silverton
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Posts posted by silverton
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Silly Heeper. Always listen to your spotter! Even if it feels wrong, they can see better than you.
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Not the classiest of installs, but it works for me. I normally have it mounted to the back of the center console, but my truck was broken in to and they stole my radio along with the little screw things that hold it to the bracket.
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That was actually a very good jump. It's the height that kills the components, not the distance.
And that jump was clearly for distance and not height. Hell, I'd jump my Impreza off that! haha.
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could you post a picture of how yours is set up? (how it looks between the seat)
I'll take a picture later. Out of sight out of mind really. I forget it's even there most of the time, aside from having a 4 foot lightning rod on the tire carrier...
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I didn't know everyone gets a 5% discount. Might as well just take 5% of all the prices then.
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You still have to enter the discount code in the "how did you hear about us" box, but the codes are easily searched out on the interwebs. In the emails you get after buying something they even encourage you to share the code with family and friends.
Now if the forum discount was 10-15% I'd be impressed. But as you said, they do still have to make money and their prices are usually the cheapest anywhere.
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That was actually kind of cool. MrJim has a similar video on YouTube. Look up "air nissan" or something like that and it should be one of the first results.
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On top of the customer service, low prices and NPORA discount as well?
LOL They have to make some $ to stay in business...
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It's the same 5% as anyone who buys from them gets, so it's really not THAT special.
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Mine is "mounted" between the passenger seat and the center console.
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Anybody know why my hi beams won't work, 1991 pathfinder 2 wheel drive? when i switch to high beams it just goes completely dark at night.
The obvious is that you should have started your own thread.
The other obvious thing is to make sure that the bulbs are good.
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That two tone terrano pulling the rig out is one of our New Zealand regulars.
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^^^ Beat me to it. Was going to say the exact same thing.
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Maybe in 20 years we'll be running around the wood in them.
In 20 years I hope to still have my current Pathfinder.
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If you are already buying the wires, cap and rotor, the extra shipping cost to include plugs must be negligible or near the $1.77 difference.
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It could also be that the spark plugs were not in one of the warehouses where the other parts were, so full shipping would need to be paid instead of just additional weight in a box already going out.
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You've never heard of the inhibitor relay?
Sits next to the battery. Very common with a no crank issue. Give it a smack while someone else holds the key in the crank position(make sure it's out of gear first). If she starts, you got a bad relay.
I've heard of the relay itself, just didn't know they were notorious for failing.
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Your profile picture is very tiny. Can't really tell what I'm looking at.
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what part of the rules did i mess up? ive been a member for 5 months and have over 100 post and the trucks in the snow theme...
Just like in the first nomination thread, the resolution of your picture was too high.
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If you were more mechanically apt, I was going to recommend you take the starter apart. Sometimes the starter is built-up with gunk on the inside. A good cleaning will restore the starter.
The other common issue with D21/WD21 is the "starter" relay. For whatever reason, Nissan likes to call it the "interlock" or "inhibitor" relay. Those are notorious for going bad.
My '95 had a failed "interlock" relay which stuck in the "closed" position. The engine kept cranking the starter, and the only way to stop this was to either pull the relay out or disconnect the battery. But the most common failure of this relay is it not "closing" when you crank the ignition switch.
Never heard of that.
I'd check the connection at the starter, and if that's good, replace the starter. Sounds to me like the solenoid has gone tits up.
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I stand corrected! A quick look at the FSM and it appears the Y-pipe is later on down the stream in to a resonator.
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I let mine sit for months at a time, and every time it fires without a hiccup.
That's something that can't be said for everything.
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Good luck even making it to a mud hole
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Yeah, those are diggin tires!
a WD21 on 33's worth nightmare to be honest.
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If it is dripping on the exhaust manifolds, it is probably the valve cover gaskets. Simply going in and tightening the philip head screws is a good idea. The other main culprits are the front and rear main seals, but they aren't anywhere near the exhaust manifolds.
Time to use some degreaser and maybe some judicious use of a pressure washer. Just clean the areas you suspect and it will become evident eventually.
How many miles on Bertha?
BTW, welcome to NPORA.
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I could be mistaken but I'm fairly certain that the Y-pipe runs under where the engine and transmission mate, so if the rear main was leaking...
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There are a few places where these engines could leak oil on to the exhaust.
It could just be the valve cover gaskets on the heads, which can happen they do go bad.
Or it could be the rear main seal which is farther down and much harder to replace as the transmission needs to be separated from the engine.
Hard to say if the axle and ABS light are connected, there should be a procedure for checking ABS codes in the FSM which is linked in a pinned post in the garage section.
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For the record, I think projector's are the devil.
I high beam flash everyone that I think has their headlights aimed incorrectly, and that's up to and including people with projectors who aren't on the same level pavement as me. But only because the headlights from a halogen equipped car at the same point does not appear to have two mini representations of the sun at the front of their vehicle.
My 2001 Impreza with standard OEM halogen headlights has the exact same sharp cut, without the need of projectors.
cb radio install location!
in 90-95 WD21 Pathfinders
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Clean it? I just drive it to the mall and back, how did it get dirty??