ahardb0dy

I would try using Mothers pre-cleaner on the hood (whole car if it makes the hood look better), pre-cleaner will remove oxidation, if it makes it look better be sure to follow it with a wax as pre-cleaner is not a wax. If you can feel the black marks with your finger nail than you can try Mothers clay bar, it works really well. Wax after the clay bar too.

Sorry to go off topic, Nissan does not use a 6 x 114mm (that equals 6 x 4.5"), bolt pattern on the older trucks, the pathfinder and hardbody use a 6 x 139.7 mm or 6 x 5.5" bolt pattern, as well as what was stated already, Toyota 4x4, Mazda, Isuzu, older Chevy trucks (1/2 ton), Mitsubishi, Only 2005 and up Nissan (and some Dodge dakota/Durango's) use the smaller bolt pattern you mentioned. back on topic, nice work, looks good !!!

Well that still could be an option as I have not gotten to the painting stage yet

I knew a guy that had a Chevy V8 in his hardbody, I know you have to "massage" the firewall because the distributor is tight fit. Advance Adapters used to sell adapter parts but no idea if they still do.

What paint did you use is that a flat or??

How did you get the chrome to peel off? Some areas that I sanded I can see the copper color under the chrome so I know the chrome layer is not that thick, but no where does it appear that the chrome would peel off.

So today I got to meet one of our members, Ezlife (Don), I gave him a headlight I took off of my PF when I switched to hardbody style headlights and in exchange I got a chrome Hardbody grille. I don't have any chrome on my PF and want to paint the grille black. I sanded down pretty much most of the chrome with some 320 (may have been 220) wet/dry sand paper. I'll wipe the grille down with isopropyl alcohol before I paint or prime. Question is should I use an self-etching primer or a adhesion promoting primer first? The self-etching primer says: "Dupli-Color® Self-Etching Primer etches and primes bare metal in one step, making it ideal to use as the first step in all automotive priming projects and for use on spot repairs. A high-quality formulation allows for maximum adhesion under all types of automotive finishes on plastics, fiberglass, bare steel, aluminum and stainless steel surfaces." and the Adhesion Promoter says: "Dupli-Color® Adhesion Promoter improves adhesion of enamel and lacquer topcoats to all surfaces, including plastic and chrome. Adhesion Promoter is an all-purpose clear primer ideal for both interior and exterior applications." So I guess either one could be used on plastic. What do you think? Thanks

Next time, try putting a BFH behind the knuckle than smacking the other side with another BFH

The tie rod tools work good as long as you are replacing the tie rod end, sometimes it can damage the rubber boot. I never had a problem getting one to separate doing it the way Nunya said, nice hard smack on the side of where the tie rod goes into the knuckle.

You could go more than it appears they are cranked in that pic. I wouldn't recommend going much more. The lower control arm already looks like it is angled down pretty good. I see you have aftermarket control arm, and about a 1/4" maybe slightly more of clearance between the upper arm and the bump stop. If you just drove the truck on the street and only went four wheeling occasionally the CV axles would probably last a while, if you 4 wheel all the time they probably are not going to last long. I like to keep my suspension sitting with the lower control arms like they look in my picture below, maybe slightly more of a downward angle, I still have stock control arms and the stock size 31's in this pic:

I don't see how the CV is in the way of the lower ball joint. The ball joint is bolted under the lower control arm so once you separate it from the knuckle and un bolt it from the arm it should come out. You may have to push the upper control arm down so you can lift the ball joint out of the knuckle.

The one cat back on the 4x4parts site says Borla on the muffler, the other one looks like a Gibson muffler.

did you happen to check the output of the alternator? The voltage getting lower from the first time you checked it to when you checked it when you got home, could be an indication that the Alt is not charging the battery, so installing a new battery as you discovered did not fix the problem as once the new battery drains down you have the same problem as you did with the old battery.

See my post on the door lock timer here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/34301-wd21-door-lock-timer/

When I ordered them they were a neon green color, it's been a while maybe 3 years ago?? It was for my Sentra but they all should be the same, original one was a tan color. The one that broke and I found on the floor of the car.

second the above reply, original bumper looks like a broken life saver candy, new ones from dealer are a greenish color, if you have to order these order extra, the same bumper is used for the cruise control switch on the brake pedal and for the clutch if you have one, good to carry one extra in case you are in the middle of no where and same thing happens.

When i had my hardbody and the tension rod holes were oblonged, I had a machine shop make me 4 plates to fit over the area where the hole is, they used a punch to make new holes, than I had a friend weld them on for me. I didn't use any cups for the bushings to sit in and never had a problem. Per the FSM it shows the tension rod hole as 27mm

Welcome

There is not a ground wire in the factory harness !! Just hook the ground wire to the metal bracket that is under where the radio mounts, either use an existing screw or install a new one.

I replaced mine because they still looked stock, and I know from past experience with my old hardbody I used to own that those bushings don't last forever, so figured it would be good to replace them, I didn't have any noises though

Welcome, this was mine:

you need to use a wrench for the nut on the rear of the strut rod, can't get a socket in there, use a punch or screwdriver when re-installing the rod to line the holes up to the lower control arm.

I like Moog personally, I used them on my PF, Rock Auto shows two different part numbers one is listed as a problem solver not sure what makes it different but it is slightly more money. Think it is the one I used. The two Moog part numbers are : K200163 for $9.13 and K9515 for $19.44

I miss the beach permit and 4 wheeling on the beaches back home ! Yesterday, checked the oil and coolant and tire pressure on the PF since I haven't drove it in a few months, step daughter is using it as she doesn't have a car right now.

Early VG30i cranks used only one key way to locate the timing gear and the harmonic dampener, the one key is shared between the gear and dampener, I had this style in my 87 Hardbody, later models had two key ways and two keys, one for the timing gear one for the harmonic dampener. Per info on Nissan Nut's page that can be found here: http://nissannut.com/maintenance/vg33e_upgrade/compare/index.html 2 different cranks were used on the VG30, the difference is with the snout, one is 25mm one is 32mm.