ahardb0dy

Good you ordered the low profile bump stops, at least you will get SOME travel. No idea on parts suppliers in Sweden, can't help you with that.

In a truck 24 years old, I would recommend replacing all the vacuum lines, just do one at a time, I think in the VG30i engine there is only like 2 different size lines. The rubber gets funny when it gets that old, a small crack towards the end of the lines can go un-noticed. Better to replace them all and be sure, even if the vacuum lines are not causing the problem still should be done.

Well once you get the stuck pin out you should only need a standard 3/8" ratchet to get it apart the next time, just make sure to grease the slide pins. The craftsman set should have a 3/8" ratchet in it. I usually will put the ratchet with socket on the bolt and give it a whack with my palm and that is enough to brake it free, no need to tighten it to death.

It may have been just the 87's had one key. I thought the 88 was the same?? I had an 87. Is your truck with the spun key an 88 or a 90? I'm confused. I don't think I would trust the Loctite product to fix the crank, A JDM engine is an engine taken from a vehicle from the Japanese market, (JDM = Japanese Domestic Market) supposedly the inspections are so strict over there that car/truck owners are encouraged to buy a new vehicle rather than spend what they have to to get their older vehicle inspected. So the vehicles engines and trannys are removed and sent over here to be re-sold as a low mileage engine, most JDM suppliers claim the engines have less than 60K miles on them. I have bought 2 JDM VG30's, the first one looked brand new when I got it, the freeze plugs were clean and gold, under the valve covers the rockers had a slight gold glow to them, it looked new, my mechanic at the time was very impressed with the condition of the engine. It ran perfect and felt very strong. The second JDM engine I bought and the one currently in my 94 pathfinder wasn't as clean but it did have the Japanese "pitwork (Nissan's performance brand name in Japan) oil filter on it so I bought it, it runs perfect. Usually depending on where you get the JDM engine you can get one for around $700 .

The leak more of a 1/2" tear I had in my hardbody tank lasted for years, probably still not leaking after I got rid of the truck with the 2 part gas tank product I used, I think if anyone has a small leak and it is easy to get too I would try the gas tank putty first before having to spend $130 or more to get a new tank, just my opinion.

could be if the crank bolt was loose causing movement, or if it worked it self loose, ?? As I said there is only one key on the early VG30 cranks about .50 to .75 long and two parts share half of that, the timing gear and dampener, not really a good design but I guess it works pretty good, besides myself I only have heard of the OP that has had this happen. Before it happened to me nothing was ever touched as far as the crank bolt so it wasn't left loose, so who knows why??

You may need to pull the regulator/motor and clean the motor (inside) worth a try before having to replace it. Did you try to roll the window down from the drivers side window switch? They are known to fail, if the window that doesn't want to play nice is the pass side try the pass. switch to see if it works. Make sure to spray the windshield rubber so the silicone runs down and lubes the rubber inside the door, be careful on the ground because some will probably drain out the bottom of the door so watch you don't slip on it. Another tip if you need to pull the regulator/motor assembly, after removing the door panel and the plastic barrier, roll the window down far enough to get to the 2 10mm bolts that hold the plastic clips that are glued to the glass to the regulator, after the 2 bolts are out, raise the glass all the way and use wooden wedges between the glass and inside weather stripping to hold the glass in the fully closed position, Than it is just a matter of removing the regulator upper and lower bolts and three bolts for the motor, and un pluging the plug that goes to the motor, I have pics: the two bolts that hold the glass to the regulator: regulator mounting bolts: ok, sorry back on topic

You should be able to get the pin out, use a punch if you have to. Clean all the old grease off ( probably why it is stuck), make sure to use new silicone grease on the pins. I had this stuff called sylglide I think it was, got it from Napa,

If it did this more often on cold days could be the mixture heater below the TB, any codes?

I checked 5 different years on rockauto they all said the same 15 gallons, probably a typo as was said.

Same place, that is where it is on my neighbors xterra

On my 87 hardbody the key sheared twice and no internal damage was done. You need to inspect the groove the key sits in, if it is damaged the only real way to fix it would be to weld in new metal than shape it so it is correct. When it happened to me the second time, my mechanic at the time suggested replacing the engine, reasoning that if we had to pull the engine apart to replace the crank, with the miles I had on the engine who knew what else we may find, so I bought a JDM engine and he swapped it, ran better than new with that engine ! Should mention after the first time, he installed a new timing gear, damener, crank bolt, and key, tightened it all to spec and about 2 months later the same thing happened. Had to replace the timing gear and damener because the groove the key goes in was chewed up on both parts. The early VG30 engines only used one key for the timing gear and the damener, later engines had a seperate key for each part.

10-4

Isn't the oil filter in the front of the engine on the Car50? Don't think it is hard to get at if that is where it is.

either is changing the oil filter with the body lift ! back on topic

mine was leaking under the dash, pass side, I sealed the bottom and side of the windshield and it hasn't leaked since.

what he said , can you tell if just the pulley is turning or the crank too?

was down late last night ( early this morning), no idea how long went to bed,

not really good either ! Check out Ace Hardware if you have one near you Aegis, I picked up a cheap Weller soldering iron from them, ( my more expensive Weller needs new tips and no one stocks them locally), and the one I bought from Ace gets hot QUICK !! Makes soldering easy. Think it was like $17 with 2 tips, some solder and a little stand. On my door lock timer, last time I had it out, I was just resoldering all of the connections whether they looked bad or not and when I put it back in the locks are working perfectly again.

Thanks, I thought their would be a gap between the grille and the lights also but the edge of the grille has an extra peice of plastic on it that looks like it is designed to fill the small gap on either side. Today I'll take a pic straight on since no one is behind the truck. My grille with the lights I'll probably hold onto for another 20 years, LOL it's already 20 something years old, I still check e-bay once in a while for the lights for it, they are not Hella's they are Carello and are a certain size, slightly larger than comparable sized Hella and Bosch lights. The Carello's are getting hard to find and the people that do have them for sale want a ridiculous amount for them since they were available stock on Ferrari and Lamborghinis the people treat the lights like they are made of gold !!!

I don't go 4 wheeling much, haven't gone yet at all actually but if you do go often you could fab up a metal cover to go between the tire and the filter. I think the thick rubber of a semi mud flap would be thick enough. I would probably mount ( the rubber) like I did with the covers I made for my hardbody when I had the body lift to cover the gap between the frame and the body, mount a few 1/4 -20 bolts through the metal with a nut to hold the bolt in place but have enough thread to put the rubber over the bolt, than either use another bolt with a washer or drill the end of the bolt and use a washer and a pin, so the rubber can easily be removed when you need access to the filter.

it may ride better or feel like it rides better, but with only a 1/4" between the arm and bumpstop wait to one of the tires hits a dip in the road or trail you will definetly know/feel it than ! Did you get or do you have already the low profile bump stops?

the body sitting higher off the frame on the D21 may have something to do with the amount of salt/ water spray getting on the bottom of the floor pan also ???

it always does the second, third time, etc LOL!!

I agree on the filter placement, I started to do the relocation but had a problem with the adapter, think it was bottoming out on the nipple before the adapter made contact with the filter mounting surface so it was leaking bad. Next oil change going to try it again, I have another adapter. Some people put the filter under the hood I was going to (still will) mount the filter up under the fender than use part of a semi mud flap to cover/protect it from any possible flying debris, Plus putting the filter where I am going to allows the filter to be removed straight down and I can use a larger filter, can also fill the filter first after changing the oil this way. pic below: