silverton
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Posts posted by silverton
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Okay I see now. Ill have to look into getting some.
You should have the wiring already to run them. The plugs SHOULD be hanging in the door, and behind the blank plate where the controls would go. I bet you even have a fuse in the "power mirror" spot already.
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If you insist on running fluid in to the cabin, just use one of the existing grommets. I know I have the power for my CB pushed through the same grommet the AC drain uses. I'm sure a small tube would be just as easy.
But please, for the love of life, use an electric gauge. They are so cheap these days it's stupid not to. -
did they switch to that style side mirrors when they did the 4 doors?
Yeah, mine are different. This is the style I have. http://www.amazon.com/NISSAN-PATHFINDER-MIRROR-Pedestal-9630211G70/dp/B000E4RE7O
You have manual mirrors. The power mirrors as picture above can also come heated. Heated mirrors are niiiiiice.
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what are the best economical shock absorbers. Ive seen monroes that are oe replacements that are really cheap at rockauto like 15 -17 dollar each range. Ive never replaced shocks so uncharted territory.
Ranchos or Bilsteins.
I bought Skyjacker Hydros for under $150 on 4wheelparts and am happy with the performance, but they were a pain to install. I had to put in the bushings myself and the bushing/sleeve were too wide where it mounts to the front control arm and I had to cut them down on each side.
Rancho and Bilstein get my vote. More expensive than the KYB's but they are known to last for several years and provide good ride quality.
These guys. lulz.
Monroe's are going to be better than what you have now, and they'll probably last the same amount of time. The rears are easy. Bolt up top, bolt on the bottom. I recommend fitting the upper bolt on the new shock absorber before releasing its holder to expand. The fronts are easy but there's an extra step. You need a smaller wrench (8mm maybe?) to hold the threaded stud while you remove the nut on the top, and the bottom is just a standard bolt.
Noticing you have an SE. Doing this will remove the adjustable shock absorber function, unless you can source new OEM adjustables, but those are probably worth more each than a whole set of Monroe's... or even Bilstein or Rancho's.
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The IFS is limited by design. No amount of aftermarket parts will fix that. You'll need to do a solid axle swap if that's what you want, and even then. Not worth it.
Really, what are you trying to accomplish by lifting the truck? Even with aftermarket parts it causes extra strain on other components and therefore they wear out faster. It's just not worth it! 33x10.50's fit without a lift and minor massaging of the quarter panels and fenders. If you want 12.50 wide you need to do the "3+3 lift" which involves the 3" suspension lift, and the 3" body lift and then I think you still need to beat the passenger side footwell in with a sledgehammer for steering clearance. Bear in mind, while you add more lift and more tire, you lose MPG, and they already get paltry numbers to begin with. My truck gets 13mpg mixed.
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Why not put a carburetor on the VG? Yes, very possible.
Or swap a VG33 over with VG30 cams, and then put the frontier/xterra supercharger on top? My truck on 33's with the 3.3 is night and day with my truck on 31s and a 3.0. It hauls ass for being a 5,000 pound brick.
Your first post mentions not wanting to dump a truckload of cash in for more power, but you're talking about doing a triple custom swap just for a few more torques that won't matter from a heavy engine that doesn't "fit".
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For $40 they change your oil, get rid of the waste junk, clean your windows, make sure all your lights work, top off your windshield washer tank (unlimited refills btw, you just have to stop in!), vacuum the floorboards, and on my truck they always checked the diff and tc oil levels, and I got to sit in their nice warm space and read car magazines I wouldn't normally see. I mean, really... who wouldn't?
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I'd put money it was the magnetoclutch for the AC compressor
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Just my two cents... From the sounds of it, if you had spent a dollar or three more on a distributor cap, it would have been imprinted with the cylinder numbers. All mine have anyway!
