m0nkeyprince

sorry, i meant ill try the bench vice first, the whole project dosnt seem to hard now, except for taking the trailer bolts out...

thanks for the pics trailchaser, so the poly bushings dont need a metal band inside like the stock ones? How big is that fitting guide you have ? i like my1path's idea better, ill try that instead, or maybe some vice grips first, see if they will work. what do people use for the lube? i have seen "greasable" trailing arms so i might as well use the correct lube to get it in there in the first place

Im planning on siwtching to polyurethane bushings for my lower control arms, however i dont have a press or access to one. would this work? also, to cut off the metal band left inside after the bushing has been burned off, a good ol' recipricating saw would do the trick yes? any input would be appreicated, thanks

i looked at the website, and whoah! you did all that for the rear disc brake conversion? thats some spirit, it looks like a b*cth to do. Maybe when i have more time, ill try it out, really want rear brake disc... but now, i need to focus on front rotors and pads first..hmmm i think im leaning on the dba 4000 + ebc 7000 green stuff right now, if i could find a deal for the dba's then ill probably take it

monterey? thats crazy, i go down there all the time! i m from cupertino, its near san jose, yeah, CA-17 can really take a toll on your brakes, and suspension, luckily im getting my shocks and struts in a week or two, where do you live at now?

you have a point, but i drive through mountain roads quite often, and ive only expierience brake fade twice, they were almost the scariest moments of my life, so i was thinking better rotors would keep cooler a bit. thanks for the replies!

right now, ive already decided on ebc greenstuff 7000's but for the rotors, im still debating. DBA 4000, with "kangaroo paw" cooling, the 6x6 wiper design http://dba.com.au/4000-series or EBC USR http://www.ebcbrakes.com/automotive/sport_slotted_brake_rotors/ultimax_blackdash_usr_slotted_rotors.shtml anybody used these rotors before?

hmm just a thought, but have you checked the child safety lock? maybe it was switched on by accident?

I just got my Kyb's delivered this morning but when i looked at it, the quality was just horrible. The weld between the eye and the shock body looked as if it was dont by soemone who never did a weld in his life before.Also the paintjob was also pretty bad. then i look at the code number on the shock and i understand why now, it was made in fckn malaysia, not that i had anything against that, but i was so sure it was made in japan and at least the shock would look a little better. I mean, it dosnt matter too much, as they both are going under my car, but i dont want my gas-a-just flatting out after a couple thousand miles, or the eyelets to break off. Anyone check where theirs are made from?

thanks all! yea, i have found some GREAT posts on timing belt installs so that shouldnt be a problem, i have a couple projects still, mainly, my shock/strut, rotor/pads, and currently my cv axle rebuild. Hey precise1, youve been to lake berryessa yea? i go rafting there whenever i can, best damn lake ive ever been so far, im sure Santa Rosa is near it, i saw the highway signs on my way there.

Ran RP for a short while but saw an analysis that shows RP wearing out really fast, and hearing bout their marketing practices. So now i stick with good ol' Mobil1 5w-30 along with various filters, K&N (which i think is over proced, just like RP) bosch, and now i got a great deal on amazon, $12 for a pack of 2 mobil1 EP syn filters which many people swear by.

I have a 1998 qx4 which is nearing its 100,000 mile bday, along with the timing belt change which i kinda dread doing. currently im working on replacing the boots of my front left cv axle, its taking a while because of parts, etc. To my knowledge, i am told that the pathfidner and qx4 are essentially the same SUv? looking at many of the posts, no one seems to have a qx4.