silverton
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Posts posted by silverton
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Now that you mention that, I'm certain it's the O2 sensor. It doesn't really start doing its thing until the truck is warmed up, and that explains why when you go full throttle you get more power because then the ECU defaults to a "throw all the fuel at it" map.
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my thoughts are air filter, O2 sensor, and distributor optics
air filter is easy.
O2 sensor can be bad enough to make the truck run like @!*%, but not bad enough to trigger a CEL. Also, relatively easy. Mode 4 or 5 is the test for the O2 sensor, but I've had one test just barely in their "good" range, replaced it anyway and it made the lights blink like they were on uppers instead of the downers from the old one. Made the truck run better too.
distributor optics are annoying. the best way is to swap a known good distributor in the truck but you have to take note of where it's pointing else you risk throwing the timing out and then it just wont run at all. If you replace it with the distributor in place just be careful not to bend the plate with all the notiches in it. 360 little ones and 6 big ones, be careful with this piece! the optics (like a cd rom laser) are right underneath it. It's essentially the cam position sensor.
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Did you enter mode 4 after seeing it flash 55 in mode 3? That resets the system.
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the remote I got with my truck doesn't work either. but the alarm still sets the manual way by locking the truck from the inside.
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If you do decide to swap to a VG33, keep your VG30 cams and put them in the VG33, more ponies! Even with my truck having 33's I have a friend with a factory five speed on 31's and he said "holy @!*% this thing is quick". Makes enough torques to bend trailing arms on flat ground. Ask me how I know, hah!
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Nice, a digital manual for the 93! Good score. Here's a link for a bunch of other FSM's.
Here you can click Nissan, Infiniti, or Datsun links
http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/use-nicoclub-coms-factory-service-manual-database.html
Here's the Nissan specific link direct
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I wonder.... if the foglight relay is faulty, could it backfeed power to the headlights? It would have to fail just right, but it could.
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What do you mean by you couldn't see oil through the oil fill hole? Things should be shiny as in have a coating, but it shouldn't be pooled or submerged. If you run the engine with that cap off you should end up with some splatter through the hole as the cams and rockers throw it around though.
Dipstick level was correct and read full?
I don't think this is an internal problem. If something happened to the timing it could cause the engine to spin at a low enough rpm to trigger the light, but as long as it didn't stay on while driving that's okay. This could also be the time that the pressure sensor wire decided to finally just ground itself somewhere triggering the light falsely. Which is a common problem.
Also, if the pan was so sludged up that it blocked the oil pickup tube, you wouldn't have been able to put 4 quarts in without over filling it!
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I just don't understand the novelty of a lifted truck, especially a Pathfinder. Worst idea ever!
If you want easy peasy, any VG30E will bolt in. If you want some moderate work you can put a VG33 in from a newer Pathfinder or Xterra, it bolts in but there are some extras to the swap. There is a guy I know that sells adapters so you can retain your VG30 accessory locations if you do decide to do a swap.
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That is the relay for the foglights, and the clicking means it's being energized. Unplug the relay and see if your problem persists.
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The fan should make a lot of noise on a cold start, but if it sounds like you have a hurricane in your engine bay while driving around then it's probably stuck on. I've had two fan clutches fail stuck, and it's a real drain on power and mpg's
I have heard of the bolt through the fan clutch but I'd only do that in a pinch, generally if you're able to keep moving you don't need a fan.
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You can test for an electrical drain by disconnecting your negative terminal, and probing the post and the clamp with a voltage meter.
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Holy! With that must rust colored junk in the radiator I'd just opt to replace it! It'll make the whole cooling system much more efficient.
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So with the headlight switch OFF, the headlights remain ON? Are the markers on as well?
And just to dig deeper. The headlights remain on through each of the three positions of the headlight switch?
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I think 43 and 51 are related. replace the knock sensor (or plug it in) and see if 51 persists.
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There are no valves in the heater core. Coolant is always running through them. Always. Yes, even when your stick is on full cold!
I've done this on several different vehicles and I've always done in the same way. T in the inlet heater hose (that's the top one on pathfinders). Drain radiator. Connect hose to T and turn it on. Wait for water to come out the coolant cap neck. Start engine and wait. It'll be dirty, and then it'll get clear, and then dirty again, and then clear. Done. I even like to give the throttle a bump here and there to expedite the process, it doesn't take long as the coolant system is only a couple gallons.
They have you T in the inlet hose on the heater core so the hose water hits the heater core first. The water pump is directing flow and there is a bypass around the thermostat (there has to be), but it will eventually open partially and allow more dirt flow, that's why it gets dirty again!
If it doesn't stay clean when you put coolant/h20 in, then you have other issues. More than likely the water pump or the radiator being ran with plain water for too long, only fixing is replacement. Hopefully the flush sorts you out.
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Yes, there is a tensioner and it's very easy to adjust.
See if this video helps you. It's for a front wheel drive car, but the engine should be the same, just turned sideways.
If that doesn't fix it, then the squealing is probably coming from the power steering pump. That's a separate belt you can only get to from the bottom and it adjusts separately, without a separate tensioner because it's the only thing on that belt.
Belt systems are generally different from transverse and longitudinal engines, even if it is the same engine.
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What are you trying to accomplish with the lift?
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If the engines are the same, yes.
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I'm sure the motor mounts won't be too happy without the triangulating mount, if you just need to make sure it doesn't knock, go for it, I wouldn't rev it too hard but it's not going anywhere.
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I think when I ended up doing the alignment myself it ended up being a few washers. Looks like you need inches of spacer to get that even close.
My truck missing a bolt and the other being loose doesn't look near as bad as your truck. You need to get those arms exchanged, they can't be for a WD21.
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Something isn't right, because the landing pad for the bump stop isn't anywhere near where it's supposed to be. in fact it misses it completely.
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Just hit it with a hammer.
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Holy @!*%! My truck looked like that once with some Rancho UCA's.
But that was from Firestone not using longer bolts when they did my alignment, so I lost one of the UCA bolts on the trail.
Where'd it go???
I was here:
Good times!
Anyway dude, if everything is bolted on right, something is bent, it looks like you need INCHES of shims to bring that up to 0 camber. You'll be popular with the drifter kids though, so there's that!
Just to add in here. This day is the reason why I will no longer lift a Pathfinder. Dying isn't worth it.
Air pocket?
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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I believe if the charcoal canister is not allowing vapors to pass through that it could create a gas bubble in the tank. How many gallons are you putting in? When Mine is on E I get between 17 and 18.5 gallons in, even though it's reportedly a 21 gallon tank. The needle in the cluster does read full for me afterwards though.