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Aftermarket upper control arms won't lift the truck by themselves, they are just to correct ball joint angle from raising the ride height, so aftermarket control arms without a lift isn't good either! The front can only go up an inch or three, but you run out of travel and the ride sucks. Think of it like this, totally theoretical but lets say the front has six inches of travel total. From the factory it sits at a static 0 right? three inches to go up, and three inches to go down with normal suspension travel, bumps and stuff yeah? When you lift the front of this truck you change that static number to.. lets say 3 for 3" of lift. You've now changed the suspension travel from 0" of upward travel, and 6" of downward travel. Bumps suck, that's why I didn't lift my second WD21. Mind you, this was with Rancho control arms and Sway Away torsion bars, not cheap @!*%! I'm going to agree with Adam in that you should buy NEW parts. Used parts always cause a headache. And sometimes don't even come with that one piece of hardware that would have been the install a 30 minute ordeal, instead of a three hour problem. BTDT! Springs seem simple, but how old are they? What abuse have they been through? "But I read they'd lift the truck!" They might be old tired and saggy just like your current springs.
Seeing a picture of your truck, I highly recommend removing those fender flares and tackling that rust right now, I see some peeking out of that front one.
Neat truck though, what trim is it? SE options that I see are the seats and sunroof, but it has the XE wheels.
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You picked the wrong truck for bolt-on's kid.
Edit: Just for some useful information, sorry.
You need to look out for rust, as I'm sure you know. Rust is everywhere. It's especially bad under the rear seats.
Not many lifting options other than longer springs in the rear and long shocks, can't do much (nothing) with the front end because it's IFS. But it's highly recommended that you get strong steering components if you're going to be doing much wheelin. An Idler brace at the bare minimum.
The stock three liter is a gutless POS. Especially with big tires. But honestly, the two Pathfinder's I've had were just fine with their 3.0 on 31's. The 3.3 is a godsend for 33's, 10/10 do recommend.
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There's a Jiffy Lube near my place that put the wrong oil filter on a Corvette, which blew it off a few blocks away and hosed the motor.
They never did my vg30 powered Pathfinder wrong though! I hate that filter location.
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If the speakers worked before, and they don't now, then something is up with your new deck or install. The factory amps (yes there are two) are accessible from the rear through the removable panel on the passenger side that you would use to change the bulbs. There is one amp for the front four speakers, and one amp for the rear four speakers. What I did was use jumper wires on these plugs to bypass my amps. It disables the tweeters as the amps have a builtin crossover but no direct wiring from deck to tweeter.
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Pretty sure it's possible to take the fan out by just unbolting the fan too. It slips out through the top even with the upper shroud piece in place.
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Look in to Experimental Engineering headers, you'll need to have a Y pipe custom made at an exhaust shop, but it's totally worth it.
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It sounds like a bad vss to me. It may be telling the ecu that you're spinning the tires and that is what throws it into the "stuck in 3rd gear" limp mode.
Precisely this. Two sensors are telling the ECU different things so it goes in to limp mode and sticks 3rd gear.
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Your target RPM should be closer to 750.
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The Moog parts will be an improvement over what you have now, which is worn out junk. The pitman arm should not need to be replaced. And as long as the AC stuff is compatible with the factory parts, the Moog parts will fit just the same.
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The pans are usually stuck on these motors pretty well. It seals at both the front and rear main seals with lots more glue than around the sides.
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If you wanted all heavy duty components you should have went with the Calmini steering kit.
I've heard good things about the Moog brand stuff.
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And Adam corrected my correction outside of the forum. Xterra's and two wheel drive Pathfinders share the same gear ratios 2-OD.
WD22:
1st 2.785
2nd 1.545
3rd 1.00
OD 0.694
4WD WD21:
1st 3.027
2nd 1.619
3rd 1.00
OD 0.694
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Only first gear is different.
FTFY.
Edit: And yes, I do believe that the Asmoil synthetic ATF is just a bit TOO viscous for these transmission.
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MrJim, you still should have tried to see if you could file a claim. An insurance claim might have been a good way to make the police do actual police work. I was in an accident with my mothers vehicle while I still had my intermediate license, I was not listed as a driver on the record but they still took care of us.
With our knowledge of the automatic transmission being common fail points, I wonder if it's only five speed trucks being picked off?
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I'd buy a new truck before having to remove and install a front diff in one of these things again.
Edit: This post not meant to discourage you in any way, but it such a bear!
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ABS light
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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This is definitely not a thing. Just coincidence. Source: I installed LEDs in my tail lights two weeks ago and my cruise/ABS still work fine.
Check in to the FSM on testing procedures. I'm sure a speed sensor has failed. It's a fairly primitive system so should be easy to diagnose. It's one hydraulic unit around the B pillar on the frame, and then the sensors on the wheels.