silverton
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Posts posted by silverton
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Caliper Bracket is another term it goes by.
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I have a coworker with a Juke, I'll pass the word along. Thanks for the heads up!
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conor, if you can use the vg33 oil pump, it's far far far superior to the vg30 oil pump.
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It's not mix and matching parts. It's using the VG33 block, with VG30 cams (if you can), and then bolting the factory accessories to the new block.
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It's probably a bad strut. Just because it's new, doesn't mean it's good.
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It's not so much a rebuild that you would be doing, but reshimming it instead. I think the shims are still available through Nissan, but uncertain.
An LSD in the front would help you get stuck deeper in the woods where even the Jeeps couldn't reach you
If you can find one, I'd do it. Not sure if the 240sx aftermarket units work or not though. -
Us crazy kids just trying to get to the bottom of an unbelievably broken OEM timing belt from too rapid of an RPM change, essentially trying to talk someone out of buying something they don't need that is possibly much more expensive.
But back on topic folks, else we gets the whip again.
Where could one locate such an incredible timing belt if they were so inclined?
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you can replace the bulb easily, Radio Shack sells one that will work, I did it on mine,
It's a wheeler. I just rock the switch in the mode I want a few times to be sure.
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You have a TWO pound flywheel? That's got to be next to undriveable! It's a truck, not a race car, put a real flywheel in it
I did have a lightened flywheel in my S12, 14-16lb if I remember right, and a Z31-Turbo OEM clutch.
I am with slartibartfast though. There are several engines here that have gone from high RPM to 0 from inexperienced water crossers. Bent valves, broken cranks, etc, but never a failed belt.
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The light in my switch died, but I can feel the difference between the two.
Better names for the modes would have been "couch" and "washboard"
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I had done many many FAST rpm changes in my old car. The counter shaft bearings in the transmission failed before the timing belt.
My old S12 I lived the "never lift" motto once it had a five speed
Nothing like a 1st to 2nd shift with the throttle pinned, quick stab of the clutch pedal, trans making a satisfying crunch, and barking the tires. 10,000 miles of that abuse and the transmission gave me a big middle finger.
So, seriously, it wasn't the belt. -
Those are pretty light considering. Lighter than the factory SE lego's anyway.
O2 sensor's on any VG is a major pain.
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Probably wouldn't hurt.
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How heavy are your wheels/tires? Shedding rotational weight would free up some ponies.
Can't find specs on a 265/75R15 KM2 because BFG doesn't have it in their list of sizes available. Closest that size comes to is a 31x10.50R15 which weigh 46.4lb/ea. If you had meant 265/75R16 those weigh 52.8lb/ea Either way you cut it, you're spinning about 200 pounds of rubber. Add in to the weight of your after market wheels...
Besides doing a basic tune up and making sure your sensors are working properly, that's your biggest power hog, wheels and tires. Oh another thing, what's the condition of your cooling fan? Does it sound like it's spinning FAST all the time? A locked fan clutch robs a ton of power.
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It is that unconditional, absolute statement right there that indicates you are only talking about tight trails and technical obstacles. Maybe you do a lot of that, but I question if you have ever been in the dunes, marshes or desert where you need speeds and gearing over 25mph, hence the limited experience part. All sorts of 'off road' out there that needs 4 wheel drive and where 4low wouldn't work well...
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And by the same token, I'm experienced enough that I wouldn't complain about my truck being under powered when I'm trying to climb a steep hill in the wrong gear.
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That isn't really a definitive test...
Maybe on your local trails, but that statement just showed your limited experience.
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Cute.
If the truck feels like it doesn't have enough power to make it up a "steep incline" you're in the wrong gear.
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235/75/15 are actually 29" diameter (theoretically).
Yes, I'd definitely upgrade to 30 or 31" tires but don't feel alone, many people have talked about 3k rpm @ 65mph over the years. Too damn high, if you ask me...
I'm not sure where you got your info, but those numbers are also extremely low.
What is with swapping diffs to get 4.375 gears as well? Please clarify, because this looks like misinformation...
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I got all the data from the FSM. FD ratio, and OD ratio. 4.625(auto) FD ratio, and .694 OD ratio. I used an RPM calculator to get what RPM it should be at using speed, gear ratio, FD ratio, and tire height.
I included an automatic transmission with manual final drive ratio (4.375) just for comparison as I think it was brought up that it could have had its diffs swapped? Or maybe I just made that up. And also why I bolded an explanation after each one, to avoid misinformation getting thrown around.
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If you're towing or have a FULL truck just turn OverDrive off, you won't notice much of a MPG hit.. I recently drove to Oregon to tow a Datsun 1200 back. On the way down I got 14mpg cruising at 60mph with me and two people. On the way back, with U-Haul trailer with said 1200 and the same two people, I turned OD off for the entirety of the trip and got 12.5mpg.
And anytime you're "off road" you should be in 4L. 4H is basically for snowy roadways.
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My auto on 33's cruises 60mph @ 1,961rpm. The RPM's stated for the four cylinder diesel motors are most likely correct. four cylinders will almost always rev higher than a six cyclinder at whatever matching speeds. four cylinders have to spin faster to "keep up" with a slower turning six.
65mph, 4.625 gears, 32" tires, factory transmission, you should be spinning 2,191rpm. Factory auto gearing
65mph, 4.375 gears, 32" tires, factory transmission, you should be spinning 2,072rpm. This is only if both your front and rear diffs were swapped though
But if your tach is showing 200rpm off, it's hard to say, other than that your engine is spinning where it should be, even though it's indicated incorrectly.
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I know a particular VG 510 builder that would rev his up to 8,000, granted it didn't make any power after 7, but he did so frequently. Because racecar.
Sounds like an error in installation. Nissan isn't going to produce a belt that's going to cause a bunch of head aches from breakage.
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OT, but I'd like to congratulate you for owning one of the rarest Pathfinder's.
a 1990 equipped with only two doors is very rare. I've only ever seen one in person, and it was in the junk yard.
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And too many doors
It can be argued that if you're going to buy a station wagon, at least buy one with proper access to the rear seats.
Also, that straight wing does block some of the third brake light at eye level, but it's fine from a cars point of view. Also, WD21 third brake lights aren't all that great, and I've never had a problem of being nearly rear ended. 20 years and the LEDs aren't as bright as they once were.
Maybe you could opt for brighter bulbs? Maybe your tail light housings are cloudy? Or, just let someone smash in to you because they weren't paying attention and reap the money. Then you could even buy a Pathfinder with a CHMSL already optioned.
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For some reason I can't post a link in the body of a post, but I can in a quote? Weird. Have a fun read; it went on for quite a few months. And yes, I did cut the core support out to get the rad. in there. Don't worry though, I put it back in. I made it bolt-in like on an S-10. And for all you guys that think Subaru has a hard time off road... click on the second link. I've been wheeling with this guy. We passed a few Jeeps on the trails that wouldn't go where we went. Don't get me wrong, I'm sure I could probably do these things in a pathy too, but I did them in a STATION WAGON!
Now someone do some measuring and see if it will fit! I'm not afraid of a little cutting and welding. A V8 Pathy would be a blast. My first question would be will it bolt to the stock tranny. That simplifies things quite a bit. (It did in a Subaru;))
Thanks for the link! And a Pathfinder (90-95) is a station wagon too, just taller.
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It sounds to me like something is still out of balance. I had caked mud on the inside of my wheel once and it created a terrible shake at speeds 40-70. Either side of those speeds and it was buttery smooth though.
If you took it to the same shop to get the wheels rebalanced, try again but at a different shop.
The Great Muffler Debate
in The Garage
Posted
I came here to say that backpressure is a myth, but someone beat me to it.
2.5" is fine for our motors and even the 3.3L. 3"+ and you're getting in to turbocharged exhaust volume.