lint

ATF is specified in my '95 SE. That's what came out, and that's what went back in.

'95 Pathfinder: I just changed the ATF in the transfer case and the guy at the store told me Dextron 3 was superceded by Dextron 4 which was superceeded by Dextron 5 and that they are all backwards compatible (anyone have a comment on this?). When I changed the ATF in the transmission, I bought the fluid at the dealer as I've read that the transmission is very particular about what type of Dextron it uses. That said, it seems that all Dextron fluids are not created equal. My advice: suck up the costs and buy it from the dealer when you are changing it in the transmission.

GREAT idea for the metal mesh! I'm gonna do something like that. Thanks for sharing your idea!

My last ride was an '88 Jetta with 365,000 original km on a gas engine (and is going to my 16 year old nephew). Older than my '95 SE, but the quality of parts is much better on the Nissan. The Jetta went thru 4 exhaust systems, 2 rads and a bunch of other stuff in its time. The Nissan is my 6th vehicle and I bought it used and it is definitely not a clunker! Now that the maintanence is up to date, I'm planning on driving this for the next 10 years and hope to surpass the VW's mileage. Nissan created an easy to maintain, solid and reliable vehicle with the notable exceptions of the exhaust manifold studs, oil filter location, AT cooler, headlight wiring and frame rust. Get this stuff sorted and you've got a good rig. Some people complain about the fuel economy and I agree it could be better, but like others said before.....it's paid for, it's mine, and I'm not making payments on some plastic bumpered rig that is costing me half my paycheque to insure. Just my 5 (Canadian) cents.

I used zap-straps (zip-ties) after mine broke when I was trying to remove them to clear out the accumulated leaves....I always thought it was ghetto. Now, after reading other solutions, I'll go dig out my speed nuts. Yay!

Maybe it's this? Technical Service Bulletins Date: 02/15/2000 Component Name: 020000 SUSPENSION NHTSA #: NTB99074 SUMMARY: SOME VEHICLES BUILT BEFORE JN8AR07S4XW350146 AND EQUIPPED WITH AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION MAY EXHIBIT A CLUNK NOISE FROM THE REAR END OF THE VEHICLE WHEN STOPPING. *TT

Yeah yeah, off to the JY today....there is no way in hell I will pay 73 for lug nuts! My tranny cooler didn't even cost that much! I'll look for some Jeep GC coils too while I'm there...

Thanks for this link! The yokel shop here wants 73.00 for a set of 24. eeesh!

I can't do math, there's too many numbers....

you guys rock! Thanks so much for your help, that would've taken me at least a day to figure out! Now I can go wrench on other stuff.

I've got a line on some ugly and cheap OEM steelies for my winter set....maybe that might be the route to go instead of the Toyota rims I was originally considering. If I go to 16" from the original 15" how does that affect my gearing? Clearance? Anything else I need to consider? Pros and cons are welcome. Thanks for your opinions!

How fast do you drive on the hi-way?

Well.... if they were binding, your rims would be hot to the touch after a drive. There would be quite a bit of brake dust generated which, if you hosed off with a gentle stream of water would show up as blackish particles in the water. You may also be able to smell them burning...but that depends on the compounds and the degree of binding. Just remember; before you go poking around your brakes the compound dust is usually very harmful to your health, and can cause cancer. I always rinse my brakes down with water before I work on them to remove the dust.

LMAO with this thread! :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Your original post: "hi guys what is the differance between 2wd + 4wd front fenders?? " My opinion is: "I can't see a difference, can you see a difference?"

Yer messin' with my brain man!

Check your brakes, maybe they are binding or seizing up on the sliding pins. There is a thread on a service for the sliding pins here, somewhere, but I can't find it at the moment.

Sorry to hear about it, that sucks! I'm keeping an eye out for it in Kamloops and area.

Nunya, Thanks!!! Those are the rims! That was exactly the info I was looking for. Too bad the Toyotas use a different thread pitch (12mm x 1.5) on their studs from Nissan (12mm x 1.25)...bummer. ....well, wish me luck trying to find a "top hat" lug nut with a Nissan pitch. I still have time before the snow starts to fly.

Yeah, yeah, the ali "4 spoke" ones from 86-94 truck. Maybe I'd be good to go if I got a different taper lug nut?

Howdy! In searching through the forums, I haven't found the answer regarding running 15" Toyota rims on my '95 SE. The OEM Legos (with 31x10.5x15) are 15x7 JJ & have a backspacing (to tyre) of 6" and backspacing (to rim) of 5" with an offset of 25. I just got a set of 4 toyota rims on a good deal. The Toyota rims (with 31x10.5x15) are 15x7JJ & have a backspacing (to tyre) of 5.5" and backspacing (to rim) of 4 3/8" with an offset of 8. With the legos mounted, 1/2" of the stud threads are available. With the Toyota rims, only 3/8" of the stud threads are available. I know some of you (Silverton?) run 'yota rims...do you think that only having 3/8" is a problem with keeping the rims on? It looks like the tyres will fit right and w/o clearance issues. I got these rims cheap with the intention of running my winters on, but wouldn't feel bad about selling them off if any of you think that I should. Cheers, Lint Just found this out: Minimum thread engagement must be equal to the thread diameter of the wheel stud or lug bolt.

I had something like that happen to me. As it turned out the tailpipe was separating from the muffler. Why the sound happened at slow speeds is beyond me!

Well, I too think it is too much. FYI, I had to spend 900 for parts for a tune-up which included: plugs, dizzy, rotor, fuel + air filters) pcv, oil press sender, coolant sender, shocks, AT cooler, AT temp gauge, ALL fluids (oil, at, brake, front + rear diff, transfer case, coolant) and f + r shocks. (I do my own work). Wait, and look for a 4wd. I paid 2200 for a 95 SE w/ 112k miles and with recent timing belt, w-pump and exhaust manifold studs replaced (and that was a 1400 bill from the shop!). The tires are nokians and are good for another 3 summers. So really...the guy got 800 bucks for it...... My advice: search out the craigslist daily for your city and others nearby. Don't worry about the "book value" because, really, it is a buyer's market when it comes to used vehicles. A lot of people just need / want to sell their old rides. Good luck, they are awesome trucks! d

26 ?

Seems like you blew your meatcleaver. I hope you picked it up, 'cause those original factory ones are gonna cost you!