unlock so whenever i drove at high speed, the wheel would shake. took me forver to figure one of the hubs werent working, i locked both sides and the vibrations were gone

lol they make the clean5000 mobil1, SUV&Truck mobil1, the regular mobil1, all in the 5w-30 weight. Do not use the "clean#" mobil 1 because they lose their protective properties after 7k miles (i think the analysis was from bob the oil guy) I usually use the regular 5w-30, although i saw 2 quarts of "truck&SUV" mobil1 5w-30 from pepboys for the same price, and mixed that into my usual oil change. i believe the truck&SUV formula has a higher level of zinc, not to sure though.

Like the majority of opinions here, Switch to synthetic and change your oil every 5k. I switched at 70k miles and changed my oil after 3k (because i had this impression that the synthetic oil would dislodge all the old sludge left by conventional, which might or might not be true, safe insurance though). And at 5k intervals after that it dosnt matter which synthetic oil; valvoline full syn, or mobil 1, especially if you dont go over 5k intervals. I go with mobil 1 because it's proven, cheap, and available at costco

will it be blinding? i am looking for hi/lo xenons as well, and if you angle it down slightly (cuz of your lift), it should be okay right? i thought the problem with people switching to HID's is that its almost like having hi and lo beams on at once, but i would imagine that wouldnt happen if you go with bi xenons.

hey thanks alot!, i was just about to cut my bump stop in half haha this should be pinned cuz i bet alot of us are gonna spring for kyb boots

lol head to the state of Wyoming sometime, THEY are crazy about guns.